Stekman

Ok, have the new chassis harness pretty much wired up. Except for the power wires. Now, I have 3 big red wires (one of which is obvious). I've got the main battery to the starter solenoid, which is the obvious. Then I have 2 more red wires, about 8 ga, possibly 10. One is the feed to power the fuse box. The other is just a loose wire, doesn't connect to anything on either side.

On the factory schematic (thanks again for those, Trickster), it shows the wires going to the terminal on the starter solenoid. Specifically, the main power in, then the 2 small(er) wires out. One apparently leads to the fuse box, the other to the alternator. I'm going to guess that the one that leads to the fuse box goes on the starter solenoid terminal. Now, the other tag wire. I'm going to guess that it goes from the starter sol. to the alternator. My alternator has 2 red wires in. The "Batt" feed on the back and the red one on the plug. I'm going to guess that the main one off the starter goes to the batt feed. Now, on the schematics, it shows a splice off of this wire that goes to the red spade terminal. How would that work? Do i splice off the red wire to the batt feed? If so, what gauge wire?

Now the second issue. Fusible links. Both the power to the fuse box and the power to the alternator require fusible links. I know the rule about 2 wire sizes smaller. However, since these wires are about 8 ga, I would need 12 gauge fusible links. All i can find are 14 ga (which would be for 10 ga primary wire, obviously). Now, here's my question. Are these links absolutly needed? Or can i run inline fuses instead. It would be a heack of a lot more convenient to just replace a fuse than a 6" chunk of wire. It would also be a heck of a lot easier to find an inline fuse for an 8 ga. wire. If anyone knows where to get the proper size fusible links, let me know. Otherwise I'm getting sick of this and am pretty close to just running an inline fuse.

Trickster

Actually Stekkie,

They both go to the fuse panel in a round about way. I will get back to you on that later.

Stekman

yea i saw the "to fuse box" but wasnt sure...

stekkie...you and Red Devil come up with some names for me, thats for sure...

get back to me later.... ::scratches head, waits, twiddles thumbs:: heh alright.

Duck

I really like the idea of big fuses instead of fusible links!

Oh how I wish someone had a diagram showing the location of fusible links in our Camaros and the values, so I could at least know where to look when one blows out -- and at best plan to replace them all with fuses.

Trickster

Okay you can quit twiddling your thumbs and scratching your ***, I'm back. In the original wiring there are two fusible links coming off the starter solenoid. The first one goes to pin "G4" of connector "C100" (firewall connector), it then splits with one wire going to the "tail" fuse which also connects to the "STOP/HAZ" & "CTSY" fuse inside the fuse panel. The second wire on this fusible link goes to the "circuit breaker" in the light switch. The second fusible link has a splice in it with four wires coming off it. One wire of the spice is going to pin "D" of the blower high speed relay. Two other wires are going to the alternator while the 4th wire goes to pin "A4" of the "C100" connector. Inside the car, it has a splice in it with three wires coming off it. The first wire goes to the "PWR ACC CIRCUIT BREAKER" on the fuse panel. The second two wires go to pins "B2" & "B3" of the ignition switch. Okay, you can go back to scratching again!! Hey, me and Red Devil are collabarators on your name.

Stekman

Hey, that's not how you spell "head."

I am a man. If it itches, I will scratch it. 'Nuff said.

Anyway, here's the part. I am not using any part of the factory harness anymore as this is along the lines of the Painless 18 circuit (with a few more circuits). All that "routed to the fuse box" and "routed to the ign switch" is taken care of already. For that, it was pretty much a plug and play. Same thing with the circuit breakers.

Basically, is what I'm after is I have 2 big red wires and I a.) need to know where they go and b.) do they need a fusible link and, if so, can I use a big fuse?

Ok, these red wires. The first, about 8-10ga. On it it reads "Main Pwr." It leads to the fuse box spaghetti mess. That is the only big "power wire" that leads to the fuse box stuff. The other is just a wire. About 2' long. Looks to be about 8 ga. Also red (assuming power wire here). Where would this go? Battery terminal of the alternator?

Thanks for the help thus far.

On a side note, I do have 1 wire that says "ctsy" which i took as the "CTSY" circuit. Where does that wire go?

Trickster

Do you have a schematic of that painless wiring kit that you could send me. BTW, if it is a painless wiring kit, why all the anquish and hair pulling?

Stekman

Painless and trouble-free are 2 different adjectives for this. It may be painless, but is sure as hell isn't easy.

I'll grab the diagram in the morning.

Trickster

Thanks, I hope you have large stock of pain killers on hand. You know, the ones that come in 16 ounce pop top cans or easy twist cap bottles well chilled.

Stekman

I'm 20.....I just bang my head into the wall until I can't feel it anymore.

have any idea on the ctsy wire? it's labeled "CTSY PWR." It comes from the ctsy fuse.

Oh yea, Then where DOES the "batt" wire go and the red wire off the alternator plug?

Trickster

The red wire would go to the stud on the back of the alternator. Remember I mentioned earlier two wires from the fusible link going to the alternator.

Stekman

Thats what i thought. Then that goes to the appropriate terminal on the starter solenoid. Does that wire need to have a fusible link or anything? The wire they provide for this is like 8 ga. hard to find a 12 ga fusi-link. If it needs one, what about a big inline fuse? What about the alternator lead (or am i getting that mixed up with the 12ga wire on the terminal plug)?

One wire at a time....

*edit* Ok, so the big red wire is fusi-linked and gets spliced and goes to both the red terminals. Got that part. Now, the fuse part itself. Also, just splice in a 12 ga wire along there somewhere? Or is it best to splice at the fusi-link (or whatever gets used)?

Trickster

Yes, it should have a fusible link already in it down at the starter solenoid. Notice that I said "it should".

Duck

Thanks Trickster, appreciate the info about fusible links. There's only two in our cars? I had the impression there were more... What fuse value would you recommend for replacing the links with fuses?

Trickster

You're welcome Duck, on your car there are three fusible links coming off the starter solenoid. There is also another one coming off the positive battery cable at the battery post. On the 1982 model that StekMan is working on, there were only two fusible links coming off the starter solenoid. On replacing the fusible links with in-line fuses, I would recommend a minimum of a 20 AMP fuse.

Stekman

Well, like you said, there is a fusible link coming off the main wire to the fuse box. However, there is none that goes on the other red wire (solenoid to alternator). I really want to get rid of the fusible links as they are a huge PITA in my opinion. So, I know that they go on the source side of the wire, but, different fused wire for each? Both off the same fused wire? If one method is more safe than the other, that is the route i want to take (I've had my share of engine fire). I plan for a 10 ga wire/30 amp fuse, each red wire fused seperatly. Will that be sufficient, seeing as how the actual power wires themselves are 8 ga?

Thanks again Trickster