which carb and intake
01-27-2011, 12:29 PM
#1
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Car: 1984 Camaro z28
Engine: 350 small block
Transmission: 350 Turbo
which carb and intake
thinking about leaving my 86 camaro original and just do a few unexpensive ungrades such as air,carb,intake, and maybe more but i was wondering what would you guess suggest for carb and intake also im on a budget
not looking for a lot of power seeing that 305s cant production much hp especially on a budget just looking for something better then the factory carb and intake
not looking for a lot of power seeing that 305s cant production much hp especially on a budget just looking for something better then the factory carb and intake
Last edited by jaymoung; 01-27-2011 at 12:43 PM.
01-27-2011, 12:41 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: which carb and intake
The factory carb and intake aren't what holds back a stock engine.
01-27-2011, 12:44 PM
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Car: 1984 Camaro z28
Engine: 350 small block
Transmission: 350 Turbo
Re: which carb and intake
i didnt say i was doing the upgrade to get more power then what the stock is giving
01-27-2011, 12:51 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: which carb and intake
Then what's your idea of "something better"?
01-27-2011, 02:38 PM
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: which carb and intake
You really can't beat the stock carb setup. The quads can feed alot of power when needed, and will save alot on mileage when not. There's not an aftermarket carb that performs better (until you gte up to some monster of a motor).
IF you're hellbent on the idea, you'll need a new distributor as well - can't run a computer controlled distributor without a cc carb and visa versa. You'll also need a method of locking the torque converter and a TV geomtery corrector for the linkage (if an automatic). So - just to change carbs, you're looking at the cost of a carb, plus $100 to lock TC, plus $125 for a new distributor, plus $20 for a TV corrector. And now, you don't pass emissions.
If your looking for some extra seat-of-the-pants feel, rear gears would be the easiest cheapest bang for the buck. Even a small change from 2.73 to 3.08 makes alot of difference (I did this swap in my 1990 305 TBI car and could really tell a major improvement). If you are currently 2.73 peg leg, and you swapped in a complete 4th gen rear for $250 with 3.42's, you'd really feel alot of difference (but would sacrifice some mileage). Oh - FYI on a 4th gen rear - You'd need to have 16" wheels to swap in a 1998+ rear that has the LS1 rear discs - they won't fit under the 15" wheel.
Another option would be headers - opening up the exhaust can have better effects as well.
IF you're hellbent on the idea, you'll need a new distributor as well - can't run a computer controlled distributor without a cc carb and visa versa. You'll also need a method of locking the torque converter and a TV geomtery corrector for the linkage (if an automatic). So - just to change carbs, you're looking at the cost of a carb, plus $100 to lock TC, plus $125 for a new distributor, plus $20 for a TV corrector. And now, you don't pass emissions.
If your looking for some extra seat-of-the-pants feel, rear gears would be the easiest cheapest bang for the buck. Even a small change from 2.73 to 3.08 makes alot of difference (I did this swap in my 1990 305 TBI car and could really tell a major improvement). If you are currently 2.73 peg leg, and you swapped in a complete 4th gen rear for $250 with 3.42's, you'd really feel alot of difference (but would sacrifice some mileage). Oh - FYI on a 4th gen rear - You'd need to have 16" wheels to swap in a 1998+ rear that has the LS1 rear discs - they won't fit under the 15" wheel.
Another option would be headers - opening up the exhaust can have better effects as well.
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