305 to 400 My swap log
#102
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObBROwM0z1M
Finally got the fuel pump to work.
I wonder how long I can run it without fans...
Finally got the fuel pump to work.
I wonder how long I can run it without fans...
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Ok so during the break in process, I guess we did not wire the fans right because they didnt not come in at all... So we just hooked them up directly to the battery to keep them on.
But that did not keep the engine from overheating, the temperature just kept going up.
Now my dad, went to go slowly take the radiator cap off... but there was so much pressure that it basically turned into a frekin hot geyser of antifreeze, so he got burned.... But why was there so much pressure? We are thinking that the thermostat is possibly stuck?
Are you suppose to keep the radiator cap off when you do this process?
But that did not keep the engine from overheating, the temperature just kept going up.
Now my dad, went to go slowly take the radiator cap off... but there was so much pressure that it basically turned into a frekin hot geyser of antifreeze, so he got burned.... But why was there so much pressure? We are thinking that the thermostat is possibly stuck?
Are you suppose to keep the radiator cap off when you do this process?
Last edited by Cerridius; 07-09-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
It probably wasnt an abnormal amount of pressure. the problem with removing the rad cap with the system hot and pressurized is the boiling point goes up as the pressure goes up. you release that pressure and the coolant basically flash boils and you get a sort of steam explosion. did it start boiling into the overflow tank before you tried to remove the rad cap?
#106
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Car: 1988 Camaro sport coupe
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I dont think there was any coolant in the overflow tank.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
then that's a problem - you're probably low on coolant. notice the "min" and "max" lines? it may just have a "max" line - but that's where the coolant should be at. again - check the side of the bottle. some don't say min and max, they just say "hot" and "cold".
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
yea, sounds like you were low on coolant. start the car with the rad cap off and let it get warm enough to open the tstat, then fill the rad, put the cap on, then fill the overflow tank to the appropriate line.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I believe we got it now, my friend wired up the fans correctly and it looks like they come on at about 190' and the temperature stayed at that just at idle haha took it out into the sunshine!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdiXhia0DY0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdiXhia0DY0
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Ok so my brakes are really hard to push to stop the car, I read around that its most likely a vacuum issue with the hose. Does this piece connect to the hose on the master cylinder and then to the back of my carb?
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Also I took my car today to get the exhaust reconnected and get my inspection sticker. After all that was done I started my car and there is a knock under the valve cover. Think possibly a rocker arm came loose?
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
yes, thats the part the connects the brake booster to vacuum source. you should have a port on the carb to hook it to.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Yup it worked. Got the brakes working correctly now. Now I just need to fix that knock under my valve cover. Then I'm going to change my manifold, and make my own C.A.I with a carb plenum utilizing my WS-6 Ram air hood.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Fixed the knock. It was a loose rocker arm. What kind of intake manifold do you guys think I should get. Right now I have a Holley Stripe dominator but I guess whoever had it before messed up one of the thermostat housing bolt holes and its bigger than the other one so that leaks. So i just want to be done with it and get a new one.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Man this project is a PITA should have just kept the 305. 400 keeps overheating to like 230 and stays there even with the dual electric fans going with the dual core champion radiator. Got an oil leak on the front part where the pan meets the timing chain cover. T56 tranny grinds going into 2nd and pops out of 4th sometimes. Wish I had went an LT1 route.
#116
Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I skim your thread and at one point you talk about having 9.5 c/r.What heads did you use and did you if they are not the OEM 400 heads drill the steam holes on the heads that are on there??.The 400's can be hard to cool.You running a 165 stat??.
Some guys say you don't need the stream holes.I suggest you do.220 is very hot for a 400 and I wouldn't run it very long like that.Run the risk of a crack from the head bolt to the steam hole.If you get the overheat issue taken care of,should be a pretty cool build.My two cents worth.
Some guys say you don't need the stream holes.I suggest you do.220 is very hot for a 400 and I wouldn't run it very long like that.Run the risk of a crack from the head bolt to the steam hole.If you get the overheat issue taken care of,should be a pretty cool build.My two cents worth.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
The heads should be stock 400 heads.
#118
Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Maybe the extreme heat wave you guys have been going threw isn't helping you much.I have seen guys use the Ford 14" Crown Vic electric fan successfully.You have to use the relays because it does draw a lot of power.But it does blow one hell of a lot cfm.Because of that it is loud.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Man this project is a PITA should have just kept the 305. 400 keeps overheating to like 230 and stays there even with the dual electric fans going with the dual core champion radiator. Got an oil leak on the front part where the pan meets the timing chain cover. T56 tranny grinds going into 2nd and pops out of 4th sometimes. Wish I had went an LT1 route.
Last edited by N.J.-SLICK-1; 08-20-2011 at 08:38 AM.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Maybe the extreme heat wave you guys have been going threw isn't helping you much.I have seen guys use the Ford 14" Crown Vic electric fan successfully.You have to use the relays because it does draw a lot of power.But it does blow one hell of a lot cfm.Because of that it is loud.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Your Aluminum fan shroud may be over shrouding your radiator, is there a way to mount the fans directly to the radiator without the aluminum shroud, and I know it may sound like a stupid question, but do you have the fans wired correctly to pull air into the radiator from the outside thru the grill? It could be backwards and blowing out the grill?
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
my 406 build has no overheating issues and im still running the stock fan and radiator set up, wonder what could be up with yours, im running steam holes for a fact tho
#123
Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Yeah but he is in a area that has had more 100 degree temps in a row than anyone else.Also I have seen 400 have no problems and another nothing but problems the exact same build.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
yea the 40 days of 100+ temps can cause even good cooling systems to be overwhelmed.
#125
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Well I put a new manifold on. It's about the same as my old one, just a little higher. Think it's mainly the drag strip one. I think my thermostat may be 180, you guys really think I should go with 160, isnt that to low? Here is a few pics of the radiator.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
160 is too low for a street vehicle. 180 is as low as you wanna go. have you burped the radiator?
#127
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
What is burping the radiator? Running it while the cap is off?
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
running while the cap is off, until the thermostat opens. is the rad cap the highest point in ur cooling system? air bubbles, if present, will form at the highest point of the cooling system, and you need to bleed the air off at that point. usually its the rad cap, and running it to operating temp with the cap off removes the air.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Ok I will have to try that. Were taking the transmission out again because of 2nd and 4th having problems
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Ok I found an picture with the valve cover off and the casting number on the head is #333882
So Ya I guess they are stock heads... but I guess by those numbers they are junk eh?
Casting number-333882
Years-70-80
Valve Size- 1.94/1.50
HP Levels used for- 150-180..... lol that sux
Chamber size- 76CC Chambers
Intake flow 137.2 CFM
Exhaust flow 95.4 CFM
Also, here is the block casting number... cant quite make out what it is. 3951511 maybe?
So Ya I guess they are stock heads... but I guess by those numbers they are junk eh?
Casting number-333882
Years-70-80
Valve Size- 1.94/1.50
HP Levels used for- 150-180..... lol that sux
Chamber size- 76CC Chambers
Intake flow 137.2 CFM
Exhaust flow 95.4 CFM
Also, here is the block casting number... cant quite make out what it is. 3951511 maybe?
Last edited by Cerridius; 08-24-2011 at 12:19 AM.
#132
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I got alot of smoke that came out of my exhaust during a video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWqwDG0uVs can't really tell what color that smoke is. Burning oil or blown head gasket?
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I got alot of smoke that came out of my exhaust during a video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWqwDG0uVs can't really tell what color that smoke is. Burning oil or blown head gasket?
blue smoke = burning oil
if i remember correctly.
#134
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
smoke looks white to me. but with it happening on the down side of the reving, it points towards the valve seals leaking oil. did you use new valve seals when you biult the engine? or do you have any bubbles in the rad?
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#137
Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
You know,I like all of you guys "could" suggest a number of tests/checks to narrow it down to what is going on here.We know it is either oil or water.I mean we could leak it down,do hot and cold compression checks,spray the intake with carb cleaner,on and on and on.And in the end,we end up taking it part anyways.So I go so far to try to see what's what and then just take it apart.In every case for over forty yrs,there is a cause and a effect.Nothing replaces a close inspection.Nothing.
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Test for leaking valve stem seals:
1) Rev up the engine. If it smokes after you let off the throttle, you've likely got leaking valve seals.
2) Run the engine to operating temperature. Shut off the engine for 10-15 minutes. Restart. If it smokes when you restart it, most likely you've got leaking valve seals.
Test for water:
1) After the engine has been run to operating temperature and shut off, let it sit and cool completely (like overnight). Pull the spark plugs. If any is wet, you've got coolant leaking into the cylinder.
2) Have the cooling system tested for the presence of combustion gases.
1) Rev up the engine. If it smokes after you let off the throttle, you've likely got leaking valve seals.
2) Run the engine to operating temperature. Shut off the engine for 10-15 minutes. Restart. If it smokes when you restart it, most likely you've got leaking valve seals.
Test for water:
1) After the engine has been run to operating temperature and shut off, let it sit and cool completely (like overnight). Pull the spark plugs. If any is wet, you've got coolant leaking into the cylinder.
2) Have the cooling system tested for the presence of combustion gases.
#139
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Think I finally figured out my alternator not charging problem. Does the tan/white wire coming out of the back require 12+volts when the key is on? I turned the car on and just sat the wire on my positive post on my battery, looked at my gauge and it was above the middle mark, so I think I gots it. Just gotta splice it to a 12volt wire when the key is on. probably going to use the Thick pink wire again :]
#140
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
its the exciter wire so yea, without that the alt doesnt work. if you do wire it to a switched ign source, be sure to wire in a diode inline to keep the alt from feeding back. without it the alt has a chance of feeding back and keeping the dizzy powered which will keep the car running when you turn the key off.
#141
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
What is a Diode? its pretty simple ya, just put it in between?
#142
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Think of it as a one way valve for electricity. It allows the current to flow into the alt through the exciter wire, but not let the alt to send electricity back through the wire when u turn the key off.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Update please..Great thread, and WTG..
#144
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Have not done much because I'm waiting on my transmission to be fixed. 2nd gear grinds and pops out of 4th.
I do have an oil leak right where the oil pan touches the timing chain cover. Suspecting the front seal
I do have an oil leak right where the oil pan touches the timing chain cover. Suspecting the front seal
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Subscribed! I'll be swapping from a 305 one of these days. I always love reading these swap journals. Hope you get all the problems worked out
#146
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
Swapped the junk transmission for a rebuilt one with a warranty suprised when I got it to slide in perfectly in about 10mins. So Tranny in, driveshaft in and torque arm connected.
I plan on filling the transmission through the shifter hole. 4 quarts right?
I plan on filling the transmission through the shifter hole. 4 quarts right?
#148
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
I think all i really got is the alternator and oil leaks. and gotta fix that white smoke coming out of my exhaust. Maybe blown head gasket.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
white smoke is water in the exhaust, which does point to a blown head gasket.
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Re: 305 to 400 My swap log
jeez this is frustrating. stupid 400... Got the Alternator charging perfectly voltage is right at 13 all the time on the gauge. Transmission shifts like butter all gears work.
But 3 problems. Car sits real low lol, gotta be careful. Then the 2 big ones. seems like oil is leaking from everywhere, back of the engine between the pan and bellhousing. and the front of the engine right where the oilpan touches the timing chain cover. And the other big one, Car still overheating thought since the alternator would be working, the fans would work better. but the car still gets to hot. I'm wondering if my temperature gauge "Nipple" part is in the right place. ill get a pic
But 3 problems. Car sits real low lol, gotta be careful. Then the 2 big ones. seems like oil is leaking from everywhere, back of the engine between the pan and bellhousing. and the front of the engine right where the oilpan touches the timing chain cover. And the other big one, Car still overheating thought since the alternator would be working, the fans would work better. but the car still gets to hot. I'm wondering if my temperature gauge "Nipple" part is in the right place. ill get a pic