cam92rs

ok starting with the radiator,a while back a crack formed,great i know,well,stop leak was added,(i know not good)didnt work,i finally got a new radiator,well not new,but it was in my buddies car,now,where the heater core on my car is,the hose that goes to the radiator is blocked off,there is no leaks and the cap is good along with the 180 t-stat i just installed,name some problems to as why my car goes from 190 to 260 then to 220 then to 260.get the picture?its got coolant,its flowing,its clean,should i un-by-pass the by-pass on the radiator for the heater core?

next problem,my car starts when it wants to it seems,its the starter or selonoid,its gotta be,or the ignition,i will go out to start it,somtimes it starts,somtimes nothing,nothing at all,i will wait 10 mins or so,and boom,fires right up.hmm???whats up with that.i jumped the starter with a screw driver,didnt start but i got some sparks.lol

help me out here please

Green89IROC305

its the starter replace it. next time it gives you nothing try hitting the starter with something like a wrench and if it starts after that its the starter.

jstrdn90rs

Two questions to help us out...does the car actually overheat..if you run it with the cap off does it bubble out of the radiator?..is it burbing into the overflow tank when it hits 260?.
Next question..when you turn on the key ..did you notice if your security light went off after a few seconds?when it wont start?check it out and come back.let us know.

cam92rs

i looked for all of that,yes the engine is over heating.i agree with him when he says its the starter,its not the security system,although 1 time i was driving down the road and the car shut off on me,no brake lights,no nothing.there is a major electrical problem with my car,somtimes i turn the brights on,then i turn them off and my headlights go out.not fun on backroads,lol.i heard of sombody saying replace somthing on the bottom of the water pump?that sound right?i never looked at it,although it is working.i figure its just a deadspot in the starter,i tried hitting it,nothing,just wait a lil while and bam she fires up.hmm,thats what i thought,lol.i got a radiator from a 1984 berlinetta,brass sides.it seems to hold alot more antifreeze then my origonal 1,it had a looked to be new thermostat in it,but i changed it anyways.to a 180 instead of a 195.will this affect anything?also the heater was bypassed but i changed that and hooked it all back up,the cap is tight also,no leaks.

jstrdn90rs

It seems this is a common problem with the 305 TBI cars,has far as the overheating issues.I replied to a similar complaint the guy replaced everything and still overheated.I would say its possible that you might have a blown head gasket.Usually a blown head gasket will make the car overheat very quickly,or I have seen a warped intake do that as well.I also know that if theres sludge build up at the rear of the block and blocking the oil from getting down to the oil pan it will overheat.I had that problem on my truck..

as far the electrical problem I would start at the battery and check the positive and negative cables ...move both ends where they contact the battery and the other ends..one on the engine itself and the other at the starter.If you completely lost power and sometimes the car starts I would say you have a poor connection somewhere.

cam92rs

now im really confused,my car hasnt ran for 2 days now,and the security light is staying on,wtf did i do to her?i didnt mess with anything,could it be the key.or is it the wires under the dash.i think i got the radiator under control but wont nkow till i get the ignition working again.some help is greatly appreciated

Anthony

cam92rs

i just ran the code,i got a flash pause flash flash,isnt that a code 12?i did it multiple times,i got a flash off flash,then the check engine light stayed on.??whats that?

jstrdn90rs

The security light is on cause either the chip on the key is worn or the wires connected to the ignition cylinder or the cylinder itself is worn.
Code 12 could be nothing or you have lost a reference signal to the computer from the dizzy.

cam92rs

i found out you cant hotwire these cars,damn VATS got me again.hooked up a switch to the starter(gangsta hotwiring),im guessing the fuel pump dont turn on?after that,i turned the key,and yea she turned on with the key.my dumbass turned it back off tho,i still got an hour before i need to go anywhere anyway.im hoping its the key and not the switch or anything,thats a PITA

jstrdn90rs

In the tech articles ,theres info to by-pass the VATS system,personally I replaced my cylinder/key with a new VATS one and made me a by-pass just in case something like this happens.If you make a by-pass you can purchase a regular cylinder/key but just dont have the security of your car not being gone in the morning.Its actually easy to do if you have some math/soldering skills.

85T/A

hey dude i know its very minor but with your cooling it sounded to me as though your thermostat is sticking it did the same exact thing to me and i have a brand new radiater

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

That's kind of what I was thinking...however he said he put a new radiator and thermostat in it. The other thing is that maybe the water pump isn't working as advertised though I've never seen one work quite the way his is.

As for the electrical problem, have you checked how tight your connections are at the battery? If one of them is loose then sometimes the car will just do nothing. Scared me one night at work when that happened. Other than that, you definitely have a line either lose, or grounding out somewhere in your dash/engine compartment. Your best bet is to get the Factory wireing diagram and just start shooting wires. I'd start with your starter/starter wires, both the ones from the battery (might even be loose on your starter), and the ones that run from the starter up to the ignition. Your headlights...that is difinitely a ground out somewhere. My dads car had that, it took the dealership six days to locate it. Man were they mad! lol Best of luck to you!

midniteplowboyy

iTrader: (1)

Your heater core lines, how are they ran? One from the manifold, one to the radiator? If so take your plugged heater hose and return it into the top of the water pump, if you dont have a port on your radiator. That way there is hot water circulating past the thermostat to open it. HTH

bygblok

iTrader: (3)

the VATS on your car doesn't kill anything but the starter. You can use a remote starter switch to the solenoid and it will still start. When I worked for Chevrolet thats how I got cars inside that had security problems in the old days. Only the newer systems kill the fuel as well. Kills pump, injector pulse etc. You CAN make it run to get in the shop with spray carb or injector cleaner though(another shop tool for moving an otherwise dead car)

cam92rs

got er running,it was the key,although now there is hesitation when i hit the ignition.i will turn it and it will take a little longer to get the power to the starter(well you know what i mean),i got the heater core connected again and she runs like a champ,goes only a mm past the first notch on the guage,im pretty happy,thanks all you guys that helped,now all i have to do is put the bottom of the dash backtogether.lol

Anthony

atvance

CAM,

In case you run into the problem that you've been having again, like you shut it off, and it doesn't start anymore for X minutes... Listen to my suggestion.

I replaced my started, therm, etc, to try and resolve this same problem...

Would run fine, but after it was shut off, RANDOMLY it just wouldn't start. I really suspected the therm as maybe it was too hot, and just wouldn't start until cool, but sometimes it was 5 minutes, sometimes it was 4 hours, etc.

After a while I suspected the starter I installed, after waiting 2 hours trying to start the car with nothing, I snuck under her, reached to the starter and power cable going to her, and JIGGLED, ran back up and turned the KEY...

GROWL!

She started.

When I replaced my started months ago, the cable connections were rusted and not very good, but I slapped em on anyways. I knew there was a connection problem there, and, when I think about it, the heat from the engine could have interferred or caused some type of problem with the wires, they are close to the headers...

Anyways, if you have the problem, take the wires off, clean them GOOD, or replace them all together, by your starter. I would bet money that is your problem.

How much MONEY? A few bucks.

Regards.