sk8r fer life

So i want to do a swap but for now I'm just going to a build it up a bit since it needs new gaskets anyways. I'm shooting for 300-350 hp and tq.

To start off with it is the LO3 tbi has about 121,xxx miles on it, please DO NOT tell me to swap engines I am only going to build the 305, I will not change my mind on this. (plus when I will eventually pull it and throw it into something else when I do the lsx swap in a few years).

The bottom end will remain stock and this is the setup I was thinking of, similar to one I was reading about.

The Part List:
Cam - http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ory_Code=HFTXE
Rockers - http://www.compperformancegroupstore...e=SBCNEWRocker
Springs - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-26918-12/
Timing chain - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-2100/
Lifters - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-850-16/
Gaskets - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-3140E915/
Heads - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NA...8060/?rtype=10
Intake - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-75164/
Dizzy - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8366/
Wires - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-31389/
Plugs - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-7164/
Ignition - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6425/

Or could go with this for the top end - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-08-0034/

So should I use the tbi unit I have now or do a carb swap? Any ideas?

As for exhaust I was thinking -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-72C1336/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-16820HKR/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-36019/

This is what I have so far, do think this would be a decent build? Also what else should I change out or replace?

Keep in mind this will be mostly street setup, with occasional drag and autoX. Any ideas on how I should approach this or different build ideas?

crytical point

If your gonna use those heads then you should replace your pistons with some flat tops and replace all your bottom end bearings and seals.... And I would suggest reading http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...cks/index.html

I would really suggest a cam designed for higher rpms since thats where the 305 likes to be also using the stock pistons with 64cc heads will drop compression and flat tops will put you in the 10:1 area

sk8r fer life

Thats where I got the idea lol. What Flat top pistons would you suggest? The cam is the same as they had in that build, also is there a kit that has all the bottom end bearings and seals?

sk8r fer life

Also could I use a setup like this on the 305?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2098/

And this rotating kit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13101L03068/

Fallen2603

This could prove informative as well:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...et_system.html

torque_is_good

here's where you get po' d but need to hear it. You aren't looking to do a stock rebuild. You want performance

I did the math just on the top end and bottom end pieces and it came to over $2350 and that is before machine work. You still need to have the block checked, probably bored, cleaned, decked,since you are going for performance and new crank then align honed, new cam bearings. You are looking at around $400 minimum for machine work. So, that brings you to $2750 without induction and you must assemble it yourself. Yes, it sounds way cool to do that and to be able to tell others. Do you have the correct tools to install cam bearings? How about have you installed rods and pistons without damaging anything? Have you pressed pistons onto rods before? That's a lot of money to spend to learn on the job.

Why don't you look at the Goodwrench 350 long block which is on sale for $100 off so it's now at $1899 and they claim 290 HP with headers. Heck, change the camshaft and you'll get more.

It's cost benefit analysis time for you, not some stubborn concept that "you made up your mind".

So, if the project is real, and not just shopping and dreaming, and you like to hold onto your money, the clear path is obvious

Oh, if you have a 700R4, kiss it goodbye so be siure to budget for a rebuild. hey, I know where to find the money since you were planning on spending $3k just for the engine before induction

Guest

If you're gonna stay 305, hook at these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STL-H534CP/
And since you're already set up for Hydraulic Roller, look at these:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=199&sb=2
or
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=200&sb=2
I'm no expert on choosing cams, but I selected those 2 cams because of their lift, your chosen heads, and your stated goals. And because I'm no expert, I chose 2 so the final choice is up to you.
You will need to get the heads milled for compression.

crytical point

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...-200/?rtype=10 since your wanting to keep it cheap as possible but I would say go carb to really enjoy this set up. The TBI would need new injectors, adapter plate, EBL, and ALOT of tuning so its not worth it in my opinion.

sk8r fer life

torque_is_good: I hear you on the pricing those were just examples of curiosity but thanks, I am trying to do a budget for it but I am trying to weigh out options as well.

ronnjonn: are you saying stay with the vortech top end and use those pistons and choice of cam? Also what would the heads be milled for?

crytical point: thanks for that kit suggestion, and I agree it most likely will be swapped to a carb unless I find a few more dollars and get a holley tbi with the tuners probably won't though

how would the emissions crap on the engine work if I were to strap on a summit 750? or does it not matter if a do a carb swap?

Guest

Yes. Flat-tops and 64 cc heads is about 9:1, with FelPro steel-shim head gaskets. Mill the Vortec heads to 59 cc, that's around 9.5:1, same as the '83.5-'86 L69 305s. I wouldn't try any less than that, even with the smaller of the 2 cams I linked.
Further, the larger the cam, the looser the torque converter needs to be, and the more cruise RPM it needs, so more rear gear. Like 2500 vs 3000, and like 3.73:1 vs 4.10:1

crytical point

You are already eliminating the EGR so I would get rid of the AIR system as well and shave some weight. Just get a good high flow cat and some normal shorty headers and do away with all the clutter in the engine bay. Unless you HAVE to pass emissions where you live then I wouldn't worry about it.