ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Hey, how would one go about removing the adhesive patches that hold on the factory insulation. I'm doing a complete POR-15 coating of my interior and patching any holes with sheet metal but I can't sandblast until I get those darn squares out. I tried xylene, didn't do much. Manual scraping, I got bored since it was taking forever, thus it didn't do much. Any other ideas? maybe hitting it with a heat gun or a good old-fashioned-blowtorch-the-h**l-out-of-it?

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Try dry ice. Lay it in for a while and the old stuff just chips out with a chisel.

so I have heard.

rhomanski

I read someone on here had good luck with a heat gun.

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the same boat prepping for damplifier on the interior. So far - I've used alot of "adhesive remover" from NAPA and some Goo-Gone Extreme from Wally World. I'm still only 1/3 of the way to getting all of the factory adhesive off - haven't messed with the square patches much yet. I'll be keeping my eyes on this thread to see if any good methods show up. I've had my damplifier in the box for the last month while I work this car's interior over on the weekend....

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Well, I figured it out. Use gasoline on the square and let it soak until you can pull the remaining insulation off, exposing the brown/tan adhesive patch. Then, once the gas evaporates (IMPORTANT!), use a wire wheel on an electric drill to remove the rest. These adhesive patches cover up the big, oval drain plugs in the floor. You have to remove the insulation stuck to it first, otherwise you'll make a mess with your wire wheel.

I'm going to retry with xylene since it has similar properties to gas, but instead leave it on longer.

Don't flame me for using gas; as far as flammability concerns, it's no more dangerous than xylene or acetone. For health risks, just don't get it on your skin, like xylene.

LIL BASTARD

iTrader: (3)

Put your car in the sun and roll up the windows, It gets soft and then peel it off.