If I had a scanner I would just scan all the pages and post them but I dont, sorry. The DIC is all solid state, the book just shows the wires from it as "matched resistances" and "solid state, do not measure resistance". Not much about turn signals or lights really. ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by Stephen Why would one side give a 'bulb out' light, yet the other wouldn't? I am thinking that maybe because of where the wires are cut in different spots that the continuity is now a slightly different resistance?

Honestly, I haven’t had a chance to play with it since, or even look it up (scooter, I’m assuming that you’re pulling info from the FSM??? I have an ’87 FSM as well as the electronic supplement, apparently there were some mid year changes, but haven’t looked yet). I will try to when I get home, but I suspect that that won’t be till very late if I get a chance at all, and I do have a scanner so I can scan it but again, probably not till this weekend.

Can someone confirm that “R” is right and not rear? The little graphic is showing all 4 rear lights on it, not just the right hand side, but I don’t know if it even has the ability to show one side or the other. I haven’t tried grounding the F terminal yet either, I wonder if whatever the dash its doing would get straightened out with just doing that rather then disconnecting everything.

The annoying part about it is not the warning on the dash, but the chime it plays every few seconds with it.
FWIW, it also seems to be flashing faster, like if a bulb was out even though I can’t find one that’s not working

Our flashers are not electronic but mechanical (bi-metal). The more current that flows through them, the shorter they stay on. The less current that flows through them, the longer they stay on.

The STS should not affect the flasher much (but it's just a theory) because the bulbs turn on in 3 phases: 1, 2 and 3. So on "average", two bubls are lit. If anything, the flasher should slow down (again, theory).

Hope this helps.
Lou