When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I did this and fixed my speedometer and odometer, thanks alot. I do have an issue though and would like some feed back. It's a stock 92 tbi. Speedo says it can go 110mph. my speed is off by about 15-30mph. For example I will be going 60mph according to gps but my speedometer is sitting at 90mph. the problem I am having is once my speedometer hits 110 my camaro bogs down and has no throttle response. When I'm probably going 70mph or 80mph. could this be the result of a bad speed sensor at the tranny?
Are you sure that it is 100% stock? It sounds to me like someone either messed with the rear end gear ratio or messed with the VSS gears. My 92 Firebird speedometer is ~20% off because someone swapped the entire rear out of pre-89 350 AT car with 3.27 gears for the stock 2.73 rear end.
It studdering because it has a speed limiter and the ECM thinks you are hitting it.
First, thanks a ton for posting this! Question: Was this a fix for only your speedometer failure, or did it fix both your speedometer and odometer? The speedometer and the odometer both died on my '92 305 this morning.
I know it fixed my speedometer, my odometer didnt start working until a couple months later when i had it out and sprayed some WD-40 on the electric motor and gears. Mine was slightly rusted
Thanks for the fast reply! Ordinarily, I'd suspect the VSS on something like this, but I'm not having any drivability problems and there's no check engine light. Thanks again!
a good way to tell if the VSS is working is see if the car will shutoff...mine would shut off when it had the factory tune, so thats how i finally ruled out the VSS and the ECM issue.
Well, I just went to take it for a drive over lunch; I was going to use the cruise control to see if the VSS was bad ... and now the speedometer and odometer are working fine! Cruise control works, too. Go figure ....
So when your speedos die are they at 0mph? cause mine died at 40mph and hasnt moved since its a 92 tbi 5spd factory i swaped in 350 tpi 6spd speedo worked before and after the swap and was trying to get the dakota digital box setup when it stuck at 40 any ideas?
Mine was holding itself at zero MPH when the board was not working. With the car off it would fall slightly. Powering the car on always returned it to zero.
It could be dependent on the extent of damage to the board though.
I went to try and do this fix because my speedo wont move at all and when I took apart my speedo gauge it had different resistors than what you have in your pictures. According to the color bands mine is only a 3.9 ohm resistor in that location. What would be the reason for this? I have a 92 rs, originally it have a 305 tbi
Color bands seem to be partially missing on mine, but it also measures 3.9 ohms. Also, found a picture of one of these boards on the web that clearly shows a 3.9 ohm resistor in that slot.
It could be a variation between 145 mph (which mines is) and others if there's another resistance used?
Also, per the results, it seems like increasing the resistance some (at least up to 30 ohms) does not affect the speed reading?
Well, our 1991 RS speedometer (110 mph) finally gave up the ghost - part of the time. It would work for a while, then intermittently, then not at all. I have been reading this post on how to fix it, and here are some additional notes I can add from my observations...
The resistor was reading 5.6 ohms, and not the 30 ohms it was supposed to read. My son and I replaced it with 2 -15 ohm resistors (5%) and cleaned the board real good with and old tooth brush and isopropyl alcohol and looked for any solder points that were not solid. All tested good. We also cleaned the contacts/plug-in for good measure.
The capacitor looked like it was bad (grungy on top), but was not swollen so we decided to go ahead and try just the "resistor fix". IF that didn't work, we would locate a new capacitor and replace it. We fixed it without having to replace the capacitor. We have a spare instrument cluster and checked that board too. Just the resistor had to be replaced to get that one working again.
Thanks to all that have helped me (and others) on this fix - now on to the next project!
Last edited by bigdaddyflo; 09-30-2015 at 03:10 PM.
Just want to add that mine is working and using a 3.9 ohm resistor. This is 145 mph speedometer, though. I have seen at least one other case where the band indicate a 3.9 ohm resistor. I made a separate post to document my experience performing this repair.
It would be great if some others could read the bands on their um modified boards to see what ohm eating is called out.
91 TBI. I tried the 2 15ohm resistors with no luck. My cruise control still works. Did I really need to replace that capacitor? I didn't.
I also did the resistor fix on my tach at the same time and that worked great
I replaced everything that looked or tested bad. The capacitor actually looked burnt on one side. One what to tell if the speedo still works is by using a 9v battery. Does zero harm it will atleast give you a clue if its works if so then something somewhere is bad.
I replaced everything that looked or tested bad. The capacitor actually looked burnt on one side. One what to tell if the speedo still works is by using a 9v battery. Does zero harm it will atleast give you a clue if its works if so then something somewhere is bad.
A 9 volt battery? I'm gonna order a new capacitor tonight and try that. Thanks for the work you put in to figure all this out.
Well my 92 305 rs, isnt working again. I sent it out and had it rebuilt ($300). put it in and worked great for a month or so . now it seems any time its damp out it stops.
odometer stops too, but cruise works fine, also no leaks in the car everything is dry
First off, I'd like to say thanks to the members for contributing to this thread. It has been very informative.
In the interest of passing on knowledge, I will add a few things which users may find helpful
Before my speedometer failed, it began to jump around and then completely died. My first thought was the speed sensor in the tail housing of the trans. Not wanting to take a chance and spend $80 on a replacement, i watched a clip on youtube on how to test these. The test involves hooking the sensor to a drill and monitoring the AC voltage as you spin it up.
I tried this and it did indeed produce AC voltage. From there, I felt it was good and proceeded to test other components as outlined in this thread.
guess what the problem was ?? The speed sensor which I thought was good ! !
Even though it produced AC voltage, it was eratic and the speedometer did not like it.
I feel the best way to test the speed sensor is to remove it from the trans and spin it with a drill while the connector is still hooked up. Ignition on, trans in neutral. hold the drill at a constant speed and note the speedometer. My faulty unit would make the needle move but it jumped up and down and took a lot of speed to see movement. The new sensor took less drill speed and held the needle constant.
Another test is to hook up a scan tool to the ecm and monitor the vehicle speed with the scanner. If you are reading 0 mph while driving, it's either the speed sensor or the wiring between it and the ecm.
by the way, my vehicile is a 91 camaro with a 305 tbi and has the external speed buffer. Its located next to the ecm directly behind the dashboard. I've attached some pictures
First off, I'd like to say thanks to the members for contributing to this thread. It has been very informative.
In the interest of passing on knowledge, I will add a few things which users may find helpful
Before my speedometer failed, it began to jump around and then completely died. My first thought was the speed sensor in the tail housing of the trans. Not wanting to take a chance and spend $80 on a replacement, i watched a clip on youtube on how to test these. The test involves hooking the sensor to a drill and monitoring the AC voltage as you spin it up.
I tried this and it did indeed produce AC voltage. From there, I felt it was good and proceeded to test other components as outlined in this thread.
guess what the problem was ?? The speed sensor which I thought was good ! !
Even though it produced AC voltage, it was eratic and the speedometer did not like it.
I feel the best way to test the speed sensor is to remove it from the trans and spin it with a drill while the connector is still hooked up. Ignition on, trans in neutral. hold the drill at a constant speed and note the speedometer. My faulty unit would make the needle move but it jumped up and down and took a lot of speed to see movement. The new sensor took less drill speed and held the needle constant.
Another test is to hook up a scan tool to the ecm and monitor the vehicle speed with the scanner. If you are reading 0 mph while driving, it's either the speed sensor or the wiring between it and the ecm.
by the way, my vehicile is a 91 camaro with a 305 tbi and has the external speed buffer. Its located next to the ecm directly behind the dashboard. I've attached some pictures Attachment 301285
Question before I pull the cluster. I'm running ebl with ostrich and an aftermarket speed converter box... Not sure why prev owner went that route vs changing the gear in the trans after reared swap... But I digress...
My dash speedo and odo stopped working, but I get accurate speed from headsup and data log display for ebl. If the Ecm is getting an accurate read and no codes, it's in the dash or speed converter box yes?
Question before I pull the cluster. I'm running ebl with ostrich and an aftermarket speed converter box... Not sure why prev owner went that route vs changing the gear in the trans after reared swap... But I digress...
My dash speedo and odo stopped working, but I get accurate speed from headsup and data log display for ebl. If the Ecm is getting an accurate read and no codes, it's in the dash or speed converter box yes?
Yes correct, it will be the speedo gauge. Mine was doing the same, the ecm was reading the mph but my gauge was dead, solved it with a capacitor and resistor.
I was able to fix the tach on my 91 RS but then the speedometer started going out intermittently. Now it's at zero more often than anything else. Going to try cleaning up that chip and test all the resistors. I don't remember what it tested at but it's another example of a 3.9 ohm resistor.
Last edited by Crazy Eddie; 12-07-2016 at 01:05 AM.
I have finally got a fix to most of everybody's speedometer problems, i'm new to posting but ill try to make this short, sweet and informative, along with pictures. I also have ECM 7730. Also I should mention 91-92 camaros that are TPI V8, MPFI V6 do not have a Vehicle Speed Buffer as the computer MEM CAL takes care of that. 91-92 camaros that are TBI v8 do have the VSS Buffer, which is a YELLOW box located on either the Passenger side behind the kick panel, or mounted to the computer, or could also be located in behind/beside the Gauge Cluster. I am not sure about 1990 models, i assume they all have the yellow box.
First of all, I tried reading any and all posts and to no avail i found nothing that was a sure fire fix. So i set out to fix it my self and create this post as I hope it help everyone else that is having the same issue(s) that I have had.
Second, I did a voltage check on PINs B10 yellow wire (vss positive input signal) and B9 purple wire (vss ground) to make sure my Vehicle Speed Sensor was sending voltage to the ECM. That Checked out. While I was there, I checked out PIN B11 grey wire (Speedometer signal wire) and nothing seemed to be coming out, so I did some research and found out that B11 receives signal from the Speedometer itself, B11 does not send signal it receives it.
After all of that, I went ahead and checked the Cruise control wire which I believe is 4000ppm. Everything check out very nicely. My cruise control always worked but I was confused as to why but I checked the wire anyways, which is the RED wire I have circled in red below:
From there I tested the Resistance of the Grey to make sure it was still a one piece wire and that nothing or no-one has cut it in half. It ringed out just fine. So I hooked up the voltage meter to the B11 pin on the ECM and drove the car around the block, no signal at all, ok, so I hook the voltage meter up to the grey wire on the back of the Gauge cluster and drove around still no voltage, the wire is circled in red below:
From there I preceded to take out the cluster and in spec the Speedometer itself. everything seemed fine. Then I remembered the speedo sends voltage to B11 so i traced the circuit board. All seemed good. The I randomly got board and started testing all of the resistors on the little mother board that is connecter to the Speedo shown below:
If you notice I replaced a resistor that I thought was bad because it had no resistance, below is a picture of the bad resistor:
I did some color coding and found out it was 30ohms, so I took two 15ohm resistors and made 30ohm, i think the total readout was 30.2-30.4 ohms max. While i was there i notice that a capacitor had blown out, so i replaced that as well, i do not remember what i baught but I got to from radio shack and it was a high capacity than the original, shown below:
Ok so i put everything back together and crossed my fingers, started backing the car down the driveway and i seen the speedo move slightly and i thought nah im seeing things. So I put It in 1st gear and boom I was showing speed! lol. It works great, today if i can get ahold of a GPS im going to try and see how accurate it is vs the GPS.
If it works then go for it, I haven't touched mine since I posted this originally 3 to 5 years ago and it's still fixed. It's a daily driver and has had 60,000 miles put on it since then.
Figured I better jump in and correct this before someone else tries it. The resistor identified as 30 ohm is actually a 3.9 ohm.
If I remembwr correctly the resistor was a 4 band although in the picture it seems to be a 3 band and the color code was ,orange, brown, blue, gold. For what ever reason the shoty camera that I used didn't pick up on of the band, if I still have that old resistor laying around I double check it.
Figured I better jump in and correct this before someone else tries it. The resistor identified as 30 ohm is actually a 3.9 ohm.
Hmm, well I'd be a fool, that darn thing is 3.9ohm. Im very surprised I didn't catch that myself or even go back and check after a few others mentioned it as well. I'm not going to complain though, I haven't had any issues what so ever in 60k miles, maybe one day if it stops working again I'll change it to 3.9ohm but for now it's perfect. The only thing that makes me curious about it is I waunder with a lower resistance if the needle is able to react to speed changes more quickly, this might be a good thing to use a pot on to see how more or less resistance effects the needle.
I replaced the resistor in my speedo board of my 91 RS, it read as open on my multimeter. It looks like a 39 ohm, the white band was flaking off. I replaced it with a 3 watt 39 ohm that I got out of an old tv. Speedo still does not work, the resistor now gets very hot. I have an EBL Flash ECM and speedo works fine from the ecm thru the laptop. Could this mean I have a shorted speedometer or buffer?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
I replaced the resistor in my speedo board of my 91 RS, it read as open on my multimeter. It looks like a 39 ohm, the white band was flaking off. I replaced it with a 3 watt 39 ohm that I got out of an old tv. Speedo still does not work, the resistor now gets very hot. I have an EBL Flash ECM and speedo works fine from the ecm thru the laptop. Could this mean I have a shorted speedometer or buffer?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
The resistor is 3.9 Ohm, NOT 39 Ohm. Also, check for any bad cpacitors. I had to replace one bad cap and the 3.9 ohm resistor.
I replaced the resistor in my speedo board of my 91 RS, it read as open on my multimeter. It looks like a 39 ohm, the white band was flaking off. I replaced it with a 3 watt 39ohm that I got out of an old tv. Speedo still does not work, the resistor now gets very hot. I have an EBL Flash ECM and speedo works fine from the ecm thru the laptop. Could this mean I have a shorted speedometer or buffer?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
The resistor should be 3.9ohm not 39ohm, i beleive i either made a typo or actually put 30ohm on mine when i created the thread. Either way mine still works flawlessly, but still put a 3.9ohm in place as others after me did amd check for bad capacitors as i had to replace one myself. If the ecm is reading mph as it should be that meand that your speed sensor is working and so is your buffer maybe. The speed sensor creates AC (alternating current) and if i remember correctly the speedometer or the ecm receives the ac voltage and turns it into DC (direct current). I will have to lool back at my notes as i havent touched mine since i fixed it.
Last edited by Armored91Camaro; 06-05-2017 at 06:39 PM.
Reason: Typo
I replaced the resistor in my speedo board of my 91 RS, it read as open on my multimeter. It looks like a 39 ohm, the white band was flaking off. I replaced it with a 3 watt 39 ohm that I got out of an old tv. Speedo still does not work, the resistor now gets very hot. I have an EBL Flash ECM and speedo works fine from the ecm thru the laptop. Could this mean I have a shorted speedometer or buffer?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks
Cant start with gold, or atleast i cant find a calc that will let me start gold
hello there, maybe you or someone in this thread can help, i have 92 rs with a 5.0 and t5 that i did the tbi-tpi swap to. it went mostly smooth until i didnt have speedo and vss circuit kept popping up, looked at the diagrams and as you mentioned earlier the wiring was slightly different thanx to the speed buffer box. so rewired it all and eliminated the buffer box. soldered and everything following the manual wiring diagram. my speedo works now but i still get a vss circuit code..rechecked all my work and pins etc all seems to be ok. im kind of lost at this one.have been trying to find a new speedo sensor and no luck either
Dredging up an old thread to ask a question. 92 RS, 305 TBI, Heritage. Speedo and Odometer both inop; cruise control works.
This eliminates the VSS as a source of the problem, correct?
Not being inclined to do a lot of tracking with an ohm meter or soldering, would sending the circuit boards out for repair, or replacing them altogether, generally speaking fix the problem?
I just fixed my 92 heritage last month, it was almost the same issue as with my 91 camaro. I replaced the capacitor and everything started working again. This time I used a 1000uf 16v capacitor. Has had 1800.0 miles since being fixed last month.
Riddle me this batman...my cluster is working except my speedo and odometer. Could you give me an educated guess on that one? It's my 17yr olds 1st car and on the way back from getting the exhaust done we were doing 70 in a 55 and he just didn't think to look at his phones speed app. we got lucky, with getting the shift kit and new rear this week i need to get that fixed. he's chomping at the bit! Thank you! p.s. we checked the gears for speedo in the tranny and they are good. Can that whole piece go bad? Just confused since the other gauges work.
The speed sensor (whole piece) can go bad, best way to tell is to see if the car will shut off at 100 or 105mph, or safe way is to use a drill and make the sensor spin with a voltage meter on AC current. If sensor works the gauge board probably has a bad resistor and or capacitor.
Originally Posted by rushtk
Riddle me this batman...my cluster is working except my speedo and odometer. Could you give me an educated guess on that one? It's my 17yr olds 1st car and on the way back from getting the exhaust done we were doing 70 in a 55 and he just didn't think to look at his phones speed app. we got lucky, with getting the shift kit and new rear this week i need to get that fixed. he's chomping at the bit! Thank you! p.s. we checked the gears for speedo in the tranny and they are good. Can that whole piece go bad? Just confused since the other gauges work.
The speed sensor (whole piece) can go bad, best way to tell is to see if the car will shut off at 100 or 105mph, or safe way is to use a drill and make the sensor spin with a voltage meter on AC current. If sensor works the gauge board probably has a bad resistor and or capacitor.
2 nights ago I took it out to test out the new headers n exhaust and my phone gps speed app said I was at 110 and she was still wanting to run (2.73 gears). Will replace the whole sensor next week. 84.00 from O'Riley thank you for the help.
Now check the sensor with a cordless drill and a voltage meter as well on the AC setting just incase someone has installed a custom prom that disables the 110mph shut off.
Originally Posted by rushtk
2 nights ago I took it out to test out the new headers n exhaust and my phone gps speed app said I was at 110 and she was still wanting to run (2.73 gears). Will replace the whole sensor next week. 84.00 from O'Riley thank you for the help.
Now check the sensor with a cordless drill and a voltage meter as well on the AC setting just incase someone has installed a custom prom that disables the 110mph shut off.
I was able to fix the tach on my 91 RS but then the speedometer started going out intermittently. Now it's at zero more often than anything else. Going to try cleaning up that chip and test all the resistors. I don't remember what it tested at but it's another example of a 3.9 ohm resistor.
I have a Teal 1991 B4C with a bad Speedometer Board that looks like yours, see attached. I have contacted all references in this post, including Hanks, and cannot find one. Does anyone know where to get one?
Did the cleanup on the corrosion on the IC chip beside the capacitor work? Various Pics show the IC as a DE 9023M, CS8945H. Mine is a DB9030M. Does anyone know what this is or where to get one?
Any help finding a Speedometer Board would be appreciated.
My 92 TBI Bird has a working Speedometer but the Odometer/Trip do not work when I first start driving the car, after about 2 kms it starts to work. I swapped out the whole cluster from another 92 and it does the same thing. My question is if the speedometer works, then is it local to the clusters the problem? Does not the speedometer and the odometer use the same signal into the cluster before the circuit board divides the signals? I can't see having two clusters with the same problem....but I'm at a lost trying to figure this out for 2 years now.. Any suggestions what I should look for?
Good, simple repair info. Easy solder job of replacing the resistor and capacitor. I have fixed a non-working speedo in one of my 91s as well as a few for friends with this quick, easy, and simple fix.
The video was the perfect touch, i was already subscrided to your channel from a previous video you have. Alot easier to follow than the thread, simple, to the point of errors and corrections needed. Video was liked.
Does anyone have a copy of the instrument cluster wiring diagram that shows the voltage? I have a 1991 Camaro Rs 305 v8 and I’m replacing my the instrument cluster and I can’t find any diagram of the wiring harness nor know where I could purchase one. Any help is appreciated.
Dang this is an epic thread -- great resources all around for troubleshooting the same symptoms that I'm seeing on my 92 Camaro RS V6 -- no speedo, no odo. I feel like I've hit a bit of a wall in diagnosing but I'm not done yet -- observations below:
I *am* getting a VSS signal at the ECM -- I figured this because I'm not getting a Code 24 but I verified it by using an ALDL output rig that I have which shows my correct speed on its display when driving, even with the speedo dead at 0
The 3.9 Ohm resistor looks good visibly and reads good with the multi-meter
The 25 V 150 uF capacitor looks good visibly and appears to be responding like a "normal" capacitor to the multi-meter. Now, I don't own a fancy LRC meter to make a direct measurement of the capacitance but the steady charging behavior from 0 to infinity Ohms on a multi-meter is indicative of "goodness".
At this point, I've burned through what I can tell are the obvious troubleshooting options. I will most likely proceed with the capacitor replacement, just in case.
Also, I'm suspecting possibly a loose wire or tenuous/dirty electrical connection somewhere -- occasionally I'll look down at the odo and it seems as though it has incremented slightly in the right-most counter. Barring me just going crazy, it may be that the speedo and odo are intermittently "connecting" and then disconnecting, maybe as I'm driving over bumps or general jiggling from operation. This gets hard to diagnose but I'm considering setting up my phone to record the dash while I drive to see if anything happens that I'm missing because my eyes are (mostly) on the road.
I'll be doing a deep clean of as many electrical contacts as I can with some contact cleaner to see if this might help -- maybe I can recruit a friend to jiggle wires behind the dash while I'm driving to see if the speedo kicks on? Not sure about that one...
Dang this is an epic thread -- great resources all around for troubleshooting the same symptoms that I'm seeing on my 92 Camaro RS V6 -- no speedo, no odo. I feel like I've hit a bit of a wall in diagnosing but I'm not done yet -- observations below:
I *am* getting a VSS signal at the ECM -- I figured this because I'm not getting a Code 24 but I verified it by using an ALDL output rig that I have which shows my correct speed on its display when driving, even with the speedo dead at 0
The 3.9 Ohm resistor looks good visibly and reads good with the multi-meter
The 25 V 150 uF capacitor looks good visibly and appears to be responding like a "normal" capacitor to the multi-meter. Now, I don't own a fancy LRC meter to make a direct measurement of the capacitance but the steady charging behavior from 0 to infinity Ohms on a multi-meter is indicative of "goodness".
At this point, I've burned through what I can tell are the obvious troubleshooting options. I will most likely proceed with the capacitor replacement, just in case.
Also, I'm suspecting possibly a loose wire or tenuous/dirty electrical connection somewhere -- occasionally I'll look down at the odo and it seems as though it has incremented slightly in the right-most counter. Barring me just going crazy, it may be that the speedo and odo are intermittently "connecting" and then disconnecting, maybe as I'm driving over bumps or general jiggling from operation. This gets hard to diagnose but I'm considering setting up my phone to record the dash while I drive to see if anything happens that I'm missing because my eyes are (mostly) on the road.
I'll be doing a deep clean of as many electrical contacts as I can with some contact cleaner to see if this might help -- maybe I can recruit a friend to jiggle wires behind the dash while I'm driving to see if the speedo kicks on? Not sure about that one...
If the datalog is seeing speed from the ecm that means the speed sensor is working correctly. Id replace the capacitor first then drive around, if nothing then replace the resistor. If still nothing get a new board and try that, if that doesnt work a new speedo will be needed.
If the datalog is seeing speed from the ecm that means the speed sensor is working correctly. Id replace the capacitor first then drive around, if nothing then replace the resistor. If still nothing get a new board and try that, if that doesnt work a new speedo will be needed.
Well, a quick update — replaced the cap and the resistor and no luck, no speedo or odo when driving.
However, I did notice a couple interesting things on the last drive —
When I turn the key to start the ignition and the dash lights up, I do notice the speedo turn counterclockwise slightly to the peg in order to zero out.
I hear a grinding/squealing from the speedo/odo assembly when I’m accelerating or braking... like things are trying to move but can’t.
Could it be that things might be working electrically now but the needle is rotated too far one way or another? Do I need to reset its rotational position?
I’m wondering if anyone else has experience with this. Thanks!
Well, a quick update — replaced the cap and the resistor and no luck, no speedo or odo when driving.
However, I did notice a couple interesting things on the last drive —
When I turn the key to start the ignition and the dash lights up, I do notice the speedo turn counterclockwise slightly to the peg in order to zero out.
I hear a grinding/squealing from the speedo/odo assembly when I’m accelerating or braking... like things are trying to move but can’t.
Could it be that things might be working electrically now but the needle is rotated too far one way or another? Do I need to reset its rotational position?
I’m wondering if anyone else has experience with this. Thanks!
90-92 have the half moon gauges, the needle should not be able to wrap around a full 360 degrees. If you are hearing noises from the speedo, try some wd40 or 3n1 oil and add to the moving parts of the speedo and odometer. My current 92 camaro did not work either but it was from surface rust on the moving parts that caused the bad capacitor and resistor. I used a little bit of oil and everything started moving at random a couple of days later.
90-92 have the half moon gauges, the needle should not be able to wrap around a full 360 degrees. If you are hearing noises from the speedo, try some wd40 or 3n1 oil and add to the moving parts of the speedo and odometer. My current 92 camaro did not work either but it was from surface rust on the moving parts that caused the bad capacitor and resistor. I used a little bit of oil and everything started moving at random a couple of days later.
06-15-2015, 04:04 PM
and looked for any solder points that were not solid. All tested good. We also cleaned the contacts/plug-in for good measure. 
