Im very close to buying a set of 2055s. Im just asking how the install was and if you had to change/mod anything. Did you have to take a valve cover off to slide them in? I already know what plugs to get thanks to this site (Accel 276S from JEGS), and 90* boots.

I can't help you with the install, as I put them on the engine and then put the engine in the car (see vBGarage).

As I've related many times, I opened up the collector flange after a fit check of the y-pipe to match the downpipe openings. Search on "2055" and my username on this forum, the thread should show up.

Thanks for the fast reply! What im really concerned about is having to unbolt the motor mounts to jack the engine up. Also since i'm buying these used, whats a good gasket and header bolts?

EDIT: thats a good write up on your openings, too bad they dropped them! I also will use the felpros for gaskets.

Driver side was a breeze. I jacked up the passenger side of the engine to drop them in from the top. Wasn't bad at all.

So ill need all of the following to install, but if you know of a better brand/type please tell me!

1, assorted tools lol
2, 2055s and Y
3, Accel 276S plugs http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel+Spark+Pl.../276S/10002/-1
4, All 90* boots
5, Hooker header bolts http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/10984/10002/-1
6, Gaskets (HELP) i heard felpro but what part number?

Thanks guys

ps, im doing this so when i install ill just print this out and order all the nessesary parts

I decided to order some bargin wires 90 degree and add 1,000 degree 6" boot protection. If it doesn't work then it'll be upgrade time to accel 8.8's, but thought these looked good enough.
MSD-5570 street fire wire $35.95 & SUM-350198 Spark plug boots 6" silver $37.95

when i installed mine on the passenger side i just worked them in there took awhile but it is possible. I also needed to borrow some straight boots off some old plug wires for a couple that were close.

sounds good. you going to run the accel 276S plugs? I've already got some MSD helicore wires with 90* boots. Where did you get these 1000* wire protectors?

Ive installed these headers in two cars(83z and a 92z), and both times were fairly easy. Cant help with the parts except that we ordered the header install kit from Hooker for the spacers and such. We were able to install both headers from the top with no problem. We removed all the smog equipment so there was plenty of space on the passenger side. The real only complaint is that we couldn't re-bolt the oil dipstick; but I think this only pertains to the L98's (350's).

I used percy's soft aluminum gaskets and Breslin locking header bolts... Be sure to remount the supports for the alternator and AC... Think the engine had to be jacked up a bit... (my mechanic did all this in my driveway!)

It was so nice to hear with no muffler

Raf

Hey thanks guys! I take it locking header bolts are a must?

Yes i regret it i have to retighten them every so often because it starts to leak real bad sometimes the bolt will just barely be in so use loctite or something for sure or locking bolts

check Summit for part number SUM-350198 for boots - boots came in today & they have a tight weave and do look long enough to protect wires from headers

I was thinking about these wire looms: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

but now am leaning towards going w/ some of these: http://www.rmspecialties.com/1120.html

Breslin isn't making header bolts but Stage 8 makes locking header bolts - leaning towards 1" bolt vice .75" long bolt: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

do the 2055 fit a 91 firebird according to summitracing "does this fit your application it has it listed for 86 to 90 anyone know for sure please help

Define "fit".

Bolt into a stock '91 exhaust system? No. You either had dual cats, or a single 2-1/4" cat. The 2055's are made for single 3" cat.

Fit the engine and chassis? Yes.

i had no problems putting mine in.. took me about an hour, mostly i have a problem with the y-pipe but i think that's because the guy before me, didn't just put in a stock oil pan o.0 the longest part of the journey was welding in the smog tube holes.

It already has a larger cat back and I plan to put a 3" magnaflow cat on

Did you use the header gaskets that came with the 2055s, and if so, how are they working over the long run? Also, what about the header bolts that came with 2055's; do they stay snug?

this maybe a stupid ? but here i go anyway. the 2055's, is there a place for the o2 sensor? i want the 2055's because of 3" y pipe into cat.

Yes. They are emissions-legal for '86-'90 TPI single cat applications.

I found your thread about opening up the collector flange and also saw that back in 2001 you just coated the headers yourself - I'm really curious - how did the headers hold up?

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ex...ders-good.html (Hooker Headers are GOoD?)
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...nder-look.html (uses for an angle grinder? look inside : ))

I want to know how that paint held up as well. I just bought a used set of 2055s for $200!! Can't wait for them to show up. I will open the flange up before i install them, so can i just cut off .25"? I wont have a carbon ring to go off of for cutting, so i'm hoping cutting won't cause any sealing problems.

The headers did okay, but the y-pipe suffered (daily driver, including snowy weather).

You can't just open them up. You have to know where they are mating up. Running them for awhile will give you the carbon tracks. Or, use something on the flanges to leave a mark on the collector ball during a fit check.

Sounds like a plan. So ill put them on and run it for a while, maybe drive like ten miles, then take it all off again to open them up. Thanks to five7kid and JamesC i know to use the Accel 276S plugs and 90* boots, then the felpro 1404 gaskets. What i'm stuck on are the header bolts. I'll use locking header bolts to be on the safe side, but what brand? Stage 8? I would really like them to be stainless steal. Also for the brackets needing to be relocated like a/c, what length bolts will i need? Thanks for your help guys!

I run these headers with percy's deadsoft aluminum gaskets and breslin locking header bolts. So far I have still managed to lose 2 of the locking header bolts due to them coming loose, but its taken 2 years of daily driving for that to happen!

I had the y-pipe and the headers ceramic coated, they still look mostly new and show no signs of breaking down, etc.

Does breslin still make header bolts? The deadsoft http://www.jegs.com/i/Percy%27s/760/66011/10002/-1 is another option, mmm so many options its hard to decide! They are however twice the money.

BTW your car does look like a canadian goose, but in an awesome way!

kool! The 2055 GP will miss you. Techlinecoatings.com suggests the headers be "degreased using acetone, lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or similar
non petroleum based solvent that leaves no residue". Their Black Satin is rated 2,000 degrees. Another post from some other forum said to use "Muriatic acid can be found in most grocery stores in the pool section, and of course at any pool supply place. It's a pretty weak acid." I may go ahead & coat my own headers & just have the y-pipe professionally coated, unless I can figure out how to extend a pull a paint nozel through the y-pipe. A ceramic professor at NASA told me that dipping would probably be the thickest and best coating method but that's way beyond me.

Breslin isn't making header bolts but Stage 8 makes locking header bolts - leaning towards 1" bolt vice .75" long bolt: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

Ya i know i kinda feel bad about the GP, but the price was so good i couldn't pass them up. The Muriatic Acid does wonders on rust (its an industrial cleaner as too, i use it on dairy equipment) and it literally makes rust bubble off. HOWEVER it will eat through the good metal aswell, so only leave it on for a few minutes at a time and hose it off.


Those header bolts you posted are different then what i had in mind. These are the ones i was looking at http://www.jegs.com/p/Stage+8/749275/10002/-1

i couldnt wait for the gp. i have an exhaust leak at manifold to y pipe so i just ordered whole exhaust. 2055's magnaflow cat and cat back! i expect headers and cat and stage 8 locker bolts by the end of the week. these need to go in this weekend. magnaflow catback on back order. figures!

No problem on the 2055 GP. I'll order some here shortly without the GP too. Who did you think had the best pricing?

I think they all are around 450 for pricing. I'm getting the following for sure; felpro 1404 gaskets, stage 8 locking bolts (3/4), accel 276s plugs, and the correct length bolts for the ac and alt brackets from GM.

Now all i need is wire looms. Those R&M specialties look awesome, but they cost almost $55.

i went with summit

Does summit have a brand of wire looms? Or what brand did you buy off summit?

I think my exhaust is done (not installed yet though lol). Hooker 2055s, 2055 Ypipe (obviously), dynomax 3" SS cut out, 3" SS test pipe to fill the gap, then 3" SS magnaflow. Should sound good i hope!

for plugs and wires i got accel shorty header plugs and accel 8.8mm spiral core wires that came with looms. the looms are generic but they do their job. my 2055 and y pipe and magnaflow cat and stage 8 locking bolts should arrive today. magnaflow cat back ships next week. i too am looking for great sound out of this exhaust setup

i just opened the box containing my hooker 2055's... they look GOOD!!! my new cat and stage8 bolts too. i need to go to the hardware store and buy pipe caps now for the air tubes. what size do i need 3/8ths cap right?

sorry to hijack but what were the spacers for? I ended up not using them because they weren't in the instructions. Everything still fit fine. Yes you need 3/8 pipe plugs and and probobly an adapter with female 3/8 pipe on both ends. That is what I had to do.

The brackets that bolt to the back of the alternator / ac... I think you use the long bolts originally off the stock manifold, the spacer on the bolt, and bolt the bracket to end of bolt and one to AC other to Alternator...

Raf

what i normally do is put a dab of rtv on the header bolts and use percys dead soft aluminum..never any problems leaks or bolts turning loose..then again i use my car only on ocasional weekends..

Thanks I don't have a/c and my alternater I didn't even have to move.

i ended up getting 5/8ths pipe caps to block off the air tubes really need more like 9/16ths to fit perfect but tightened down they seem to work fine. we shall see once they go on tomorrow. all my air stuff was destroyed by the person who did the first engine swap then i got the car and they had plugs in the holes. i might want to get new air stuff in the future so i am just capping them off. tomorrow here i come.

Nice! PLEASE tell us how the 2055 install went, if you had to jack the motor up etc. Thanks

here you go. i did this on my '88 with a serpentine setup. i used tire ramps so that the suspension was loaded. disconnect battery. took off plug wires whole car, and plugs pass side only. took out old y pipe. then starter, then heater valve. take off pass side manifold and gasket. clean each bolt hole with a spare bolt... (i didnt do this and had a mother of a time with the last bolt at the firewall. i had to take it all the way back out and reinstall after cleaning holes.) then weasel the header in carefully. i then lined up the gasket and started a bolt nearest ac. then same thing by the firewall. then start all bolts. tighten middle and work out. reinstall plugs and wires on pass side starter and heater valve. fully done there. move to driver side. easy as pie. off manifold and gasket. i reused o2 sensor so take it out and put into header. slide header in line up gasket. tighten. hook up the y pipe by starting each of the four bolts and tighten tighten tighten. hook up cat or what ever you have there. i bought a new magnaflow cat. do the plug wires, hook up battery and hours and hours after this process began you are done. start car and watch it smoke. mine did anyway burned off coating oils or that is what i was told after i stopped freaking out. i didnt have any clearance issues didnt jack up the motor or anything. just took almost 10 hours because i broke the heater valve and had to go buy a new one. i have to wait til tomorrow to drive her and leak check but sounded great just sitting there. now i just need the rest of my exhaust to come in since it is on back order!

Awesome!! Do you have an A/C Blower box? Reason i ask is because ill do mine when i put my a/c delete box in. Also, What did you use for spacers for the a/c bracket and alt bracket? I already know about them im just wondering what you did.

yes i have ac blower box. headers went in fine. no spacers needed or mods to brackets with serp setup. didnt even remove them. my support braces were missing when i got the car never replaced them. they dont shake and belt dont slip. they do come with spacers though if you buy new. i have mine here in my spare parts box.

Now i want to put mine in ASAP! I bought mine used, but i have the dimensions of the spacers i'll need cause my brackets/braces are still there.

what they sent in the kit was just bolt roll spacers. you should beable to get them at a hardware store

Ya I'm sure even roll pins would work. What wire looms you running now?

the ones that came with my 8.8 accel wires, nothing impressive... yet

What did you do with your dipstick? Also just double checking that the bolts are 3/8"-16 3/4. Thanks

theimpaler68 nice to hear about the headers going in sooo nice!

ok, for coating headers at home Muratic Acid looks much easier than lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or acetone. Here's a great link: http://reviews.ebay.com/Paint-amp-Ru...00000002915480

I'm still mulling over how to apply Black Satin Header Coating all the way up inside the very long y-pipe. It is water based ceramic paint and is recommeded to be applied using 50 - 60 psi in a single coat .0015 "thick" - sounds more like thin to me