drill/tap fuel rail?
#1
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drill/tap fuel rail?
I've got an autometer electric fuel pressure gauge that I'm installing. I have a stainless line and fittings to mount it on the firewall.
The front end of the fuel rail on the driver's side is quite accessible; anyone ever try drilling and tapping it? Seems quite simple to drill a hole and tap for 1/8" NPT on a drill press.
Thanks!
The front end of the fuel rail on the driver's side is quite accessible; anyone ever try drilling and tapping it? Seems quite simple to drill a hole and tap for 1/8" NPT on a drill press.
Thanks!
#3
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Re: drill/tap fuel rail?
Originally posted by afgun
I've got an autometer electric fuel pressure gauge that I'm installing. I have a stainless line and fittings to mount it on the firewall.
The front end of the fuel rail on the driver's side is quite accessible; anyone ever try drilling and tapping it? Seems quite simple to drill a hole and tap for 1/8" NPT on a drill press.
Thanks!
I've got an autometer electric fuel pressure gauge that I'm installing. I have a stainless line and fittings to mount it on the firewall.
The front end of the fuel rail on the driver's side is quite accessible; anyone ever try drilling and tapping it? Seems quite simple to drill a hole and tap for 1/8" NPT on a drill press.
Thanks!
you could.... if you pull the fuel rails and flush/clean them out afterward so theres no metal shavings remaining.
drilling and tapping the hole is the easy part. the hard part is taking everything apart just to do that.
#4
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Really was wondering how the end of the fuel rail is capped. Is it something stamped and pressed in, or is it thick enough to support this type of thing?
Or, on a different track, what's the diameter of the cavity in the rail?
Or, on a different track, what's the diameter of the cavity in the rail?
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you could find a fuel rail off a car that had the cold start injector, you could put an adaptor there without doing any drilling and tapping. Just a thought!!!!!
#6
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You have to be careful with your sizing also. A lot of fuel rails basically have a pressed in aluminum plug in the ends, and if you drill them and mess with them they just fall apart. You either want to drill it oversized and use a larger fitting (what GM did with the cold start fittings), or make sure the plug won’t come out (you could run a tig bead around it, or pull the whole thing out, thread it and then thread a piece of aluminum rod and thread/epoxy it in and then drill/tap that)
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
You could always do like some do with the LT1 setups.
GMHTP had a article this month actually. hold on brb....
Ok found it.,.....
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_snow/
Tig a fitting in the front.
and do your return and feed like these L98 rails
Sunstitute the red pllug for a fitting like above in the GMHTP artice for your sending unit.
GMHTP had a article this month actually. hold on brb....
Ok found it.,.....
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_snow/
Tig a fitting in the front.
and do your return and feed like these L98 rails
Sunstitute the red pllug for a fitting like above in the GMHTP artice for your sending unit.
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#9
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Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
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Originally posted by afgun
Has anyone on the board remove the pressed in aluminum plug?
Has anyone on the board remove the pressed in aluminum plug?
Last edited by bnoon; 07-31-2004 at 10:23 AM.
#11
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Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Re: drill/tap fuel rail?
Being that this is an older post, the link to the magazine 'how-to' article is no longer valid; But I'd sure like to know how to run off the old 9th cold start injector port.... Nitro
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Re: drill/tap fuel rail?
Neagan, I belive the drivers side rear (closer to firewall) is the spot where GM had their 9th injector runnign off of. IF so, the fitting is most likely a saginaw fitting. Furthermore if it is a saginaw then Accell, Earl's, and a few other places carry saginaw to NPT or AN adapater fittings. Good luck. I have a post in this board right now showing how I did my 91 fuel rail setup.
#13
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Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Re: drill/tap fuel rail?
Cool! I have a fuel pressure guage running off the normal shrader valve, but it's an Accel product and is inaccurate by several psi (There isn't an Accel product that I've ever purchased that didn't end up having issues).
I'd like to run about three guages on a bracket right by the brake master cylinder...
Thanks for the AN fitting info!
Nitro
I'd like to run about three guages on a bracket right by the brake master cylinder...
Thanks for the AN fitting info!
Nitro
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