lilman0883

so i got the car with the motor(305 cfi) and tranny pulled which is a 700r4. the motor is bad but i have all the parts. i have 4 bolt 010 block 350 bored over .30 with 305 vortec heads and intake with an edelbrock carb. i have lots of questions. anything will help. can i use the original distributor, and what all do i have to do with he wiring. Ive heard you have to wire up a switch for the transmission. and i also need to know what kind of exhuast manifolds i need you can comment or text me 918 813 5564

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No. You need one with vacuum advance.

Nothing, really; if you CAREFULLY and GENTLY, WITHOUT CUTTING ANYTHING, peel every wire back that comes out of the harness emerging from the right fender well near the blower motor, you can remove it from the car INTACT AND UNHARMED. Then if you take off the right kick panel, you'll see where that harness comes through into the cabin, and goes to the computer. You can remove all of that WITHOUT CUTTING ANYTHING and put it in a box and store it in case someday you ever need it. Or, sell it to someone whose car has been sodomized by someone who thinks that every wire needs to be cut, for whatever reason idiots think that.

Did I mention, you should forget you even own a pair of dykes, and don't cut ANYTHING? If not, let me make it clear that you don't need to cut ANY wires WHATSOEVER for ANY reason at ANY time in ANY way, you can remove them without destroying ANYTHING and retain their value.

Yes you will need a "lockup kit" of some sort for the torque converter. There's kits you can buy that make it real easy.

YOu need exhaust manifolds, or preferably headers, from a small block Chevy, that fit a F body. By an amazing coincidence, the ones you have happen to be just that. However they choked the 305 that was in there, and they'll choke a 350 even worse; so I suggest a set of good quality headers, preferably NOT with the stoooooopid flat 3-bolt flange, and with ceramic coating. Don't just get the cheeeeeeeeeeeepest thing you can find that has "headers" printed on the box; get a good quality set, specific to 82-92 Camaro/Firebird, BUT NOT for the X-Fire motor. Get the ones for something like about a 89 350. Get a good quality cat and a good quality cat-back. Avoid "custom" exhaust at all costs, may seem like a "deal" at the time but usually turns out it isn't; often, right about the time you need to replace the starter or some such, or when something happens to it and it needs service and the only thing anybody can do is rip it all off and throw it in the trash and start over. An expensive lesson.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Start here
https://www.thirdgen.org/carbswap
http://5finger.8m.com/tpi2carb/tpi2carb.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/torqueswitch

IROCtheRoad

The short and simple:

1) You have to have a new distributor - yours is computer controlled and you'll have zero advance with a stock one

2) Sofa is 100% correct. Done this myself without cutting a single wire and I wouldn't cheap out on the headers.

3) There are multiple options for a torque lockup. There is a sticky in the Carb section.

lilman0883

i really need help finding the right exhaust manifolds or headers that are the correct ones that wont choke me engine

IROCtheRoad

Look for an L69 car. They have a larger manifold and 'y'-pipe.

Head over to the exhaust board to get some more ideas. I've personally used Dyno Don's and am extremely happy with them.

dangerboy

iTrader: (1)

I am about halfway through this exact swap and it seems to me that some of the passenger side harness is needed for the oil pressure gauge and fuel pump relay. Correct me if im wrong please.