five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Not only the link, but the wire after the link going up to the fan relay - fried to a crisp.

The motor resistance is about a needle's width off zero, compared to the meter leads tied together. In other words, basically no resistance. However, there was no short to case, for what that's worth. The fan motor will run when wired directly, but the 16 gage jumper wires I was using got hot pretty quick.

My search for fan motor resistance was basically futile, with this https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=313736 providing about the only clue: There Vader said "A few ohms is about right. Anything over 10 ohms indicates a continuity (wiring) problem." Well, I've basically got no ohms.

Before I spend the bucks for a new motor, I wanted to verify that I should get some more of a resistance indication, and lacking it could explain why the link fried.

Related to the topic, when I replace the now-open fuseable link, would it be acceptable to put a self-resetting circuit breaker in its place?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

One other tidbit of information, which may or may not be relevant. When I got the donor car in 1999, we started the engine and let it run for a bit. It overheated because the fan didn't come on. Later, I discovered the lower radiator support had been tweaked in the accident that made it a donor car, which bound up the fan. When I put the fan in the driver car, it was free to turn and has worked fine - until this past Friday.

If that incident of being powered up without being able to turn did some damage to the motor, it certainly took enough time to exhibit itself.

90Formula-X-F

With the use of OHM's law I come up with 4.5 Ohm's. A 12 volt ciruit drawing 30 amps of energy with 4 Ohm's resistance would be considered a bad motor. so 4.5 ohms resistance sould be about max.

Check what scale the meter is on for the resistance check. If the wires getting Hot you have resistance ( Or actually LACK OF ). Can't check it plugged in either. A proper test would be to check amperage draw but that motor would probley burn out the fuse of a hand held instantly.

BTW : The lower the number, the closer to ground and the hotter the wire gets. But too high a number can create the same results too because of circuit design.

But an open circuit ( No Reading )will do nothimng but over heat your car for lack of fan action.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I rechecked it with a digital. It read 0.3 ohm terminal-to-terminal.

I also rechecked terminal to case, and got the same resistance.

I need a new motor. Factory Air 35656, $23.97 at Advance Auto ($35.99 at Checker - both are partsamerica.com affiliates - go figure).

I guess I'll do the circuit breaker as well.

90Formula-X-F

Mistake I think in calculations.... Used an adding machine instead of my head and it comes up to .45 Ohms . So I'd change it anyway because that figure of .30 is what appers to be what would create a a 60 amp draw. Now this is only mathmatical calculations when you have no physical results. I.E. too lazy to go out and do one of my fans... 8-)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The new motor resistance is 0.8 ohm. Open from either terminal to case. Assuming a max of 15 volts alternator output, that's 18.75 amps.

Now, to chase down that code 34 "Vacuum Sensor circuit error"...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, the code 34 was "related". When the fan power wire fried, it melted the hard plastic line that goes through the harness over to the vacuum sensor. Now I have an idea when the fan failed...