y pipe hardware stud or bolt
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Car: 86 Firebird LG4
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
y pipe hardware stud or bolt
Connecting y pipe to the manifold what do you use? a bolt and a nut? does it have to be grade 8? Mines aftermarket and doesn't have the hardware with it. I tried a couple of 3/8 bolts and nuts from lowes and everything went in real smooth by hand but when I started clamping the y pipe to the manifold buy tightening the bolts the threads just got eaten all to hell. I have to try to tap the threads on the manifold side. That'll be a pain in the ***. Ridiculous. I am a hot little potato right now.
Also on a side note if anyone has a little story where they screwed something up on they're car feel free to share I could use it.
Also on a side note if anyone has a little story where they screwed something up on they're car feel free to share I could use it.
Last edited by 0pyders; 07-05-2011 at 07:59 PM.
#2
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Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
I got some soft alumninum gaskets form autozone that came with 6 3/8 screws and nuts seemed to work just fine.
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
How are you using an aftermarket ypipe with your stock manifolds? You may have to cut the factory ypipe and cut the aftermarket one and get some welding done using the ends from the stock ypipe. There is always fabrication involved unless you use stock manifold to stock ypipe or aftermarket headers to aftermarket (matching) ypipe. Both have to match.
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Car: 86 Firebird LG4
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
sorry headers and y pipe are matching they are the Edelbrock TES kind. It's routed the same way as my old one. I bet it was weak hardware strength because the threads only crapped out on me when I started tightening the two pieces together. I remember having a wrench on the bolt and tightening down the nut with a socket for about 2 minutes straight and noticed the nut wasn't even moving. Then when I was getting the crap bolts out of the header side it messed up the threads on the flange. god. I'll try tap the threads on the header flange and get some higher strength hardware next time
Last edited by 0pyders; 07-06-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
oh ok, i just installed a set of these last year. I used my existing dual cat ypipe that came with my car. I had to cut it and also cut the edelbrock ypipe's ends off to use with my existing dual cat ypipe and get it welded together. As far as bolts for the headers go. On those headers it is nice because you only need the bolts not the nuts. No nuts are needed at all. you just insert the bolts into the bottom of the ypipe flange and they tighten up from underneath the car. In other words you thread the bolts in from underneath the car and up into each header. That is how it was for mine.
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
All you need are regular stainless steel bolts from a hardware store. I am not sure what length i used. I think they were 2 inch long? Let me know how it goes.
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Car: 86 Firebird LG4
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
Oh ok just thread them from under with no nut. Last time I drove the car the harmonic balancer dropped off the engine while I was on the highway (I didn't touch anything I swear )and now I keep visualizing the worst like somehow the bolt would fall off the ypipe while i was driving down the highway. Guess I'm worrying too much. Thanks for your time I'll try and get this done tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Car: 86 Firebird LG4
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Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
OK the threads are back in shape but I need a wobbly socket on the driver side one and I keep grinding metal away against the oil pan and y pipe by turning it and whenever it gets close enough to start compressing the donut gaskets the bolts get incredibly hard to turn especially using the wobbly socket and I'm afraid the threads are going to get screwed up again so I'm just going to get a shop to do it. It's just not worth it.
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Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: y pipe hardware stud or bolt
OK the threads are back in shape but I need a wobbly socket on the driver side one and I keep grinding metal away against the oil pan and y pipe by turning it and whenever it gets close enough to start compressing the donut gaskets the bolts get incredibly hard to turn especially using the wobbly socket and I'm afraid the threads are going to get screwed up again so I'm just going to get a shop to do it. It's just not worth it.
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