How to wire fogs to stay on W/ hibeams?
02-20-2002, 07:54 AM
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Just wait untill your headlight switch becomes toast from doing that. It won't be immediate, but it will eventually happen...
02-20-2002, 07:59 AM
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Yeah I'll try the other way, I still want to be able to turn them off if desired.
Wiring them to the markers would keep them on all the time any lites were on.
Wiring them to the markers would keep them on all the time any lites were on.
02-20-2002, 08:14 AM
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
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Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Not a problem Saywhut.. here's some food for though too bluegrassz...
It's a lovely idea wiring your fog/driving lights that way but, just wait untill your headlight switch becomes toast from doing that. It won't be immediate, but it will eventually happen... could be 2am while you're driving down the highway when you lights start flickering, dash lights flicker & smoke starts comming from your dash.. not that I've had that happen or anything (
) but, don't be alarmed when it happens, you've been warned.
Why would this happen you ask ?, the switch is designed to power a bunch of low watt bulbs that do not draw alot of juice. Adding 2- 35 or 55 watt lights to the circuit is too much of a draw & burns the contacts up in the switch. Unfortunatly, the switch heats up & melts down before the fuse does. Why does this not happen with the headlights on then ? They are powered direct from the terminal off the starter. The headlight switch has a seperate contact for them which goes to the high/low beam switch then to the headlamps themselves.
This is why driving/fog lights come with the minimum supplies to add a switch & make a seperate circuit. If you'd like to keep your design, buy a relay & use the parking lamps to switch the relay on instead of them (the parking lights) being the direct power source for your driving/fog lights
here's something to look over if you want to see for yourself
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/12-0.jpg
It's a lovely idea wiring your fog/driving lights that way but, just wait untill your headlight switch becomes toast from doing that. It won't be immediate, but it will eventually happen... could be 2am while you're driving down the highway when you lights start flickering, dash lights flicker & smoke starts comming from your dash.. not that I've had that happen or anything (
) but, don't be alarmed when it happens, you've been warned. Why would this happen you ask ?, the switch is designed to power a bunch of low watt bulbs that do not draw alot of juice. Adding 2- 35 or 55 watt lights to the circuit is too much of a draw & burns the contacts up in the switch. Unfortunatly, the switch heats up & melts down before the fuse does. Why does this not happen with the headlights on then ? They are powered direct from the terminal off the starter. The headlight switch has a seperate contact for them which goes to the high/low beam switch then to the headlamps themselves.
This is why driving/fog lights come with the minimum supplies to add a switch & make a seperate circuit. If you'd like to keep your design, buy a relay & use the parking lamps to switch the relay on instead of them (the parking lights) being the direct power source for your driving/fog lights
here's something to look over if you want to see for yourself
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/12-0.jpg
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jcurrieirocz
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05-20-2003 09:45 PM
