dubcity

Ok, I have a 305/carb i want to upgrade but what should i go to? what would be the easiest to complete? I would want to go with a 350 and what if i change to TBI or TPI what else would i need to buy? Or would it be easyer to keep as a carb? Also i have the 5speed its the factory tranny so could that hold with a 350? I have been told it cant but i dont see why not, any advice would be helpful.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The HO carb set up is a pretty good one. I'd keep that if I were you. A 350 would fit and work well right under it.

The T5 will hold up fine behind a 350 as long as you don't do high RPM clutch dumps or speed shift it.

dubcity

What do you mean High RPM? like 5? (mine redlines at 55........As do most others i think)
If i was to stick with the one i have now, what can i do it to "Beef" it up?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You can ease the clutch out at 3 grand, but it's shock that kills T5's.

Try searching the Transmission and Drivetrain forum. Somebody out there makes an upgrade kit for T5's - something like $1300 for the parts, IIRC.

dubcity

oh, damn 3G only? meh mybe I will stick with my 305 till i got money for new tranny also... but mean while what can i do to mine to make it have more power (other then nitro...)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The usual - exhaust, cam, head porting.

You can break a T5 with a 305. Again, it's more the shock thing than power. Of course, the more power you're making, the more shock it can impart. (BTW, those RPM #'s were completely off the cuff - could be more, may be less.)

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

headers are first and foremost. I like what I have, hedman 68470 and the y-pipe 17470. Mopac has them, something like $300 for the pair. Chop the cat, and put in a 3" straight pipe. Stock muffler is ok, but if you want nice sound look at dynomax's single in dual out transverse style... I forget which it is.

Head porting, I did up my 416 heads, and definately am not looking back. If you need the car to get you from A->B, get some heads at the JY, and work on those, while you drive the car. Then swap 'em on when you're ready. I could set you up with some supplies if you want to go that route. PS my heads are off my car right now, if you were interested in seeing them.... not sure of your interest level in porting heads though, it's pretty time consuming.

Cam would be next. compxe 256 or 262 would be good. With a stickshift i'd be more inclined to go higher, since you don't have to mess with stall speed, etc.
Five7 is right with the tranny part. The T5 is notoriously weak, but assuming you don't get a lot of traction, I wouldn't be worried about breaking it yet. When/if you break it, a Tremec Tk600 or whatever would work great in it's place.
I don't really rev up my car and dump the clutch much, I just end up sitting in a cloud of smoke... Chirping 3rd is up there in the coolness factor though. That's hard on *your* trans though.

Nice thing about those upgrades is they swap over nicely to your 350, when you decide to go to one (not if, but when).

dubcity

So for the hedman 68470 and the y-pipe 17470 it costs $300? Im thinking about a Flowmaster 80 series single in dual out ($125 and $75 more for installation) it would only run me about $550 (CAD) but then the pipes, and installation for Everything else 700-800ish? or am I to high or to low?

dubcity

damn after looking at prices for pipeing im thinking im faar to low
but correct me if im wrong, (rember im in canada money is worth a lil less )

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oooh, you're in canada? what a coincidence, me too, where are you at?

Call up MOPAC, on 16th ave NW. Ask them for a price on the two part #'s I listed to you. Double check that both are "ball and socket connection". They should be, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. Ask for a price, and if they have it on the shelf, or how long it'd take to get in, then thank them and hang up. I paid $120 for the y-pipe, a month or two ago. I got the headers from Ryan (305q-ta86 or whatever), for $50. A new set might be in the range of $180.

Total is $300 there. Assuming you install the headers, then take it in to a shop to do up the y-pipe (it's loud, but liveable...)
this is what I did. I forget the place I used, (most shops can't do custom fab exhaust to save their life, don't even ask about minute muffler in crowfoot, those goofs are incompetent...) I think it was a "carline muffler", in the SE... anyway, buddy charged me $240 I think. That included cutting the y-pipe where it necked down, welding in a 3" mandrel bend (mandrel bends are big $, but are worth it, it was $50 for one bend!!), then another 3", 3' long chunk to go back to about the rear seat area, and tie into my existing 3" exhaust that went over the axle.
I left my stock muffler back there, along with the 3" piping the previous owner put in. You can leave whatever you have back there, if money is tight. Your big HP gains are made at the headers and y-pipe. Mufflers don't add a lot of HP unless they're plugged.

dubcity

dang i took a good guess, 715 with prices you said, im guessing 60 more to be safe, $775, damn thats alot of money. Oh and i wouldnt be able to do the headers by myself i have no clue how, another $90

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

headers are easy to install. Time consuming, tough, but not hard as in "where does *This* go???

$775? that's $300 + labor and pipes for the rest? Yea, that's a fair guess I suppose. Exhaust is brutally pricey...

dubcity

lol id just like to find a place to do it all, order parts threw them and them install them, Id like to try but i donno.

another thing, how loud is it? lol

dubcity

What would other recomend? thats Cheap but still good quality? loud, deep agressive tone^^
Would it be cheaper to get a custom fab exhaust likesonix or get a catback from a brand name company?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

ask in the exhaust forum about different exhausts.
Cat backs are like $500 or something, and the main thing is shipping. They're huge, I imagine shipping would be outrageously expensive.
I don't know how much it cost to have my rear piping done, lucky for me the previous owner did it up. Nice job too.

Flowmaster 80 with headers on a SBC is a pretty common sound. Should be able to find somebody locally with that setup, and listen to their vehicle.

dubcity

oh shiat yeah, you didnt get pipeing even mooooore money

Randy82WS7

lol welcome to the world of more HP and bling bling= $$$$$$

not only more work and frustrations

hehe

good luck

85z28iroc

iTrader: (1)

[quote=Sonix]
Head porting, I did up my 416 heads, and definately am not looking back.

I would like more info on just how you did your porting. What size dremel did you use (amps)? What kind of stones did you use? How long might it take to do each head?

I am putting these heads on my stock carbed 350. Will there be a huge difference if I leave the 1.84 / 1.5 valves and not go to 1.94/ 1.6?

Would 1.6 rockers be worth the money on this set-up?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I used a dremel only for a tiny bit. I just used it with a carbide burr, for the really delicate stuff very close to the valve. I got my burrs from

carbidebur.com

I used an electric die grinder for most of the work, I think it was a 200W version. Made a speed controller with a 2 gang electrical box, and a house fan rotary switch. (a light bulb dimmer switch won't work.) Do a search, f-bird'88 posted how to make this many times.

I didn't use any stones at all, IMHO they're not terribly useful. I burned through quite a few burrs though, the 6" long guys are pretty easy to screw up. If you can at all avoid it, use the short ones wherever possible. Ball nose cylinder ones are best. The flame ones are ok, but I didn't use it much, you can't cut with the tip very well at all.

Sanding drums, tapered, and cylinder style are great. I used the cylinder style ones more then the tapered ones actually. They're great stuff to smooth out and blend areas. And they last forever.
I used 1.94/1.5 valves. Again hard to say the diff, but when you're re-doing your heads, you may find your valves to be junk, and have to buy new ones... 1.94's are the same price, you just need to pay for seats to be cut then... I'd say go for that.

I went with 1.6 rockers as well, didn't want to re-use stock, 1.6 is same price as 1.5 so...

Pin the studs for sure though.

85z28iroc

iTrader: (1)

Sure do appreciate the prompt and complete reply.
This board sure is full of knowledgeable people.

dubcity

Lucky for me, sonix lives near me

dubcity

Me and my dad came to figure that my engine needs to be rebuilt atleas within 2 years, now is the question Again do u just dump it and go to a carbed 350? and get a new tranny that can handle it? (instead of my T-5)

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That's probably your best bet. I dunno if you'd want to upgrade your trans now, it's pretty hard on the wallet. Choices there are WC T5 from an '89 and up 3rd gen, T56 from a 4th gen, or aftermarket T5 from Tremec. TKO500 or something.

Rebuilding a 305 is silly, 305 pistons and rings actually cost MORE then 350 parts, since they aren't as common. Pretty hard to justify paying more and getting less.

r0nin89

Hooker 2055's + Ypipe + 3" piping all the way back + flowmaster 40 series cost me about $700. I am installing it in about 2 weeks and will let you know how it sounds

dubcity

Please do

dubcity

where ic calgary could i pick up a 350? should i go new or used?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

your call.
GM goodwrench shortblock crate motors are a pretty good value, but people on here will tell you you can get one for $X, and you'll find out it's close to double. You can call around.

Or call up a rebuilder in town and see if he's got a block lying around he can sell you bare, or build up for you.

Or you can get the block from the pick a part, then tear it down and bring it in for machine work at your rebuilder of choice.

Rod at D&W was who I dealt with, he marks up his prices pretty high for parts though, machine work is all i'd get done there in the future.

Cetus is an option, but I haven't heard good things about them, or Moores. Stephen87Iroc, Sitting bull, or Apeiron may know of other choices.

dubcity

What would be the best choice? in your opinion, with still in mind i couldnt do anything myself. buy a carbbed 350 turnkey engine, or get a old block and get someon to build it up? thanks

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Why can't you do anything yourself? No tools, no garage, no engine stand? No knowledge doesn't count as an excuse.

Thats a tough choice. Price out both and compare. I think 83_camaro_83 was going to get Rod at D&W to build a 350 for him, something like a $3000 total, ~400HP. A comparable crate motor turnkey would be more I'd think. But yea, it depends on what you can/want to reuse on your motor. A locally built shortblock might come with somekind of warrantee, plus it's only a phonecall away if there's a problem, and if it's local and all that. Save on GIGANTIC shipping charges, etc.

But yea, call around and find out.

dubcity

well, i got a job as Mid-Sun Auto and just started today, and saw a new 350 crate in the back and asked him of much they cost n he said 2500 and 4100 installed.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I don't know where midsun is, but $2500 to have one, and installed is pretty good. I'd think closer to $3500 if it's high perf or anything like that.

Keep working, it'll be a good long time before you have that kind of cash

dubcity

Meh, not really i have been savin since i was 13, i got my car it runs perf (other then overheating ) and i am gettin exhaust, rims, paint and ill have enough for everything but i may be a lil low when its time for paint ;p

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

... that all gonna be done by the time you get your license? hahahaa

you plan all that stuff, but are haggling over exhaust prices? Paint is gonna tear you a new one... You plan on having this running in the near future?

dubcity

Oh it does run, runs fine for about 30 minuntes i got a new fan all new hoses flushed everything, and still overheats, my waterpump is good so i think im goin to pick up a rad this weekend and give that a whirl
yeah paint is the biggest thing im tryin to figure where to go, and i was fine with my hood till yesterday i got goin 170ish down someback road and my right louver broke off Lool, so im lookin at a 2inch cowl hood i like them

dubcity

im not really sure where to ask this and dont want to make a new topic, the K&N Xtream Air Flow top, goes on the top of my K&N filter? or on top of the whole housing? i might get one for ***** n giggles see if it does anything. thanks

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yea, I think it replaces your air cleaners lid. I should get one of those, since i'm using the factory cowl hood... hmmm.

As long as your hood insulation isn't sitting on top of your air cleaner, that'll probably help.

dubcity

yeah i think ill get one, its pretty killer since im working at midsun they get deals threw Autovalue and the other day i was in there and we got talking and i mentioned i worked at midsun then he said should get the discount, and it is %40 percent off everything :/

dubcity

Ahh, i was wondering where id be able to get hood insulation mine is a complete mess!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

toss it. It's not doing you a whole lot of good.

dubcity

yeah i guess, so i dont need it? well with the paint on my hood atm im not worried but maybe later id want some, wouldnt I?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

doesn't do much, just makes it a bit quieter outside the front of the car.
Mine is gone. Doesn't suit a hod rod.

dubcity

ok cool ill take it off tommorow then, and get the Xstream thing for fun and is it just the 14"?

85z28iroc

iTrader: (1)

[quote=Sonix;3004075]headers are first and foremost. I like what I have, hedman 68470 and the y-pipe 17470.

I am going to get the same set up for my 350. Are the 68474 Stepped headers worth the extra $$?

(quote=Sonix;3004075)Head porting, I did up my 416 heads, and definately am not looking back.

What kind of CR do you have and do still run regular fuel?

(quote=Sonix;3004075)Cam would be next. compxe 256 or 262.

I am going to use a 268, want to end up with 300+ HP.

Jay87Z

iTrader: (2)

You can get a new one from Modern Day Muscle.

I took it off of my old 87 Z28. I ended up regretting it... the paint went to **** and hearing all the underhood noise just made the car sound cheap to me. I'm keeping it on my IROC.

dubcity

yeah... id keep it on except it hangs done and atm im not worried about the paint on my hood, i dont think it can get much worse....

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

hmm, my hood is burned on my cowl, buddies thought that was due to a carb backfire at some point, perhaps from lack of hood insulation??


I decked the block .010", and ported the heads chambers to 64cc's. See sig. I ended up with 10:1 exactly. That's with a 350 and flat tops. I have the compxe268 as well.

I ran 91 octane, at 4000' elevation here, with a full timing curve. I had a bit of ping at low RPM high load when going WOT.. So I don't do that I'm going to recheck my timing curve, I think i've got too much timing too fast.