Topgun

I am having a problem whit my spedo. At the start of my moving, the spedo bounces from 0-55. Now the odometer is on. I have tested it out at different speeds. and it is perfectly on. So i don't think it is the cable. A mecanic thought that it might be the head. But for the dealers aroung here to touch it it would be about $300! Just to touch it, not counting parts and labor!!!! I thought it might be better just to get a new spedo. I hat the duel-bar anyway. I was thinking on an iroc 145mph. If so, can i put this in myslef? what do i have to do? does it have to be calabrated? if so, like i said, $300 just to touch it. thanx for all the help you guys can give me

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EMAIL: CTopgun5@aol.com
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84' Z28
New 350 Ci 4 Bolt Main with all L69/HO Parts
4 BBl Carb
160º Thermostat
K&N High Flow Filter
700R4 Trans
15X7 Standard Z28 Wheels, With 215/65R15 BF Goodrich Comp T/A HR4 Tires
Charcol in Color
no T-tops, but wish
New Head unit, JVC KD-SX750
New Kenwood 3-Way 6X9's KFC-6906S
New Pioneer Sub TS-W253C
New Jensen 4-Channel Amp XA-4150
As FiremanZ28 says "Friends don't let Friends Drive Mustangs"
Pic of my Z28, thanks to ZZ4 and his web page: Http://www.geocities.com/ukzz4iroc/z28camaro.jpg

Apeiron

It's pretty easy to change the speedo yourself, just remove the bezel covering the instrument panel, then the panel itself. Press the speedo cable retaining clip towards the panel to get it to let go. You'll find it a lot easier to get the panel in and out if you drop the steering column too. The speedo attaches to the cluster with a couple of screws at the back.

To swap the odometer you can remove the screws in the face and remove the clip on the end of the odometer shaft. This will give you enough room to push the odometer shaft in and slide the numbers out.

When you put the panel back you might have some trouble getting the speedo cable to seat correctly in the speedometer shaft. I've found its best to pull the speedo cable forward so you can twist the panel around however you need to get the cable to seat fully, and then line it up and push it back in.

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1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid long-rod 4 bolt SBC, ARP Bolts, 2 1/2" Cowl w/ Cold Air Induction, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6A Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, HEI Distributor w/ Adjustable Advance, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flowmaster Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler