DIY Starting Point
#1
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.27
DIY Starting Point
Hello all, I am about to get into some prom programming for my IROC very soon. As always, this newbie has a couple of questions / confirmations that I would like to get some feedback.
A little about my car: 1988 IROC Automatic. It was a 350, but I am replacing it with a 383 stroker (completely forged internals). Alum Dart Pro 1 heads. The cam is flat tappet (sadly the short block was not roller). Adv Duration 262/270, Lift .464/.470. A new 2500 stall TC will also be installed. I have removed both the EGR and AIR. It also has new 30# fuel injectors with a FIRST TPI intake. I will continue to use my 165 ECM.
I will be making the easy BIN changes that I know I will need:
- No EGR,
- Disable VATS
- Upped the Fuel Injector size + Flow Rates
- Disable AIR
Now, on to my couple questions.
1) ARAP vs APYP. I know ARAP = auto and APYP = manual. I did a BIN comparison between the 2 and noticed there are a handful of differences in the constants + tables. So, minus the fact that I would have to move over the automatic specific values to the APYP (i.e. TC values), which BIN would be the better stating point for my setup?
2) Will the fuel maps be sufficient to run my car's setup for initial engine break-in and normal day to day driving before I can get the hang of making the table / fuel map changes?
3) Anything else I should be concerned with or pay attention before I start driving it regularly?
I really appreciate any feedback and that is provided!!! Thanks a bunch guys!
A little about my car: 1988 IROC Automatic. It was a 350, but I am replacing it with a 383 stroker (completely forged internals). Alum Dart Pro 1 heads. The cam is flat tappet (sadly the short block was not roller). Adv Duration 262/270, Lift .464/.470. A new 2500 stall TC will also be installed. I have removed both the EGR and AIR. It also has new 30# fuel injectors with a FIRST TPI intake. I will continue to use my 165 ECM.
I will be making the easy BIN changes that I know I will need:
- No EGR,
- Disable VATS
- Upped the Fuel Injector size + Flow Rates
- Disable AIR
Now, on to my couple questions.
1) ARAP vs APYP. I know ARAP = auto and APYP = manual. I did a BIN comparison between the 2 and noticed there are a handful of differences in the constants + tables. So, minus the fact that I would have to move over the automatic specific values to the APYP (i.e. TC values), which BIN would be the better stating point for my setup?
2) Will the fuel maps be sufficient to run my car's setup for initial engine break-in and normal day to day driving before I can get the hang of making the table / fuel map changes?
3) Anything else I should be concerned with or pay attention before I start driving it regularly?
I really appreciate any feedback and that is provided!!! Thanks a bunch guys!
#2
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Re: DIY Starting Point
Hey marmiej,
I would start by using the ARAP bin but with modifications to it first.
All the things you mentioned (no egr, disable vats, up FI size, disable air) are good but i'd also add that you should match your timing advance on the distributor to your base timing constant in the BIN.
The reason why I say ARAP is because that was in aluminum headed corvettes, and they could run more timing than an iron headed SBC (you have aluminum heads now so that is why I think this is probably best). Also, your car is automatic so this is another reason. Fuel can always be altered "as you go", so the best thing is to make sure all your settings are "good" (adjust the things you mentioned so it doesn't throw any codes) and then start from there with the fuel. I'm not an expert on timing but I know ARAP was ran on corvettes with aluminum heads on a 350 SBC.
You have a MAF so the fuel is constantly being altered but you just need to get BLM's right on 128 or as close as possible (I like to get them in between the 124-128 range, which means it's just slightly rich which is better than slightly lean IMO cuz it's easier to change spark plugs than change a piston lol).
Also, I'm not sure if you know about what BIN you will be using, but I recommend 6E for its simplicity and flexibility. I know you can use the 32 code (86) and the 32B (87-88, which is what you currently have in your car) but the 6E has alot more info on here and to me is alot easier to tune. BUT you can do it however you like, it's your choice.
So if you DO indeed choose 6E, make sure your BIN matches your XDF (mask) file, and also your ADS (datalogging) file must be the 6E version as well to datalog with the 6E mask. They basically all have to match. This same logic applies to 32 and 32b bins and whatever else is out there.
Hope this helps
-Marc
I would start by using the ARAP bin but with modifications to it first.
All the things you mentioned (no egr, disable vats, up FI size, disable air) are good but i'd also add that you should match your timing advance on the distributor to your base timing constant in the BIN.
The reason why I say ARAP is because that was in aluminum headed corvettes, and they could run more timing than an iron headed SBC (you have aluminum heads now so that is why I think this is probably best). Also, your car is automatic so this is another reason. Fuel can always be altered "as you go", so the best thing is to make sure all your settings are "good" (adjust the things you mentioned so it doesn't throw any codes) and then start from there with the fuel. I'm not an expert on timing but I know ARAP was ran on corvettes with aluminum heads on a 350 SBC.
You have a MAF so the fuel is constantly being altered but you just need to get BLM's right on 128 or as close as possible (I like to get them in between the 124-128 range, which means it's just slightly rich which is better than slightly lean IMO cuz it's easier to change spark plugs than change a piston lol).
Also, I'm not sure if you know about what BIN you will be using, but I recommend 6E for its simplicity and flexibility. I know you can use the 32 code (86) and the 32B (87-88, which is what you currently have in your car) but the 6E has alot more info on here and to me is alot easier to tune. BUT you can do it however you like, it's your choice.
So if you DO indeed choose 6E, make sure your BIN matches your XDF (mask) file, and also your ADS (datalogging) file must be the 6E version as well to datalog with the 6E mask. They basically all have to match. This same logic applies to 32 and 32b bins and whatever else is out there.
Hope this helps
-Marc
#3
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: DIY Starting Point
Marc:
Good point about the timing. When I first purchased the car, the PO misadjusted the timing by leaving the brown/black striped wire still plugged in. From everything I have read, I will be leaving initial timing at 6 degrees.
I will be going with the 6E bin since it removes the cold start injector and the FIRST intake does not have this provision.
Thanks for the input!!
Good point about the timing. When I first purchased the car, the PO misadjusted the timing by leaving the brown/black striped wire still plugged in. From everything I have read, I will be leaving initial timing at 6 degrees.
I will be going with the 6E bin since it removes the cold start injector and the FIRST intake does not have this provision.
Thanks for the input!!
#4
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Re: DIY Starting Point
Stock initial timing is 6*, but I have my timing set at 10 degrees at the distributor and 10 in the bin. It's whatever your engine likes really, but all timing related to driving is set at the bin anyway (LV8 vs RPM spark advance table).
I removed the cold start injector as well and the 6E works perfect for it.
I removed the cold start injector as well and the 6E works perfect for it.
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