Thanks, that helps alot.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObBROwM0z1M

Finally got the fuel pump to work.

I wonder how long I can run it without fans...

 

sounds sick dude

 

Ok so during the break in process, I guess we did not wire the fans right because they didnt not come in at all... So we just hooked them up directly to the battery to keep them on.

But that did not keep the engine from overheating, the temperature just kept going up.

Now my dad, went to go slowly take the radiator cap off... but there was so much pressure that it basically turned into a frekin hot geyser of antifreeze, so he got burned.... But why was there so much pressure? We are thinking that the thermostat is possibly stuck?

Are you suppose to keep the radiator cap off when you do this process?

 

It probably wasnt an abnormal amount of pressure. the problem with removing the rad cap with the system hot and pressurized is the boiling point goes up as the pressure goes up. you release that pressure and the coolant basically flash boils and you get a sort of steam explosion. did it start boiling into the overflow tank before you tried to remove the rad cap?

 

I dont think there was any coolant in the overflow tank.

 

then that's a problem - you're probably low on coolant. notice the "min" and "max" lines? it may just have a "max" line - but that's where the coolant should be at. again - check the side of the bottle. some don't say min and max, they just say "hot" and "cold".

 

yea, sounds like you were low on coolant. start the car with the rad cap off and let it get warm enough to open the tstat, then fill the rad, put the cap on, then fill the overflow tank to the appropriate line.

 

I believe we got it now, my friend wired up the fans correctly and it looks like they come on at about 190' and the temperature stayed at that just at idle haha took it out into the sunshine!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdiXhia0DY0

 

Ok so my brakes are really hard to push to stop the car, I read around that its most likely a vacuum issue with the hose. Does this piece connect to the hose on the master cylinder and then to the back of my carb?

 

Also I took my car today to get the exhaust reconnected and get my inspection sticker. After all that was done I started my car and there is a knock under the valve cover. Think possibly a rocker arm came loose?

 

yes, thats the part the connects the brake booster to vacuum source. you should have a port on the carb to hook it to.

 

Yup it worked. Got the brakes working correctly now. Now I just need to fix that knock under my valve cover. Then I'm going to change my manifold, and make my own C.A.I with a carb plenum utilizing my WS-6 Ram air hood.

 

Fixed the knock. It was a loose rocker arm. What kind of intake manifold do you guys think I should get. Right now I have a Holley Stripe dominator but I guess whoever had it before messed up one of the thermostat housing bolt holes and its bigger than the other one so that leaks. So i just want to be done with it and get a new one.

 

Man this project is a PITA should have just kept the 305. 400 keeps overheating to like 230 and stays there even with the dual electric fans going with the dual core champion radiator. Got an oil leak on the front part where the pan meets the timing chain cover. T56 tranny grinds going into 2nd and pops out of 4th sometimes. Wish I had went an LT1 route.

 

I skim your thread and at one point you talk about having 9.5 c/r.What heads did you use and did you if they are not the OEM 400 heads drill the steam holes on the heads that are on there??.The 400's can be hard to cool.You running a 165 stat??.
Some guys say you don't need the stream holes.I suggest you do.220 is very hot for a 400 and I wouldn't run it very long like that.Run the risk of a crack from the head bolt to the steam hole.If you get the overheat issue taken care of,should be a pretty cool build.My two cents worth.

 

The heads should be stock 400 heads.

 

Maybe the extreme heat wave you guys have been going threw isn't helping you much.I have seen guys use the Ford 14" Crown Vic electric fan successfully.You have to use the relays because it does draw a lot of power.But it does blow one hell of a lot cfm.Because of that it is loud.

 

Any leak within your cooling system is going to lead to overheating, check your thermostat it may be sticking closed or just install a new 160* unit, I would swap that Strip Dominator for a Performer RPM, and you may have to bite the bullet and get a better radiator from Griffin or Modine, and another question, do you still have the deflector under the front spoiler? Because without that it will over heat no matter what you do, it is a very important part of your cooling system for a camaro, and I was under the impression you assembled this motor or at least had the heads off, that way you would know if those were the original heads, complete with steam holes or some other heads that may not be drilled for a 400 block to aid in the cooling, this is something you need to check, so pull a valve cover and get a part number and see if it checks out? Good Luck Bro.

 

Hey that fan is awesome, probably the same as the Ford Taurus fan. Better than most aftermarket fans by far. For your thermostat housing, rtv should seal it right up. Just check for leaks afterwards. You could always use a tap and die set on it too and install a larger bolt.

 

Your Aluminum fan shroud may be over shrouding your radiator, is there a way to mount the fans directly to the radiator without the aluminum shroud, and I know it may sound like a stupid question, but do you have the fans wired correctly to pull air into the radiator from the outside thru the grill? It could be backwards and blowing out the grill?

 

my 406 build has no overheating issues and im still running the stock fan and radiator set up, wonder what could be up with yours, im running steam holes for a fact tho

 

Yeah but he is in a area that has had more 100 degree temps in a row than anyone else.Also I have seen 400 have no problems and another nothing but problems the exact same build.

 

yea the 40 days of 100+ temps can cause even good cooling systems to be overwhelmed.

 

Well I put a new manifold on. It's about the same as my old one, just a little higher. Think it's mainly the drag strip one. I think my thermostat may be 180, you guys really think I should go with 160, isnt that to low? Here is a few pics of the radiator.

 

160 is too low for a street vehicle. 180 is as low as you wanna go. have you burped the radiator?

 

What is burping the radiator? Running it while the cap is off?

 

running while the cap is off, until the thermostat opens. is the rad cap the highest point in ur cooling system? air bubbles, if present, will form at the highest point of the cooling system, and you need to bleed the air off at that point. usually its the rad cap, and running it to operating temp with the cap off removes the air.

 

Ok I will have to try that. Were taking the transmission out again because of 2nd and 4th having problems

 

Ok I found an picture with the valve cover off and the casting number on the head is #333882

So Ya I guess they are stock heads... but I guess by those numbers they are junk eh?

Casting number-333882

Years-70-80

Valve Size- 1.94/1.50

HP Levels used for- 150-180..... lol that sux

Chamber size- 76CC Chambers
Intake flow 137.2 CFM
Exhaust flow 95.4 CFM

Also, here is the block casting number... cant quite make out what it is. 3951511 maybe?

 

A constant stream of bubbles is a crack head,blown head gasket.That would make it over heat.

 

I got alot of smoke that came out of my exhaust during a video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWqwDG0uVs can't really tell what color that smoke is. Burning oil or blown head gasket?

 

black smoke = carbon build up
blue smoke = burning oil

if i remember correctly.

 

smoke looks white to me. but with it happening on the down side of the reving, it points towards the valve seals leaking oil. did you use new valve seals when you biult the engine? or do you have any bubbles in the rad?

 

That matches. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...g-numbers.html

 

I haven't seen everything, but I've never seen coolant only under high vacuum.

 

You know,I like all of you guys "could" suggest a number of tests/checks to narrow it down to what is going on here.We know it is either oil or water.I mean we could leak it down,do hot and cold compression checks,spray the intake with carb cleaner,on and on and on.And in the end,we end up taking it part anyways.So I go so far to try to see what's what and then just take it apart.In every case for over forty yrs,there is a cause and a effect.Nothing replaces a close inspection.Nothing.

 

Test for leaking valve stem seals:

1) Rev up the engine. If it smokes after you let off the throttle, you've likely got leaking valve seals.
2) Run the engine to operating temperature. Shut off the engine for 10-15 minutes. Restart. If it smokes when you restart it, most likely you've got leaking valve seals.

Test for water:

1) After the engine has been run to operating temperature and shut off, let it sit and cool completely (like overnight). Pull the spark plugs. If any is wet, you've got coolant leaking into the cylinder.
2) Have the cooling system tested for the presence of combustion gases.

 

Think I finally figured out my alternator not charging problem. Does the tan/white wire coming out of the back require 12+volts when the key is on? I turned the car on and just sat the wire on my positive post on my battery, looked at my gauge and it was above the middle mark, so I think I gots it. Just gotta splice it to a 12volt wire when the key is on. probably going to use the Thick pink wire again :]

 

its the exciter wire so yea, without that the alt doesnt work. if you do wire it to a switched ign source, be sure to wire in a diode inline to keep the alt from feeding back. without it the alt has a chance of feeding back and keeping the dizzy powered which will keep the car running when you turn the key off.

 

What is a Diode? its pretty simple ya, just put it in between?

 

Think of it as a one way valve for electricity. It allows the current to flow into the alt through the exciter wire, but not let the alt to send electricity back through the wire when u turn the key off.

 

Update please..Great thread, and WTG..

 

Have not done much because I'm waiting on my transmission to be fixed. 2nd gear grinds and pops out of 4th.

I do have an oil leak right where the oil pan touches the timing chain cover. Suspecting the front seal

 

Subscribed! I'll be swapping from a 305 one of these days. I always love reading these swap journals. Hope you get all the problems worked out

 

Swapped the junk transmission for a rebuilt one with a warranty suprised when I got it to slide in perfectly in about 10mins. So Tranny in, driveshaft in and torque arm connected.

I plan on filling the transmission through the shifter hole. 4 quarts right?

 

Did you ever get your engine problems fixed? Im in the process of putting a 400 in my Trans Am, like your build man!

 

I think all i really got is the alternator and oil leaks. and gotta fix that white smoke coming out of my exhaust. Maybe blown head gasket.

 

white smoke is water in the exhaust, which does point to a blown head gasket.

 

jeez this is frustrating. stupid 400... Got the Alternator charging perfectly voltage is right at 13 all the time on the gauge. Transmission shifts like butter all gears work.

But 3 problems. Car sits real low lol, gotta be careful. Then the 2 big ones. seems like oil is leaking from everywhere, back of the engine between the pan and bellhousing. and the front of the engine right where the oilpan touches the timing chain cover. And the other big one, Car still overheating thought since the alternator would be working, the fans would work better. but the car still gets to hot. I'm wondering if my temperature gauge "Nipple" part is in the right place. ill get a pic