Hi everyone! I thought I'd post some convenient radiator fan switch part numbers for those looking to lower their fan enable temperatures without buying the hypertech sensor. The following part numbers can be found (or ordered) at Advance Auto Parts in the GP Sorensen line. These sensors all have a 3/8"-18 NPT thread with the same connector as what came on our cars (direct plug-and-play swap). FS6 - Closes at 204*-220* F- Retail $21.59 FS4 - Closes at 211*-227* F- Retail $8.69 FS1 - Closes at 222*-238* F- Retail $9.49 FS3 - Closes at 240*-252* F- Who would buy this one?? FS3 is the stock replacement for the switch on a dual-fan equipped car, and FS1 is the stock replacement for the single-fan system. Also, I have found (through personal experience) that these GP Sorensen switches do tend to close very near the beginning of the advertised range..

Check this one out too.
http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=3.138.944

Well, I decided to try one of those out since my crappy Hypertech fan switch decided to break on me today ($40 down the drain). I got the GP-Sorensen FS4 for $8.69. I put in, drove the car to get it up to temp, and at about 230* the fan kicked on (supposed to come on at 227*). I am very satisfied with mine, there was no way I was going to go back to the stock fan switch nor was I buying another Hypertech fan switch. Thanks for posting this!

what one would on my 92 Z28 with duel fans.

FS1 or FS4 or FS6 (FS6 being probably the best one, especially with a 180* thermostat and reprogrammed primary fan) will all turn on lower than the factory setting for the secondary fan..

As soon as I get some free time, I'm going to also look up some switches in borg warner (o'reilly) and wells (autozone) brands... stay tuned..

can anyone tell me where the fan switch is on a 3.1

Is there a switch for 185-200 like the Hypertech/Jet switches?

Just want to know if the FS6 will work on a 3.1 Camaro?

Yes, should work just fine.

v6 camaro has only one fan and its run by the ecm

fan temp is programmed in the prom

Ahhh, that is correct. The Speed Density V6 cars (ECM 1227730) have computer controlled fan. The older MAF (2.8L) ones had a fan switch (as my '88 originally did).

230 wow thats high, mine wont even run that hot, she doesnt go over 180.

yes sir

So if I am having problems with the fan coming on only when the ac is on and when I read the codes, what part should I be looking at for the v6 RS? *(I have replaced the Coolant temp sensor already, I know that the fan is good, and also have a new computer in it too.)
I guess I just havent been able to find a solution and when I saw this thread it sounded like what the problem could have been on my 91 V6

I check the local Advance Auto Parts Store and they don't carry GP-Sorensen parts. I check GP Sorensen web site and I can't find these part numbers

I picked up a stock switch for my 92 for around $9. Now I am kinda regreting not looking these up. I will test mine soon and see if its needed to upgrade it. Sadly my L05 heats up right away.

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I just ordered my FS6 but Advanced is calling it a air pump sensor ,when tit comes in well find out.

Any recommendations on a fan switch for my car? Its the stock dual fan setup and has the 170* stat. She still runs real hot btw due to a broken fan temp switch (primary fan working only) and is causing intermittent starter issues due to the heat. I want to replace the switch today but before I do, I thought I'd ask the experts here first. Thanks in advance guys.

Later,
Phoenix

Hypertech 200-185 fan switch. Works like a charm in my car. Will work great for you too. Summertime at 100° or winter at 30°, it works great in either condition. Works well with any thermostat choice as well.

Sorry for sounding like a broken record on my previous post, I thought I deleted it lol. Thanks for the recommendation Ried. With that switch, my car should run alot cooler. I'd like to upgrade my water pump as well in th near future but thats another story.

Thanks

Phoenix

on the v8 cars is this the switch located on the head in between the spark plugs on the driver side of the car? Thank you

No, thats the engine temp gauge sensor. The fan temp switch is located on the passenger's side head in between the 2 most rear header tubes. The connection almost looks like that of the knock sensor but completey different. Hth.

Phoenix

Just ordered a hypertech switch and can't wait 'til I get it.

I'll post my results on the temps after install it.

Later,

Phoenix

Yesss! My secondary fan now works and my car runs much cooler. It won't even go near 220* and continues running the secondary fan ( key 'on', car off) until the car is cooled down. I choose not to since it'll drain the battery faster unless I have a good enough reason to so. I appreciate the reccomendation guys couldn't of done it with out you.

Later,
Phoenix

Hey, I just put in a Fan switch for my 1991 camaro z28. It is a 195 degree on and 180 off fan switch. The part number is 60600 from summitracing website. My problem is I am experiencing issues such as the engine running poorly and it not idling right at all. After a bit of driving the engine seems gutless. I removed the old themostat sensor, which was located on the driver's side of the engine block to put this new one. It was a green wire that led up to the old thermostat switch. Also my thermostat gauge just pegs out now, when it worked perfectly fine before. Any advice or 2 cents would be great guys. Thanks.

-Ted

Read a few posts up where I asked where the sensor was located. If u replaced one in the block u may have just replaced ur knock sensor with a cooling fan sensor which would explain ur running issues. Doh!

That green wire is not connected to a thermostat switch, it's called the "Coolant Temperature Sending Unit"

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search.

That sensor is for the temperature gauge. When that sensor goes bad, you gauge will max out. Once a new one is installed, the gauge will work properly agian. I learned just like you did. The hard way,,,, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDfATT_qprU . My green wire was cut by the PO.

You may need to verify if there is continuity between the CTS and the cluster gage. You could try spraying carb cleaner, MAF sensor cleaner, or starting fluid into the connector to clean off any contaminates that may be causing a bad connection. When the Temp gauge pegs outs, it usually means that there is no or bad connection.

I see that everyone in this board is either confused or just not certain about 3 similar devices that perform 3 different things.
Im gonna help out with the confusion and name the parts correctly.

1. Coolant Temperature Sending unit - This piece is usually bolted into the driverside cylinderhead. It reads the temperature of the coolant and depending on the temp, its resistance varies which sends a signal to the instrument clusters Temperature gauge. Food for thought, there are 2 different types of this sending unit. They can be identified as one pin or two pin. My 86 IROC-Z uses the 1-pin unit.


2. Coolant Temperature Sensor - It is bolted in the front side of the TPI intake manifold. It's purpose is to read the temperature of the coolant and send that reading to the ECM. Depending on what the "coolant fan turn on" is programmed in the MemCal, it will activate and close the circuit to power up one fan in the years of 87 and up on IROC models, and the single fan of the 86 IROC-Z. I reprogrammed my fan turn on at 180* by using a Moates adapter and reprogramming a blank EPROM with a 87 IROC-Z BIN file to override my 86 IROC-Z 305 BIN. Notice the oval connection.


3. Coolant Fan Switch - This switch is bolted in the passengerside cylinder head. It is designed to "ground" itself at the temperature that is was designed at. Its only purpose is to turn on the secondary fan if the primary ECM controlled fan is not cooling the sytem. Notice that the connection has the exact same connection that the Knock Sensor has.


The best way to identify these parts are by its connecter.

1. Coolant Temp Sending Unit - one male terminal connector
2. Coolant Temp Sensor - Oval connector
3. Turn on fan switch - same connector such as the Knock Sensor

I went back and redid everything I did. So basically I am back to square one. The best way to learn something is the hard way. I am looking forward to switching the cooling fan switch, which is between cylinders 6 and 8 . Thanks so much for your advice. This website really does come in handy!

my coolant temp gauge was acting wacky and I found the wire insulation had chafed bare where it goes around to the back of the engine, grounding out on the engine, a bit of electrical tape fixed it.

Now thats what I call troubleshooting. Good job man.

Yes, but not always. There are temperature switches out there that have a weatherpack connector, usually round. The JET switches I commonly use all have that.

I have everything hooked up properly and the jet switch is kicking the fan on at about two hundred give or take five degrees. I recommend that product if you struggle with the temperature being too hot. You just have to know where your hooking up the sensor and once everything thing is good, you'll be really pleased with the results.

What I posted is all stock in my 86 IROC. I thought about posting your picture that you provided, but I wanted to keep the post as stock as possible. But yes, I agree with you 100%. Good looking out Twin_Turbo.

The PO installed a electric fan in my TA but it is wired to the ignition,I would like it to turn on/off. I cant seem to locate where to install a fan switch.

Here is a pic of the pass side head,I have a carbed '75 350 block...


My driver side head does not have a sensor on it. But my radiator looks like it has one..?



I was also thinking about getting THIS to turn the fan on/off,any thoughts?

The onw on the passengerside head may very well be the fan temp switch. The one in the radiator looks like a switch too because it has the male terminal.

the one in the rad is a low coolant switch, the one in the head could be a switch or a sender, ohm it cold and hot to see if it switches to ground when hot, if so it's a switch

well i changed my thermostat to a 160* cuz it would crazy overheat...its really hott over here and when i have the a/c on it over heats to about 230 and sometimes stays there and sometimes gets even hotter!! the days over here have been really hot! and i want my car to not get hotter than 220 and i would be happy..so wat do u guys suggest i should do???

Any idea where the low coolant switch on the radiator hooks to and what color wire it is? The PO has it unhooked and I am not sure that he didn't just clip the wire, I can't seem to find any wires loose in the engine bay though. Thanks for your help.

Unless you've got a Berlinetta or a Trans Am with the digital dash, your car didn't come with a low coolant light. However, every aftermarket radiator seems to come with the tab on the radiator tank.

For that matter I can't even say for sure that both the Berlinetta or digital dash T/A had the sensor. But the vast majority of 82-92 Fbodies don't.

Thanks for the information Drew, one less issue to worry about.

I have a question. My car has a swapped 327 in it. Carborated. No longer using ECM. The PO has the fan hooked up directly to the fuse box so it is running constantly. What do I do to make it work normal. On the fan I see to wires. One ground and one hot. I believe I still have my fan relay. Little black box with cut orange wire??

You have to cross a jumper wire (8 gauge) from the positive pole to the negative pole.

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Just how the hell do you post a new damn thread? i cant figure it out for the life of me.

When you click on the cooling forum, before you scroll down to check out threads, look over on the far left at the top. See that little red and blue thing that says new thread? Click on it

I'm using an adjustable probe style switch for my Mark VIII fan, they are far more accurate and reliable than that factory ones and they take the temperature reading on the radiator, my engine rarely goes above 200.
I'm running two of them on my 04 Doge Ram hemi for the same fan one for the low speed and one for the high for 3 year now.
The biggest problem is getting the probe to fit tight on the radiator, the space between the fins is too large and the probe becomes loose, i had to secure it with ss wire and it seems to work good now, you can have the fan turn on at any temperature you want

Anyone make this?
On @ 176°F/Off @ 166°F
other than the 40$ Hypertech?