2055 install???
#1
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Location: windsor,ont canada
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Car: 1986 305 IROC Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
2055 install???
I was looking at getting a set for my 86 305 TPI IROC and was wondering what do you have to do to get them to fit? Some people have mentioned modifying a bracket or two. What exactly needs to be modified in oreder for me to get these things in?
THANX
THANX
#2
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Re: 2055 install???
Originally posted by Striker27
I was looking at getting a set for my 86 305 TPI IROC and was wondering what do you have to do to get them to fit? Some people have mentioned modifying a bracket or two. What exactly needs to be modified in oreder for me to get these things in?
THANX
I was looking at getting a set for my 86 305 TPI IROC and was wondering what do you have to do to get them to fit? Some people have mentioned modifying a bracket or two. What exactly needs to be modified in oreder for me to get these things in?
THANX
Hardest part is removing the old manifolds and putting the header in on the passenger side. I removed my manifold and put my header in on the drivers side in an hour. The passenger side takes some work. After removing the manifold, I had to jack the motor up (Remove pass side motor mount bolt) to install the header.
Some people have a real tuff time removing the old manifolds. All my bolts broke loose pretty easily, I guess I lucked out. I also had to grind my ac bracket down a little bit, no big deal, took 2 minutes to do.
Last edited by IROCThe5.7L; 06-13-2004 at 11:23 PM.
#3
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
theres modification to the A/C bracket needed, and the power steering bracket. Also, if you bought ARP studs or anything to bolt 'em up with, you won't be able to use two or three, i forget. You see, the headers flanges are a lot thinner, and i forget what bolts up to what, but something needes that extra thickness to bolt up properly, which is why you will need to use an OEM stud. its gonna be a bitch to get both in if youve got all the emission stuff and all in the way. a lift will help you out a lot.
the biggest problem im having with mine are finding a way to tighten them. the 4 that are furthest out (2 on each side) are very easy to tighten, but the others are kinda hard, like the passenger side rear bolt.
the biggest problem im having with mine are finding a way to tighten them. the 4 that are furthest out (2 on each side) are very easy to tighten, but the others are kinda hard, like the passenger side rear bolt.
#4
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I'm not how safe my accessories are, but after 10k miles without the removed bracket they're still on there. I didn't get any extra brackets, screw that I'm poor.
There was virtually zero fabrication neccessary to fit them in. You may need to bend one of your brake lines away from it a bit though. There will be one bolt on the passenger side manifold towards the firewall that will really **** you off though, so be prepared to drill it out from the bottom like I had to.
There was virtually zero fabrication neccessary to fit them in. You may need to bend one of your brake lines away from it a bit though. There will be one bolt on the passenger side manifold towards the firewall that will really **** you off though, so be prepared to drill it out from the bottom like I had to.
#5
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm guessing there are a differences between your setup and his non-serpentine brackets.
The only "fabrication" required is cutting off one leg of one stamped steel bracket.
The only "fabrication" required is cutting off one leg of one stamped steel bracket.
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