N.J.-SLICK-1

I blew two converters and that is EXACTLY how they blew, nothing but neutral in all gears and whining, one converter lasted only three Launches or 5 minutes after installation before it went, the one before it lived 2 years before that! What you describe is a failed Torque Converter Bro, replace it and you'll be happy, look at a B-M or TCI 11inch unit for you application and you'll be happy.
As a side note: please check the TV cable and make sure it's adjusted properly if it is equipped with one since this is a 4l60e/700r4 type trans.

Cerridius

Took the 88 out today. Drove perfect. Shifted through all 6 gears. Idled well. Temp never went past 190 lookin good! Just gotta make the fan turn on when it reaches a certain temperature and not by a switch. Could use bigger gears than 3.08 in the back I think. Seems like I have to ride the clutch to long to get out of first.

Cerridius

Wouldn't a messed up torque converter send metal through the transmission? I'm not sure if I should just try to replace the torque converter or do a whole rebuild.

I'm almost done with my 3rd gen. Then I'll have to get my 4th gen in the garage and fix her up. having to drive my 94 v6 camaro now lol. I had 3 inoperable Camaros. Bad battery in my 94 v6 fixed that. And the 88, my project. Now I'm just down to 1, the z28 lol

travis401

iTrader: (1)

do you have any of the fan relay or wiring for it there? if not i can show you how i rigged mine with a $5 spdt relay with option of a switch override.

Cerridius

Im going to use a switch I bought for $17, temperature sensor goes inside the radiator hose, then you wire the switch to a 12+volt key source and then the other one to the fan power one and ground the fan.... I think.... Do you know where the wiper wires are?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

ive never seen anything like that. they way i did it is identical to stock, just with non stock off the shelf parts. you need a temp switch (can use stock or one that turns the fans on sooner) a spdt relay and a bit of wire. you wire the relay to a bat source and a switchd 12 source and the fan, then the relays ground wires into the temp switch. when it gets to temp the switch grounds the relay and the fan kicks on. it allows you to wire in both a manual switch over ride and an override for the ac to kick the fan on when you turn it on.

Cerridius

I dunno my dad wanted me to use this set-up but there really is not anything left to do on my 88 now. Gonna sell my 94 v6 to fix up my 94z28 now.

I'll post videos of the 88 running soon. Maybe driving to since we got a go-pro now.

Cerridius

88's tachometer is pegged at 7k rpm. Dunno why all of the sudden, maybe the resistor in the back exploded.

On my 94 z28 whats a good stall converter. The engine is basically stock, I dont want a huge stall just one thats better than stock. I was thinking maybe this stall converter if it fits http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70419/...34#moreDetails or maybe a 2000 stall or maybe even more stall? like http://www.monstertrans.com/store/pr...52dLockup.html

Sheppard

dont forget about those videos of your 88, im planning on a 400 swap into my 84 trans am, just needs to finish building my 400 first, but going to school kinda took a hit to my bank book, cant wait to see your videos dude, congrats, hope everything worked out good!!!!

Cerridius

I'll see if I can get some today for you guys. I get off work at 2. Then have nothing to do so I'll get an exhaust video and some other stuff.

Cerridius

Here is the video my girlfriend made of my 88 exhaust. http://youtu.be/OpHIUbA3N-A

Sheppard

wow, that car sounds amazing, congrats man, keep her shining

02 camaro

Looks great. How is it running with the aluminum heads? and all together? Big improvement over the 305?

Cerridius

Have not really drove it much because it has a big oil leak in the front. It definetly needs the rear gears changed i believe.

Cerridius

Here is an update for everyone, So far I took my intake manifold and RTVed the CRAP out of each side. So no oil leak there. Today i fixed my big front oil leak which was caused by a loose timing chain cover!!! Glad it was that simple. But there is still a SMALL oil leak in the back dripping off the rear oil pan. Ill have to see where its coming from tomorrow. Looking good so far, gonna save up and put them 4.10s in.

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Sweet.

5spd-iroc

nice im finally gonna order dyno dons headers, install my fan controller, new carb, new starter, plug wires, clean up engine bay, corvette spyder rims, cowl hood, and finish exhaust then its off to paint, so much work yet to do lol i feel your pain

Cerridius

There is one thing that's odd about the car. When I turn the car off and take the key out. It will still run for a second or two and then the engine will turn off. Also seems like my alternator is not charging. It was before. I don't see why not anymore. I didn't touch the wires, maybe it's going out.

ASE doc

Where is your idle speed set? Two things that cause dieseling are: too high idle speed, too much ignition advance(causes higher than normal cylinder temps and auto combustion after ignition is shut down).

Use a 12v test light to check for power at the alternator's large wire with the key off. Should have power there. If not check the circuit to the battery or starter(broken fuse link?) With key on, check for power at the small wires. If no power, check the charge fuse in the fuse panel. If all wires have power as they should, replace the alternator.

Cerridius

Whats idle speed? If that is my rpm at idle its about 800. and my timing is at 12' before TDC.

I was going to test the wires but my test light broke -_-

This was only happening recently, forgot when. Ill run to the store and get another test light and check my alternater at autozone.

Cerridius

The big wire on the back of the alternator has power with key off and the smaller te wire that is on the pigtail that goes to the starter has power with the key off.

Brown and white stripe wire on the pigtail has power when key is on. Brown wire on pigtail is not getting anything.

Alternator checked out the same.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

if the alt isnt wired right it will back feed voltage to the dizzy while its spinning down keeping it running. easiest way to fix that is to use a diode on the 12v power feed on the pigtail to isolate it.

Cerridius

I have the 12+ source wired into a yellow wire that is basically wired into my pink ignition wire which is on my distriubtor. Should I wire it somewhere else?

and ya that makes sense how since it is still spinning it sends voltage.

ASE doc

You just answered your own question. The pink wire is ignition+(key on) from the ignition switch. You need to wire the alternator output to batt+. The alternator is feeding your distributor even with the key off, until the alt field winds down. That is also making it very hard for your alt to charge the battery. Having to feed back through the ignition circuit.

Find charge circuit wiring diagrams by searching here on TGO. I uploaded a bunch of my 87 factory electrical supplement last year. You should find the link through your search. The basic charge circuit is about the same on all pre-OBDII GMs.

Idle speed of about 800 is okay for a modified engine. Stock V8 should idle around 650. 12degrees advance is also a good idle setting for a modified engine. We go up from there depending on how much overlap, or lope, the cam has.

Cerridius

I put the alternator charging wire on a different 12+ ignition wire. I think my dieseling is being caused by my carb. The butterfly won't move at all on it.

Well nevermind, I guess it opens fully and stays open when the car is hot.

I think my dieseling is caused by my car running too rich. Maybe I need higher octane gas.
Also I can never get the car to start when the timing is at 12before TDC i have to retard the timing. Maybe I have it stabbed in wrong.

Cerridius

Ok. Making progress... Put the engine at TDC and took the distruibtor cap off and it wasnt pointing at the number 1 cylinder, it was pointing straight towards the radiator. So i fixed that... Car starts up pretty easy now, dont even have to give it gas.

Also found out why my car is "dieseling" it is not the alternator. I unplugged my alternator and turned the car off and it still did it.

Found out, its my fans. Thats why the car only does it when its hot and not cold. Disconnected the fan, turned the car off and it turned right off. I think I need to put the fan wire somewhere else because I think its going to my 12+volt ingnition wire to... lol

Edit: put the fan wire somewhere else. Car no longer "diesels"

1985WS6TA

On the subject of your 94Z, One of the best converters you can buy is a Yank SS3600 Stall. Really wakes up the car like you wouldnt believe.

Cerridius

Haha I was wondering how you knew I was looking for a stall converter than realized I posted it up top. And yes that's exactly what I'm looking for. A yank SS 3600. Can't really buy one till I sell my wheels though. Chrome 94 z28 wheels and tires.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

same concept as the alt. the fan spinning will generate a small current after you kill the engine keeping the ignition running for a few seconds.

Cerridius

yup, and its fixed now. All is good except for teeny oil leaks. Oil coming from the back is coming from my distributor, I cant get the hold down clamp any tighter but its just a tad bit.

Front is leaking again too, but its just a tad bit as well. Think i need to put RTV on the timing chain bolts.

Gonna take the car in soon to get the rear end changed to 4.10 from 3.08, frekin gears last so long i cant even use 6th gear on the highway because it bogs the engine down so much. Now im just trying to clear out my garage of old parts like Panhard bar, LCAs, My rear window louvers springs and stuff like that.

Cerridius

Ok so it seems like the car is having trouble starting
When it's been run for a while. Starts fine cold. But someone told me that my starter is getting heatsoaked from my headers not allowing the solenoid to work right.
Causing te car not to start up.

Sound right? How should I fix this? Heat shield header wrap? Aluminum tape?

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

I had the heat soak problem as well... My answer was to buy a high torque mini starter, a local generator shop hooked me up with an ACDelco built for mid 90's trucks, and it came with a metal shield that snaps on over the solenoid. Just gotta have the right mounting pattern (my 400 already had a straight starter pattern drilled, but 400's came with staggered bolt starters). Funny thing is, I don't even use the heat shield and my edelbrock headers get wayyyyy hot, but the new starter works perfect hot or cold.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

By the way, I did the same thing with the distributor, but i'd advise just doing the tdc and aiming the rotor at the number 1 spark terminal JUST so you can drive the car to a shop and immediately have it set properly with a timing light... I too ran my car a while by the basic install method but later found out that my timing was off, close enough to run, but incorrect enough to screw things up if left alone. We set mine at 8° btdc, which was the stock setting for my application. I may advance it sometime down the road.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

x2 on the mini starter

Cerridius

I have a high torque mini starter. maybe Its something else because it still turns the engine but the car will just keep turning, may still be a timing issue or the carb might need some adjustments.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

If you're cranking fine, but not firing, then i'd say you're boiling gas out of the carb when you shut it off...a carb spacer will help, I used a 1 inch phenolic 4 hole spacer.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

My setup has LS1 cooling fans, hayden fixed fan switch, edelbrock intake, edelbrock 1411 carb (750 cfm with electric choke), 1 inch carb spacer, and a poorly chosen full race camshaft (operating range 3500-6500 rpm). Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. I had all of the problems mentioned earlier, it boils down to having components that help eachother out rather than just solving a single problem. With 400's it does help to have a quality cooling system, it seems that 350's and 305's are super forgiving towards less professional fixes (single cooling fan wired to run all of the time is a good example). I went through a lot of trial and error and it's as simple as starting with the easiest issues first... I would definitely hit it with a timing light first and go from there. Hope this is informative.
John

Cerridius

I put the timing at 12btdc but it won't start while
It's hot so I have to increase the timing to start it. The cooling system is fine. I have a 3 row aluminum champion radiator with a big crown Victoria fan. The car stays at
190.

Really? You think a carb spacer will do it?

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

Hit the carb with a temperature gun when you've reached your hottest temp. I didn't do this prior to installation of my spacer, so my frame of reference isn't available, but with a spacer, there's at least a 30 degree difference between my intake and my carb now. It's a cheap, quick mod so it can't hurt, but I do have a cowl hood (daytona) for clearance. I have yet to perfectly fix my heat issues but the spacer did make a big difference

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

It at least sounds logical that you may be dumping raw fuel down the intake, which will temporarily foul your plugs as well, on top of leaving your float bowls empty...12 btdc is what I will attempt next if I keep running into trouble myself. I still take about 3 seconds of cranking to start when i'm fully w
Warmed up but I won't bother with that.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

Feel free to text me if you want, just don't call, i've got severe hearing loss ;o) (413) 719-3249

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

Crap...412....not 413!

Cerridius

I bought a spacer. But it's an autozone specter
Aluminum one so I think it did nothing. I'm going to look into getting a wooden one?
Was also reading about hear crossovers on the heads and manifold. I don't remember if mine are plugged or not, or even if they have them.

Oh and I think I burned out my starter.

Edit: my heads dont have the heat crossover not sure if the manifold does but I don't think it would matter since the heads don't.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

Which manifold do you have? I'm running an edelbrock 2701 which has a heat riser and my stock gm heads have the port. I'm gonna upgrade to an edelbrock rpm air gap 75013 which I believe doesn't have the heat ports. Aluminum spacers transfer more heat than phenolic or wood. I chose phenolic because it works well and won't ever soak with gas like wood can.

Cerridius

My heads don't have the heat crossovers. My manifold is the edelbrock rpm performer. And ya I'm going to look into getting a phenolic spacer and maybe even a heat shield.

ViperineWaters

iTrader: (1)

I ordered my spacer from summit for like $30...ships fast and they have better prices...heat shield shouldn't be needed, mock one up with folded aluminum foil first, at least I would

Cerridius

I'll get it from jegs later. There my favorite fast shipping and good return policy's. Andya good idea about the foil.

Cerridius

I drove the 88 60 miles today to grapevine for the NTTGA surprisingly the car started up fine hot... Maybe the old starter absorbed a lot of heat because if was
Chrome. But I definitely need new gears in the back the whole time on the highway I was basically in
4th.

Cerridius

Update- 400SBC spun multiple bearings. I dont know why but It only lasted like a 100miles. I dont know why, maybe the dude I bought it from assembled it drunk. Im just to trusting in people i guess.

So my dad and I are tired of all the problems and just having a 383 shortblock assembled and using our 400's top end. Bascially going to have a Turnkey 383 in 3 weeks.

I think this means I wont be needed my Centerforce 700107 so I will probably be selling it.

Oh well... I learned alot though, through everything

Cerridius

Anyone have a suggestion on making my cars front end sit a little higher? And do y'all think with my hooker 2460 shorty
Headers, will it choke my 450hp 383?