Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

how difficult is it to replace the alternator? i'm thinking of doing it myself...is there anything important i should know?...and how do i test my old one to see if i do need to replace it...

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

IIRC, AutoZone and similiar stores will test for you. The swap is pretty much an unbolt-bolt up affair. You can do it with a few basic handtools.

JamesC

Ramair21

iTrader: (3)

changing the alt is one of the simplest things to do on our cars. you should have no problem what so ever. good luck

iroc-si

Just remember to disconnect the battery ground first!

Si.

Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

so i should just leave the positive connected on the battery? or are you talking about a ground that goes to the alt...which brings up another question, which order do you connect/disconnect battery cables?...

Amrish

I am almost certain you disconnect the negative side first, I did this a while ago. I was new to it too, it was my first job and it was cake. After disconnecting the battery, just take out the belt, disconnect the wires going to the alt and unbolt it.

I had alot of questions when I first did this too, but you wont really get much out of it until you just go ahead and do it.

Goodluck

iroc-si

You always disconnect the ground connection to the battery first, and reconnect it last.

If you were to disconnect the positive first then if you slipped with the spanner it is very easy to short the positive terminal to the chassis. bang.

You can leave the positive connection at the battery on while you do the work. as it has no effect with the battery's negative disconnected.

To disconnect the battery it should be a case of loosening the clamp and it should pull up out of the way. Don't unscrew the wire crimps. Also it is a good idea to pull it on/off in one action, to avoid it sparking on/off/on/off etc too much.

Si.

Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

can i check the alt with my multi meter?...

iroc-si

You should be able to tell if its working from inside the car. If the voltage gauge shows 12v then the alt is bust. if it shows 14v then its working. The only issue is if its not working well and thus pushing out lower power than you need on average. This will result is a slow drain down to nothing on the battery.

Si.

iroc-si

another test.....

using the meter on mV range, (best to start on V and move down). With the engine running, Put the positive probe on the alt output stud, and the negative on the battery. The voltage should show something like 17mV for normal opperation. 56mV with the full beam headlights on. If it shows a negative voltage, or very low values with the headlights on then the alt is not doing a good job.

What you are doing with this test is showing the current in the cable from the alt to the battery. The units are unkown though....

Si.

Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

i haven't tested it yet but probably will tomorrow...the thing is, when i start it the battery gauge is very low until i rev the engine to 1500 RPM, then the battery gauge goes up to normal, but sometimes when i'm switching between D and R for parking, the battery gauge goes down again...

iroc-si

Yeah, sounds like the alt does work, just not very well. Probably something like a phase or two of the rectifier (inside the alt) has died.

Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

so i should just go ahead and replace it huh...

iroc-si

Yup. Sounds like it.

Have fun!