drumstixer

Hey all, I'm going to be buying parts for a build soon and I was hoping for some advice on the possible setup. My budget is not very high, so I'm kinda looking for quality get-me-going parts that I can change later.

• The block is a 350 block from an 87 truck or van, will be bored .30 over.
• The crank was destroyed, and the local shop is charging too much to bring it back to use, so I was thinking Eagle103523480.
• I've been going back in forth about buying some used l31 heads, but with machine work I may as well buy new. Either vortec heads, or any ideas on a good junk yard head I could use?
• If I do go vortec, beehive springs and XE268H and lifter kits will be my choice along with a roller timing set (help on choosing this?) with 1.5 roller rockers.
• Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 650 on top.
• Pistons and rods, not too sure yet.
• MSD or Accel distributor and wires, but not sure yet.

Most other parts that came with the engine when I bought it will be reused, except the accessory drive and other various things. As far as what I want out of the engine, just a decent amount of low end torque and power on a streetable vehicle. It will be going in my 91 Firebird that currently has an L03, so I know I will need to do fuel work. I know the fuel pressure regulator is an option and appears to be the "easiest" option, but since I can, any thoughts on a mechanical fuel pump instead? If I do go this route, what exactly would I be getting myself into? Also as far as pistons, I'm not exactly sure which ones to pick. Going for around 9:5:1 CR...also, help with distributors and heads would be cool too.

Engine will be paired with a rebuilt 700r4 that was in an '89 1500 and 3.23 gears. Thanks much!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you're going with Vortec heads and don't have any of the parts yet, I don't know how you can do better than this: http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060raag

Are you going to go with roller lifters? I know the parts are a little more expensive, but to me, it's worth it.

I have both an MSD Pro Billet distributor (requires an ignition box, which I also have) and an Accel HEI distributor with Super Coil (barely used) that are for sale.

Regardless of what you do for a fuel pump, you will be dropping the tank. The LO3 fuel pump isn't up to the task of supplying fuel for an engine with over 300 HP. A TPI pump or something like a Walbro 255 with a return style regulator would be fine.

If you go with an engine mounted mechanical, you need to drop the tank, remove the pump, and modify the pick-up as shown in the sticky on the Carburetor forum. It would be best to use a return-style pump like the factory did for the sake of reducing the possibility of vapor lock. Carter makes a replacement pump that puts out plenty of fuel, p/n M6626. I've been using it on my 350 since 2005 with no problems. Since the factory EFI fuel lines go up the driver side frame rail and the mechanical fuel pump is on the passenger side, you'll need to route the lines over to that side. My Camaro was originally V6, which also had the fuel lines on the driver side, so I just mounted them to the front of the crossmember to get them to the pump - in my opinion, that is a much better routing than what the factory did for carb V8 cars, routing the lines over the transmission and past the exhaust manifold to get them to the passenger side, which is a much hotter environment. You will also need a fuel pump push rod and pump mounting plate, of course.

Atilla the Fun

the XE268H isn't a good match to un-ported Vortec heads.
And for the same money, you should step up to the Eagle 103523750 crank. It means different pistons, and I suggest investing $160 in a set of SUM-17383-30, even if it means the roller rockers must wait.
For this build, wait on choosing a cam until you've finalized everything else. then we'll help you choose a cam.

drumstixer

Thanks 57 and Attila. That SD kit looks exactly like what I'm looking for. As far as the crank and pistons you suggested, what exactly makes this crank better? And would the block need any special machining to accept it other than the bore and hone job already done to it? (I'm not a crank genius at all...) And i can probably hold off on the roller rockers. I plan doing a full roller conversion later this winter or early next spring. Thanks for the input once again.

Atilla the Fun

The advantage is the longer stroke, which requires shorter pistons. It also requires minor block clearancing, but if you're patient, slow and cautious, and if you can pay attention to what you're doing without overthinking, then you can do the clearancing yourself for much less $ than paying for it.
This is virtually free power. What you're doing is building a 383 instead of a 355. The vortec heads, just as they come out of the box, will support a 383 to 450 HP at 5600 rpm. A 355 built for 5600 will do no better than 401 hp with these heads. Same story with torque, which is what makes the car fun.
The 355 will give 428 ft-lbs at 4200, the 383 will give 486 at 4200. Same headers, same intake manifolds for both.
Even the rest of the powerband improves. The 355 gives 385+ ft-lbs from 2600 to 5400 rpm, the 383 gives 437+ in that same range. Note that that's 9 ft-lbs more everywhere than the 355 manages at peak.
You might lose up to 2 mpg, at worst, but your average mileage can be virtually identical. It doesn't affect the weight, nor your insurance, and the cost is so close, it leaves you no good reason to not do it.

drumstixer

You are quite the salesman Attila. You've definitely sold me on the crank. Now I just have a couple more questions...

If I were to go with the 383 setup (which I probably will), I'm thinking a 650 cfm carb just isn't enough to feed it. What kind of carb would you suggest for a street performer with auto trans? AND if I went with the Scoggin-Dickey kit that 57 suggested, what type of cam choice? (Just hypothetically speaking, of course.) I'm assuming a small base circle for clearance? And probably hydraulic flat-tappet for price...

Also, are there any parts I can use from the L03 besides the accessory drive? I need an oil pump assembly and if I can avoid buying new, that's be great.

Thanks again for the help!

Atilla the Fun

Since the 350 block is an '87, and since the LO3 has the roller lifters and stuff, you can go roller cam cheaper than a new COMP HF and new COMP lifters. With proper grinding of the edges of the rods and rod bolts, you can use about any street cam you like. The grinding will need to be done before final crank balancing, however.
I'm no salesman, because I failed to make a commission
You should always install a new oil pump. It's cheap insurance.
Again, picking a cam is for after you've finalized every other detail.
For a carb, I like a Demon custom 750 Annular. But if you decide to do that, you'll need cam specs before calling Barry.

drumstixer

Thanks this sounds good. I will go back and do my research and come up with a finalized setup so we can work it out. Thanks much for all the info and help!