5SpeedGTA

Hey, I've run into some trouble. I had a crack in my radiator and decided to replace the whole thing. I thought, why not go bigger and better, right? So it was suggest to get an aluminum one, and a link to eBay was given to me and I was told that that radiator would work. So I went ahead and purchased it. I now know I should of done more research. Here's my problem(s):

There is a hose up by the overflow hose. Its bigger than the overflow, yet smaller than the upper and lower hoses. Also, above the lower hose, there is a connector or some sorts plugged into the radiator. Whats up with that?

The new radiator doesn't have a inlet for the unknown hose, and no place for any connectors.

From what I've gathered at another forum is, that the hose is most likely from the heater core. And if I were to unplug the connecter, nothing happens.

The radiator in the car doesn't leak a lot, but it leaks, and it doesn't overheat. What can I do the put the aluminum radiator in and have it work like nothing has changed? Please help. Thank you in advance.

92 zzz28

Its tough to say what you will need to do to install this radiator. First, what are its dimensions? If you have the time and are willing, pull the old radiator and test fit the new one.

Is it an aftermarket aluminum? Can you post a picture of it?

I think the hose you described as being below the overflow is a heat return hose. The connector is for a low coolant light which your car probably doesn't have. The replacment rad. in my 92 had a connector in about that location, not used.

There are just so many different radiators out there, it is very hard to say whether or not it will fit with the limited descrpition you gave. Either post some pics of it, or pull the old one and test fit it.

GOod luck...

5SpeedGTA

Yes, my car does have the coolant light. I guess my sig didn't work. Its an 88 GTA, I got the system check thing so it'll beep at me whenever somethings wrong. (sidenote - it beeps F LAMP at me all the time... dunno why, all the lights work)

I tried posting pics, but the page I had them hosted wouldn't allow it. I can link you to the eBay page I bought it off of though

eBay Radiator

Thanks again.

92 zzz28

You will need to do some modifications to make that radiator fit. I have a Griffin unit with the same specs. I had to cut some on the lower support to clear the larger tanks and the increased thickness. I also choose to make a upper hold down bracket rather than try to make the one on the car fit. I am also using aftermarket fans, so that was not problem for me.

The best thing you can do is search around and find some threads that others posted on installing the universal type radiators. One person posted a link to an article that gave step by step instructions and pictures to follow along with. It was a good article, but you should be able to figure it out without it.

Have fun...

Barry85Iroc

The custom-fits are a bit more expensive, but well worth it. They drop right in, just like a factory replacement. No mods necessary. (at least that was my experience with the Be-Cool thaat I bought)

BoDeaN

I just replaced mine with an aluminum Modine radiator for like $120 or so from a local rad shop. That thing dropped right in and plugged right up. My engine is running below 200* with the fan not even working in this Arizona heat. My vote is with the Modine. I wish I could give you a part number, but I must have misplaced my paperwork somewhere. I'm also running a 170* stat though.

Barry85Iroc

The humidity is MUCH higher here, and contributes greatly to the "heat index", which affects cooling. I needed this rad for this climate..........you may not.

92 zzz28

I needed my Griffin to help with the cooling. Before putting it in the temps would climb to 230-240. THat was with a 160* stat and both fans set to come on earlier.

With the Griffin and Spal fan combo the temps never got above 200 with the AC on full, sitting in traffic.

We've got some serious humidity here in S. Fl. too...

ZFORCE

92 zzz28:

Was the Griffin a direct bolt in with no modifications?

tj

92 zzz28

No. I bought the universal radiator because it was very inexpensive, $190 from Summit. The installation was pretty simple though. Little cut here, hammer on that there, no biggie...

Barry85Iroc

I probably should have gotten the universal instead of the custom-fit, but I was so p*ssed that this thing wouldn't run cool, I wanted to drop it in and go. I've been foolin' with this thing for a year trying this and that. The rad did the trick..........FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!

92 zzz28

To tell the truth I wanted the custom fit Be Cool. I was having major cooling troubles and was tight on money. THe Griffin was inexpensive and solved my problems. About the only down side is that there is no return for the heater hose. I just completely eliminated that because I use the heat SOOOO much here in S. Fl.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Worth 3x the cost? Maybe to some people. I was happy to spend a couple nights getting my $180 Griffin to fit.

Here's a step-by-step tech article that I created when I did mine:
http://iroc.fbody.com/rad/rad.html

5SpeedGTA

I'm having trouble here. I need to get the heater hose into the radiator somehow. It seems that the hose goes down to my oil filter area, then comes back up into the radiator. So I dunno about eliminating it. I might just bite this one and get another rad... anyone in central to eastern NJ need a radiator?

EDIT: Duh on my part... I just read the install guide posted. I just blanked on the whole "just add a fitting to the radiator." The radiator is now at a welding shop getting the extra hose fitting put on. I'm gonna spend this weekend getting that sucker in.....

RMK

Jim,

I just looked that radiator up in Summit and they say it's for racing applications only. How is it on the street? What is the difference between a street and racing app radiator?

Thanks

Robert

92 zzz28

I am not Jim but I can respond on the Griffin. I think he and I are both using the same unit, mine is 31 x 19, dual 1" rows. I have had great luck with this rad. and here in S. Fl. it can get pretty warm. The installation was a breeze. I don't know why they say the radiator is designed for racing only because it cools my car very well. I never see temps above 200* anymore.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

The radiator is GREAT on the street. I have a 180 t-stat, with a fan turn-on temp of 195, and a turn-off of 185. Driving, the car stays smack at 182 or 183, and when sitting in traffic, it takes FOREVER for it to get up to 195. Then the fan runs for 45 seconds or maybe a minute and it's back down to 185. This radiator allows me to keep a super tight window on engine temps. I see people with 160 t-stats, and a stock chip that doesn't turn the fans on until 230. That's an 80* fluctuation in temp in stop and go traffic. My car has a 15* fluctuation. What do you think is better for all that metal & gaskets that are expanding & contracting?

Last week at the track, my fans never came on the whole time I was in the staging lanes.