eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

my '91 firebird didn't want to start today. for a while, it's been like this, but after waiting 10 mins. it would start. not today.
i read on the board about putting in a resistor in the VATS wires matching the resistance in the key. the resistance in the key is 1.865 k ohms....the closest i could rig up resistors is 1.910 k ohms. i put it in and nothing still.

can someone shead some light on what i might be doing wrong?? thanks

jstrdn90rs

You have a number 7 key code..the range is 1.795-1.965 it should be within range ..maybe go down closer to 1.795 and see what that does.1.870 is ideal

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

just to make sure i'm doing this right, i'm supposed to splice the resistor between the 2 white wires that are covered by one orange wire...right? do i have to give it time to adjust or does it need to be soldered for a complete connection? thanks.

jstrdn90rs

If you have more then one resistor it needs to be wired in series,not parallel...in other words one end of the resistor to one end of the other resistor like a train....One wire off vats--resistor---resistor--other wire off vats.No, it should not have time to adjust the vats module might.If the light stays on wait 4 minutes and try it again if its still on.. either a problem in the module or vats system or the incorrect resistance number.Just plug it in and turn on the key... light should go out in seconds.Dont wire the resistors in parallel which its twisting both ends of the resistors together and then soldering both ends to each vats wire.Doing it this way will place the wrong resistance number..check the vats connector for the correct resistance when you get them soldered in.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

okay, i got resistors and linked them together and got exactly 1.865 k ohms, which is the same amount on the key read off of the same multimeter. hooked it up and still nothing. the resistance in the connector is the same amount as well. the fuse is also good. what else could it be...the VATS module??? if so where is that thing at, and would a new ecm chip to take VATS out take care of that?

joshwilson3

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eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the reply. yeah i was connecting into the white wires. i'll switch to the other connector in the morning. also, i haven't been paying attention to the security light...i'm assuming that it is supposed to turn on and off after a few seconds? i'll look tomorrow. what does it mean if it doesnt??

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

i tried switching the resistor to the purple/white and white/black wires and still got nothing. the "security" light came on for a few seconds and turned off. any ideas?
i don't think its the resistance...because i tested the ohms in the connector with and without the key, and i got resistance with the key in, so there is a connection with the key and wires. it just won't do anything.

83z28camaro

The security system seems to be working correctly. Have you tried moving the shifter while holding the key in the crank position? If that does nothing you could try removing the drivers kick panel and testing that the starter relay is working. If the relay is working when you hold the key in the crank position you should have three powers and one ground. I believe the ground is green with a white stripe. If that checks out I would check for power on the purple wire at the starter while having someone turning the key to the crank position. Then if you have power there check for power on battery stud of the starter both with the key off and in crank positions. Mike

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

it's not the shifter...it's not the starter relay behind the kick panel.... i can't test the starter until a get some help.

about the car:
when i got it less than a year ago, the flywheel was missing 2 teeth. i replaced it, then the starter would work every so often....the other times it sounded like it was hitting the flywheel and grinding on it. while it was doing this, sometimes it wouldn't do anything for about 5 mins. then it would start. also, it would crank, but not turn on, so i replaced the starter and it worked fine for a week. then went out to start it and nothing....been like that for 5 days.

...if it is the starter...how should i go about testing it?

Mickey_Moose

Quick check - disconnect the plug from the VATS module, ground pin A3, try starting the car.

Pin A3 activates the starter enable relay, if the starter will not engage, try disconnecting the plug from the starter enable relay and jumper pin A and E. Try starting the car. If now the starter engages check the relay (make sure you have ign power on pin C and E). You can verify that Pin B goes to ground when the key is turned on (VATS module connected).

If it still does not start, possible your gear selector switch(auto)/clutch switch(standard) may have a problem.

NOTE: the car will NOT run in the above tests as the VATS module has to signal the ECM to turn on the fuel, but it will let you turn the starter. If the module is bad, you can either replace it or bypass it.

The starter can tested by removing it and taking it to a someplace that will test it for you (ie: Autozone, etc - any of the large chain stores).

Tim

joshwilson3

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Mickey_Moose

VATS module - I can't tell you exactly how to get at it, however according to the parts book, it is located just to the right of the steering column at roughly the same height. Looks like it might be attached to the heater box (I am not sure with that as I am only looking at the parts book).

As for the wiring, according to the diagram you are using (similar to the one I have): power comes in on pins C and E of the relay, pin B come from VATS to activate the relay. Pin B goes low to ground out the coil which turns on the switch iside the relay. The switch is across pins A and E and is normally open. The realy should be marked on it's side as to what pins are what (maybe yours is different). Can't answer that part.

Anyways, if your car is running fine, what is it that you are trying to do with the VATS??? If it starts and runs, then you have nothing to worry about.

joshwilson3

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Mickey_Moose

NOTE: the car won't start doing it this way as the ECM still needs the signal from the VATS to enable the fuel injectors - it will allow the starter to turn however.