Questions! Iroc z resto
04-24-2006, 12:35 AM
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Questions! Iroc z resto
I was planning on buying a 69, but it is a little out of my league at the current time. I plan on saving up some cash and buying an Iroc-Z in need of some TLC. Basically a full resto. Hopefully Ill find a project with little to no rust on it when im ready.
Questions:
Well, my main question is, how do I tell if its a real Iroc? I know that it comes with stickers on the doors with the options and its tell you what it is. Does the vin number tell you this as well? Does the vin say its an Iroc-Z? Or is the only sure way to tell the stickers?
I plan on painting the car a non-original color. Like a hugger orange, som, electron blue, millenium yellow, ralleye green, or a two tone scheme. Is it going to be hard to preserve the codes and repaint it?
I also plan on trying to swap a ls1/6-speed in it and upgrading a few things to make it more comfortable/better. Do you think it would be hard for a guy who doesnt have much knowledge about cars to do this. I have few tools and the most I've done is change an oil filter. no joke. I like hands on projects and with a little help I think I could do it all. May not be perfect:P
Are there a lot of resto parts out there right now?
They are just big dreams right now. I'm currently moving and wont be able to endure a project like this right now. I have to save up money and get settled etc. Figured I would ask for the knowledge. Never hurts.
Sorry for all that rambling. Thanks for reading.
Derek
Questions:
Well, my main question is, how do I tell if its a real Iroc? I know that it comes with stickers on the doors with the options and its tell you what it is. Does the vin number tell you this as well? Does the vin say its an Iroc-Z? Or is the only sure way to tell the stickers?
I plan on painting the car a non-original color. Like a hugger orange, som, electron blue, millenium yellow, ralleye green, or a two tone scheme. Is it going to be hard to preserve the codes and repaint it?
I also plan on trying to swap a ls1/6-speed in it and upgrading a few things to make it more comfortable/better. Do you think it would be hard for a guy who doesnt have much knowledge about cars to do this. I have few tools and the most I've done is change an oil filter. no joke. I like hands on projects and with a little help I think I could do it all. May not be perfect:P
Are there a lot of resto parts out there right now?
They are just big dreams right now. I'm currently moving and wont be able to endure a project like this right now. I have to save up money and get settled etc. Figured I would ask for the knowledge. Never hurts.
Sorry for all that rambling. Thanks for reading.
Derek
04-24-2006, 08:36 AM
#2
If you're planning to do all of those modifications, what difference does it make if you start with a real IROC or not? An RS can save you a bunch of money, and will make just as good of a starting point for your project.
But... to answer your question, you can check the RPO tag in the car to verify that it's a real IROC. This can be found either on the inside of the center console, or inside the storage compartment in the rear hatch area of the car. For 85-87 cars, you'll want to find the "B4Z" RPO code to verify that it's an IROC. For 88-90 cars, the "Z28" RPO was used to indicate that it's an IROC.
If the RPO tag is missing, the VIN still may be of some help. If it came with the L98 350, it will be an IROC. The 8th digit of the VIN on these cars is an "8". If it's an 88-90 and came with the LB9 TPI 305 (VIN Digit would be an "F") then it's also an IROC. If it's got a carbed or tbi motor, or if it's an 85-87 with the TPI 305, it may or may not be an IROC and you'd basically need the RPO tag to validate it.
You can also check the car for some of the tell-tale signs, like the "wonderbar" which is a support brace to connect the front subframe rails on the car. It's a bar that goes across the front end just behind the radiator. It's bolted to the sway bar bushing mounts. If somebody faked an IROC, it's unlikely that they'd go to that level and add the wonderbar. But then again, if they did go to that level, I wouldn't worry about whether it's real or not as long as it's got all the goodies. Since you're not doing a stock resto, whether or not the car is an authentic IROC will have little or no impact on it's value once you're done.
But... to answer your question, you can check the RPO tag in the car to verify that it's a real IROC. This can be found either on the inside of the center console, or inside the storage compartment in the rear hatch area of the car. For 85-87 cars, you'll want to find the "B4Z" RPO code to verify that it's an IROC. For 88-90 cars, the "Z28" RPO was used to indicate that it's an IROC.
If the RPO tag is missing, the VIN still may be of some help. If it came with the L98 350, it will be an IROC. The 8th digit of the VIN on these cars is an "8". If it's an 88-90 and came with the LB9 TPI 305 (VIN Digit would be an "F") then it's also an IROC. If it's got a carbed or tbi motor, or if it's an 85-87 with the TPI 305, it may or may not be an IROC and you'd basically need the RPO tag to validate it.
You can also check the car for some of the tell-tale signs, like the "wonderbar" which is a support brace to connect the front subframe rails on the car. It's a bar that goes across the front end just behind the radiator. It's bolted to the sway bar bushing mounts. If somebody faked an IROC, it's unlikely that they'd go to that level and add the wonderbar. But then again, if they did go to that level, I wouldn't worry about whether it's real or not as long as it's got all the goodies. Since you're not doing a stock resto, whether or not the car is an authentic IROC will have little or no impact on it's value once you're done.
Jim1985IROC! Just the kind of feedback I was looking for. Hopefully, someday soon, I'll be able to post up my resto thread
Take care!
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