ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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I installed a DEI 530T One-Touch Window Control Module today and since it was so easy, I decided to post a schematic so anyone else can connect one as well. To start off, I got my 530T new for $60 + S&H from:
I connected the ORANGE "Ground When Armed" line from the 530T to the ORANGE "Armed" line from my Viper alarm so the windows are automatically rolled up when I arm my alarm.
Here's how I integrated the 530T into the power window wiring:
__________________ "People do, in fact, act in a reasonable and responsible manner without constant government intervention."
The one-touch?...Yes. [edit: I changed the following description because I sounded like I was on crack.] By quickly pressing window switch and releasing, the window will automatically travel all the way up or down and stop. Unit has built in safety stop to prevent broken bones. By holding button longer than .5 seconds the window switches work manually.
I believe the one-touch functionality is required to tie the auto-roll-up feature into any number of off-the-shelf alarms.
__________________ "People do, in fact, act in a reasonable and responsible manner without constant government intervention."
I pulled the eight screws from the shifter plate (my car has an auto transmission) and could access everything from there. When I was finished, I pushed 5 wires out the back of the center console for further hookup:
+12VDC
Ground
(-) Auxiliary Input
(-) Ground When Armed
(-) Output During Activation
Obviously, I connected the +12V and ground wires. Then I connected the Ground When Armed to my alarm and left the other two wires floating. The Auxiliary Input can be wired to an extra channel on the alarm to allow remote window activation, but I have not yet connected this line. My Auxiliary Input & Output During Activation lines are currently not in use.
If you currently have an alarm with a sensitive enough vibration sensor, you will probably have to utilize a relay to bypass the sensor while the windows roll up. To do this, you'd tie into the "Output During Activation" wire on one side of the relay's coil and tie the other side of the coil to +12V.
This Output During Activation line is held low for the duration of the window roll up/down process and for 5 seconds after both widows are rolled up.
Oh...and one more thing: due to the moving parts in the shifter plate assembly, I ran all the wires through 1/2" loom and zip tied it away from the shifter so I don't pop fuses should I crimp a wire with the shifter.
__________________ "People do, in fact, act in a reasonable and responsible manner without constant government intervention."
Any chance you could tell us what those settings are? I got my unit used as part of a pulled alarm system from a wrecked car, so I have no idea what the "default settings" are.....
NEVER MIND - I'll bet those are the "Factory Settings" in the PDF file mentioned above....
I only took a quick look, but it appears that one default setting is missing from the install guide. For quick reference, I've posted a pic below of the defaults. As both motor leads rest at ground, our cars are type A systems. This is the missing DIP switch #5 position.
__________________ "People do, in fact, act in a reasonable and responsible manner without constant government intervention."
Wow, I bought this thing back in december and I'm just gettin to installing it This thing is the bomb!!! Any ways, I ran out if time to wire it into my alarm. (Viper 600ESP) Any body have a wire diagram for that alarm, that way i can fiqure out how to tie it into the 530T. This way i can utilize that auto up when armed feature and the Auxiliary Input wire. Which is wired to an extra channel on the alarm to allow remote window activation.
Sorry to bring back an old post, but 1 of these modules will work for 2 windows, correct? It seems the autolock version is for 1 window, so you need 2 of them, to get both front doors working.
Crazy, I went looking for this a few years ago not realizing that I had found this thread and posted in it already . Now is the time to actually do it.
I've had mine installed for about a year now, works perfectly!! In addition, it has a couple of optional wires one can connect. They can be hooked up different way's I guess, but here's how I connected mine:
With a signal from the alarm remote, it closes both windows as one arm the alarm, and lock the doors. This is very handy. One can also have auto-arm, then one also get auto-lock and auto windows. This can be a bit dangerous though, in case one forget to take keys out of ignition. However, if one connect a lockout relay from the switch that senses keys in ignition, this should prevent that.
Also, one can run windows up and down seperatly from remote, or both at the same time. I also hooked up my remote to open the trunk, but thats not connected to the DEI module though.
I use a DEFA 8 or 9000 series alarm I think. Note: The DEI is of course connected to outputs on the alarm main unit, not directly taking signals from the remote itself.
Good write-up. Phlaxus or tilstad, a couple of questions:
1. Do you know how the 530T actually knows when to stop rolling the windows? Example: Windows are already up, and you arm it. Can you hear it 'trying' for X amount of seconds or does it somehow know they're already up? Current-sensing maybe?
2. Do you use the venting feature? I was thinking of tying this to the door pin, so that the windows come down a little as I open the doors, like the new cars. I'm aware that this will take additional control, perhaps with a micro-controller (I've seen your other thread on this tilstad).
It is load sensing, it knows when the windows are up and down, and it knows when the window get up or all the way down.
I don't see how you could control the venting feature via a door pin, the vent feature puts my windows down about an inch, maybe and inch and a half. It is control by the same channel on the remote as putting the windows all the way down. On mine, I press the open and lock buttons at the same time, it vents, if I press and hold the open and lock buttons for @ 2 seconds, the windows go all the way down. No way to split the control from left and right windows either. To put the windows up, I just have to hit the lock button and arm the system, it rolls the windows up.
Thanks kris. Knowing that it's inherently load sensing means I should at a minimum use the 530T to control the windows.
A friend of mine diode-isolated both my doors so they can send independent signals. I could have a micro-controller watch for the driver door pin to close ground, then pulse the 530 driver side window for 1 second. When the ground opens, the micro will then count down one second before rolling up the window. The great thing about this is I won't have to add a load-sensing capability to the micro
Thanks kris. Knowing that it's inherently load sensing means I should at a minimum use the 530T to control the windows.
A friend of mine diode-isolated both my doors so they can send independent signals. I could have a micro-controller watch for the driver door pin to close ground, then pulse the 530 driver side window for 1 second. When the ground opens, the micro will then count down one second before rolling up the window. The great thing about this is I won't have to add a load-sensing capability to the micro
Has this been done..??
I would be interested to see if all you have to do is pulse a signal to DEI unit. The alarm wire will do auto roll up on both windows -i understand- so if one is already up not a big deal.
What the problem is that if the windows are already down it will roll them both up when you exit rather than leaving them down if you choose to leave them down. So everytime you get out of your car it rolls the windows all the way up.
Does the DEI unit cut power to the motor if you hold the button up....?? Currently there is no factory saftey. If you hold the switch it will burn out the motor.
It will roll the windows up, but if you want them down you can put them down again with the remote if you want. And yes, it will cut power to the window motors, so they won't burn out.
I haven't done this. I'm holding off wiring until over the summer, and even then I will just be using the DEI. I need more practice with the Arduino micro-controller before I can incorporate it, especially since it would be worthwhile to also tie it to my interior lighting.
By pulsing the DEI I meant having the micro act as if I pressed the up switch based on whatever side it saw the ground open (not roll both windows up feature). The reason this unit is cool is because from what I understand, it will cut power when it senses the load is too high. That's one less thing I have to have the microcontroller do.
But you made a good point. If my windows were open halfway, this system would still try and crack the window upon opening door because it would have no idea of its position. The arduino is very flexible and maybe I can programmatically keep track of it, but right now that's a flaw. Hmmm.
If your able to manualy apply a 1 second signal to roll down then you could manually apply a 2 second signal up. The DEI would be nice to clip the current off all the way up. The way it would only move up a little rather than all the way. The other I was junking was reed switches or ir sensors in doors to disable function ifmwindow was not all the way up when door open.
I've just ordered some DPDT relays and the DEI to start working on this also.
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