jamienoel

I finally made the ALDL serial cable interface!

I used WinALDL and found some interesting things.

1: My Tach is WAY off! At around 65 MPH, the in dash gauge reads 3500 RPM, but in reality it's around 1600/1625 RPM.

2: My speedometer is off about 7 MPH on the dash, but only 2 with the speed sensor. It could be the tire size change from original 15" to 16".

I don't have the EGR connected right now because of some past problems with it prematurely opening, so it's throwing the code for that.

Attached is a data log I made from the time I dropped my daughter off at her job until arriving home. At the 1000.4 mark, something strange happened according to the log. Most of it was regular driving, but there was a couple times I was able to briefly tramp on it, but only very briefly.

I do not know what much of this means yet, but the program was giving me a rich flag.

The engine is a 350 TBI from a 93-94 truck as are the injectors, ESCM and other needed things and the computer is suppose to be from an 89 Caprice 5.7L, but someone told me they didn't make a regular 5.7L Caprice in 89, so I have no idea what it is other than it's a 1228746.

I hope to find someone who can read this stuff fluently so I can find out if there is anything wrong, but the rich condition could be the pressure to the injectors since it has an adjustable regulator; it may be a little high.

I'm only just beginning! I was tickled to death when I hooked up the homemade interface and it worked the first time!

I'm not sure why it fails to show my speed in the data log though.

After I figure out what half of this actually means to where I know a little of what I'm doing, I'm going to do the PROM thing, but that won't be until after I get the Vortec heads. They are only going to cost me $35 each at a local yard! I have two 1228746 computers, so one will be the Guinea pig!

RBob

iTrader: (1)

For the dash tach see the sticky's on the electronics board here. Shows how to fix it.

Is there any way to dump the log in CSV format? In text format the headers don't line up with the columns. Which makes it difficult to figure out what is what.

RBob.

jamienoel

I'm not sure if I did this right, but there are two in the zip file. One is in MS Excel format.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I opened the CSV version in Excel. There BLMs are moving around quite a bit. Generally on the low side. Use the BLM display feature in WinALDL and change the VE tables.

RBob.

jamienoel

I understand a little better after doing some reading.

jamienoel

Okay, after reading some articles, I see that my car is running rich and the computer is trying to somehow reduce fuel.

I may have a little too much pressure going to the injectors since I did make the FPR adjustable and just kind of guessed at where to put it. So if I decrease the pressure to the injectors, I may be able to get the numbers down to 128?

I wish I had a screwdriver that worked on a right angle so I didn't have to take the pod off to do it! Real-time would be awesome!

I'm learning....

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

as rbob mentioned you can change the ve tables. this can be done live with tuner pro and a ostrich or dynamicefi ebl. There may not be a need for the adjustable fuel pressure regulator are you compensating injector flow for a cam swap ?

jamienoel

It's basically a stock LO5 flat tappet truck engine. I did the AFPR when I was still using 305 injectors. I'm allowing more air in with the ultimate TBI mods now, but that's really the extent of the engine mods so-far.

My main income right now is SSD and even with what work I can do on the side, my budget is severely limited, so I don't yet have the extra for those devices, but I do plan on getting some kind of programmer in the near future.

Right now I just want it to run correctly. With my mortgage and other bills, money is very tight which is why I'm only paying $70 for two Vortec heads! If I had the money, I would buy new stuff and forget about it, but I unfortunately can't right now.

The heads are not going to be bought until later this summer now or even fall, but I'll definitely need a way to edit things by then.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Without the ability to change the actual calibration, the best you can do is to change the fuel pressure. Adjust it until the majority of the BLM values center around 128.

RBob.

jamienoel

Thank you.

I'll do that until I am able to purchase the other hardware. It is nice having an interface now to see the numbers. I have been wanting to do this for so long and I finally got around to doing it and it's really nice to have a readout showing everything working.

I am going to take the tach out and put a potentiometer in place to calibrate it and then get a reading on the pot in order to permanently replace it with a resister, although many people say it is most likely a capacitor, I don't think the local Radio Shack carries the needed value. I could probably order it from somewhere, but I'll go the resister route if it works.

Thanks again!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

pot in series with the cts ?

jamienoel

When I was running the ALDL program, it showed that my tach is way off, so I'm going to try changing the resistance in the tach itself after reading in the electronics section how to do it.

The pot will simply be used to calibrate it to what WinALDL shows and then I'll get the resister (resisters if it's an odd value) from Rat Shack at whatever value it shows. I don't trust the pot to remain constant, so I'll use actual resisters to replace it.

This will give me a chance to fix the 4 LED lights are are not working again for some reason after doing the dash light conversion with regular LEDs. Still illuminates enough from the others to see well, but the top 4 are dead for some reason. I ran them all in a series of 4 so I wouldn't need to use resisters and I think those 4 have a bad connection on one end.

Here's the link where I did that. You can see the top left side is a little dark:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ent-panel.html

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

ok now I follow