Blazer79

My brother had started buying parts for this 1986 iroc-z Z28 but he lost interest on it, so I ended up buying everything from him. Here is what I have so far:

The Camaro is a 1986 Iroc-Z with the following:
-MAF style TPI 305 engine
-700r4
-3.42 gears
-Hooker 2055 headers
-Hooker catback system
-tranny cooler

This are the parts I'm getting from him:
-350 that originally came from my 1979 Blazer (2-bolt), already bored and honed .020 over and new cam bearings installed
-Keith Black Silvolite Hypereuctectic #120 flat top pistons
-Total Seal gapless street rings (TSS type)
-Cast crankshaft and rods from the 350 already 0.10 under
-Clevite main & rod bearings
-Crane Cams 216/228, 112 LSA Compu Cam w/ hyd lifters
-Summit true roller timing set G6600
-Milodon 7 quart oil pan w/ milodon pickup (with the dipstick on the right side for the 350)
-Melling high volume oil pump
-ARP Rod bolts
-ARP Main bolts
-Hotchkis subframe connectors
-2700rpm stall B&M torque converter

I'm fixing the Iroc-Z to become my daily driver. So these are my goals in no particular order:

-Keep the TPI.
-Make it as reliable as possible
-Be able to beat any fart sounding ***** (too easy)
-Get descent mileage. I drive mostly in heavy traffic
-Keep it cool (not overheat in traffic)
-Prefer torque and mileage than high-revving monster

The 350 is practically ready for assembly, but before I go ahead, I have a few questions:

1) Is it OK to use the stock rods and crankshaft? Or should I go all the way and get some better rods/crank from, say, PAW or Summit stage I?

2) Is it worth it to balance the crank and rods? Or is this something only for high-revving engines? I don't think I'll be revving over 5000rpms

Now help me pick the missing parts:

1) Gasket set: $40 Felpro or should I get a more expensive one?

2) Valve Springs: Should I just get the recommended springs and retainers from Crane? Or is it OK if I buy cheaper speed-pro ones? I checked the specs and they are close, but not exact.

3) Should I use the heads from the 350 (I think they are the inefficient smogger heads) with about 76cc yielding about 9.5:1 compression or the ones from my 305 which would raise compression to about 10.5:1? Would a set of World Torquer heads be fine for my daily driver application?

4) Should I get a new balancer and flexplate? or use the ones from the 350?

5) I don't think I should use that 2700 torque converter, right? Am I OK with the stock one in the 700r4 right now?

6) Are the Accel 24# injectors fine for the swap? Is there another brand I should look for?

7) I know that 305s and 350s used the same radiator. But would I have overheating problems due to the larger than stock cam?

8) Should I look for a shift kit to make the tranny last longer? The shifts are too slow for my taste.

Any suggestions/flames/critics welcome

Thanks for your help.

Blazer79

ttt

RB83L69

1. The stock crank and rods will be fine; TPI will protect them from ever seeing stress in excess of their design limits. The one thing you could do for added insurance though would be to replace the rod bolts, as used stock ones are famous for just suddenly breaking after re-use, without warning and under no particularly abusive conditions. Just drive down the street and boom! even after thousands of miles on a rebuild. Not a pleasant thing to have happen.

2. Yes, absolutely. If you touch a bottom end and replace anything, it's wise to have that done.

Parts:
1. The FelPre set is fine.

2. If there is any one part you don't need to try to cheap out on in the valve train, it's the valve springs. Cam mfrs won't warranty the cam, or any other valve train part for that matter, if you don't use their recommended springs. Buy the right ones.

3. The truck heads are absolute garbage. They will make that 350 TPI slower than the 305 TPI that it is replacing. The S/R Torquers would be a good choice.

4. Use the flex plate and balander from the 305, unless the flex plate is for a 1-piece rear main seal crank (probably is). The 350 one will be 14" diameter, which will require a different starter than the 305's, and it might cause header clearance issues. If the old 305 was a 1-piece motor, just get a new flex plate for a 83-85 Camaro/Firebird 305.

5. Keep the stall converter. You'll hate a stock one.

6. 24# injectors will probably be too large. You can probably get away with them if you burn yourself a new chip though.

7. No. The cam has nothing to do with overheating. Make sure the radiator is clean, and the space between the A/C condenser and the radiator is free of leaves; and be certain that the lower air dam is good.

8. Yes. Get the TransGo one.

9. The one you didn't ask.... lose the high volume oil pump, and use a stock oil pan for a 77 Camaro 350. You don't need that other stuff, and it offers no benefits whatsoever. However, it does use more HP, and creates more wear on the distributor gear. Instead, get a regular Melling M55, a Melling 55-S screen, a Melling IS-55E oil pump drive shaft with a metal collar instead of the stupid plastic one, and a Mr Gasket 26 pressure regulator spring.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I have that cam. It's a relatively high-reving piece. But, it's still got good low RPM manners. With TPI, it will be even better.

But, as RB hinted, the TPI is going to kill off the top end. Shorter runners, ported plenum (and base wouldn't hurt), and 52mm TB (optional if driver is all you're shooting for) will make for a better match.

I didn't see adjustable fuel pressure regulator. An absolute must. With that, you can keep the 19 lb injectors and it'll have better throttle response and mileage than with 21 or 24 lb'rs, and still support the power.

Ditto RB on the heads. If you keep those factory 350 heads, consider yourself cyber-slapped. Ditto on valve springs, too.

The Torquers are good, but benefit greatly from basic porting - at the very least pocket porting (also called bowl work). The guides are huge within the ports, too - grind/smooth them down.

I don't know how the B&M higher stall converters work in "normal" driving, but in off-the-line, WOT situations, you'll appreciate how it lets the engine get into the powerband. I'm considering a 3000 stall Conti based on how mine acts, but again, TPI will have better low-RPM than carb.

Blazer79

Thanks for your replies!! Stuff like this is what I needed to hear. I'll try to do everything you guys said!

I do have ARP rod and main bolts. I just forgot to list them before.

How would the higher stall converter affect my mileage? Remember it's a daily driver and I will see lots of bumper to bumper traffic.

Thanks again.

RB83L69

The converter's effect on gas mileage is negligible.

OBTW - make sure that your block has the correct inner starter bolt hole. Most older 350 blocks don't, since the 12¾" flywheel / flex plate wasn't used on them. If it doesn't, got it drilled, BEFORE you put the motor in the car. Don't believe anyone who tries to tell you that some starter or other will work because it won't, you'll have to have the right hole.

Blazer79

Thanks. I'll make sure to check that out.

One more question. Would it be OK if I install the 350 heads just during the break-in period (using the recommended Crane springs and all other parts) and a month or two later (when I have the money) swap everything to the new heads?

Check out my other post "Please help me pick the right cylinder heads" https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=212684

Thanks again.

cdartz

I'm no engine rebuilding expert, but I do know that gapless rings on a regular street engine are a bad idea, and totally unnecessary.

kfoley

Gapless rings would be fine, but a set of moly rings would do just fine too. Since he has them, I would go ahead and use them.

It would be ok to use the heads just for break-in, but taking them off and swapping all the hardware will be a pain. I would just use the new ones when you build the motor.

camarodude91

Hey the 350 heads suck but not enough to make the 350 Slowwer than the 305. What the He!! i have a 78 350 four bolt with just a 204/214 cam advanced 4 degrees, edelbrock intake a 600 carb headers and a 700r4 with a shift kit. Plus i have 3.23 gears. I raced a Z/28 with a 305 TPI and kicked his ***, and thats at only 1/2 throttle in first gear, I get no traction because of advancing the cam and the gears, the tires don't help either. I also can keep up just fine with an lt1 car, once again only at 1/2 throttle in first. Any way the small valves will cause even more breathing problems for the tpi. Just get a carb.