Heater Blower Test
#1
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Car: 87 Pont Firebird
Engine: 305 Carb
Transmission: 700r4
Heater Blower Test
I'm having an issue where the blower is not blowing. So I was wondering if one of the tests I can do to check if it's the Blower motor is to connect a possitive (the Purple wire) to a 12volt, and the Black wire to a negative and see if the motor runs. Also when I turn on the heater from the inside panel should the Purple and black show current.
This is a father son project that is just completing and this is one of those loss ends that needs attention. Here are some before and after shoots.
Thanks,
This is a father son project that is just completing and this is one of those loss ends that needs attention. Here are some before and after shoots.
Thanks,
#2
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Yes you can do that.
Yes when the control head is calling for the fan to run, there should be some kind of voltage on the purple lead, which will depend on which switch setting you have it on. Lower speeds will send a lower voltage.
If the motor works when you connect the purple wire to a source of battery but not when connected to the car's wiring, and the fuse in the fuse box is good, then most likely the same connector that burns up in everybody else's car, has burned up in yours. Very very very common in ALL GM cars over a wide range of years, from the late 70s on into the 90s.
Remove the AC control head. Observe the wiring. You'll find a harness with about 4 or 5 wires in it that goes off one way (toward the blower resistors and the AC low-pressure switch, actually), and a single brown wire that goes off another way all by itself. That brown wire is the power source for the entire HVAC system. Follow it about 12-15" up into the dash. You'll come to a connector. Attempt to unplug it. You'll almost certainly find that it has degenerated into a pile of ashes. Replace it, even if it "looks" good to you, with a set of BIG THICK HEAVY yellow insulated slide terminals; not the ordinary little weenie thin ones, but rather, BIG THICK HEAVY. Odds are, that will fix it.
Yes when the control head is calling for the fan to run, there should be some kind of voltage on the purple lead, which will depend on which switch setting you have it on. Lower speeds will send a lower voltage.
If the motor works when you connect the purple wire to a source of battery but not when connected to the car's wiring, and the fuse in the fuse box is good, then most likely the same connector that burns up in everybody else's car, has burned up in yours. Very very very common in ALL GM cars over a wide range of years, from the late 70s on into the 90s.
Remove the AC control head. Observe the wiring. You'll find a harness with about 4 or 5 wires in it that goes off one way (toward the blower resistors and the AC low-pressure switch, actually), and a single brown wire that goes off another way all by itself. That brown wire is the power source for the entire HVAC system. Follow it about 12-15" up into the dash. You'll come to a connector. Attempt to unplug it. You'll almost certainly find that it has degenerated into a pile of ashes. Replace it, even if it "looks" good to you, with a set of BIG THICK HEAVY yellow insulated slide terminals; not the ordinary little weenie thin ones, but rather, BIG THICK HEAVY. Odds are, that will fix it.
#3
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Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt Borg Warner Disk Brake Posi
That way actually works quite well i did it and found out my motor was great it just had no ground. thanks!
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