I think this will be the official thread for my build. I finally got the motor and the car back from the body shop (still a long way from finished). Motor was originally bought from some kid that put in a new 383 rotating assembly. I bought it dirt cheap then decided to go with Golen Engines supercharger 383 build to run a D1SC Procharger. Chad did a great job with the engine and I just picked it up this past Friday. Here are pics of where I stand now. Just the engine bay has been painted and the rest of the body work will be done after the cage is put in and the entire drivetrain/suspension is replaced (all spohn and some UMI parts and T-56 conversion from Auto). There will be no A/C so most openings were blocked off with sheet metal and welded in place. I could have gone through and spend A LOT of money to fill ALL of the holes everywhere in the engine bay but the labor costs were just going to get too high and I just said forget it...

Also, the car used to be black and I am not going with the color Inferno Red Crystal Pearl (from Dodge).

The rear trunk space was cut out and moved up to allow for me to run a center mount exhaust like the 4th Gen Camaro SS.

The first day I got the car back I got the rear end out and getting ready for the new strange 12 bolt. Anyone know how much oil goes in this thing? Strange did not include any info for this other than there is no oil in it right now. Should I put in an additive as well? Strange shows it as optional but i'll need to figure out which one to use... any suggestions and how much of this goes in with the gear oil?

Here are some pics of the engine...

Specs:

Billet Splayed 4-bolt Main LT1 block
Ported LT1 heads, 3 angle valve job w/ Manley SS valves (2.00 intake and 1.56 exhaust)
Eagle 4340 Forged Crank
UltraDyne Cam - 230/238 .573/.573 @114
Eagle 4340 Forged H-beam 5.7 Full floating Rods
SRP forged blower pistons
Comp Cams Pro Mag 1.5 RR
Canton 6 qt road race oil pan
Canton Valve Covers
All MSD ignition
Electric water pump
30 lb Bosch Injectors - for first 2-3k mile break in then increase when D1SC is installed.
Aeromotive Fuel system - fuel rails setup to run in parallel (not stock series style)
and much more...

Ok, so here are some progress pics...

The rear end is in with the LCA's. I still need to get the LCA relocation brackets welded in place but that will happen when the car can be rolled onto a flat bed to the shop doing all the welding work. Also the rear end will be painted once the brackets are welded on.

A pain to install and take things apart and back together but oh well...

Got the front K-member out and when putting in the new Spohn k-member I ran into a small snag. The k-member was not going in by about 2-3 mm.. literally. The car has been in a couple accidents before i got it so i assume that may be the problem. You can see in the second pic where the k-member is hitting the frame on the passenger side. A little bit of grinding and hammering took care of the problem. After test fitting one more time I then painted over the area with a rust inhibitor and looks like nothing was ever done. K-member went in just fine after, a very nice piece.

Moving along nice with it.

sounds like a sweet built. but hey Im biased also. See sig.
383 lt1 with a novi 2000 sc.

Thanks. I have been running into quite a bit of problems installing all the new suspension. Please see suspension/chassis forum for all the problems i have been having and to help me out

Here are some more pics of things coming along.

Did you get the A-arms to go with the K-member?

Yes the a-arms fit. The bushings are not wide enough for the mounting tabs by like maybe 1/8" or so. When you torque down the bolts the tabs bend in a little and make its a tight fit. But with the factory torque spec of 61 ft. lbs its too tight and the a-arms is very hard to move up and down with your arms and the bushings move with the a-arm too.

Ok its been a while but here are some more updated pics. Just picked up the car from the shop this evening. updates include:

8 pt roll cage
Spohn manual rack
wilwood master cylinder
custom wilwood 6-piston caliper brackets
new leather seats (i wanted micro suede but found these much cheaper)

here are some pics

forgot to get close ups but if you look just like Spohn says on the website the manual rack will not work with the driver side k-member brace unless it is notched. I wanted to keep the brace and so i had it notched a bit and we're good to go. Notice that with spohns kit the u-joints and steering connections are at more of angle than other kits (atleast from what I have seen) but either way it does not bind. we'll see how it is with the engine/tranny in the car. Also, it is not that hard to turn yet either. I did not play around to see how many turns full lock to full lock is.

I am not looking to race this car at the strip but wanted to strengthen it up a bit. you'll see the side bars that run just under the arm rests making them very well hidden.

I pieced together a bunch of wilwood parts (hub, calipers, rotors, hats) to make my own front brake kit which required a custom bracket to fit the large 6-piston calipers for the 13" dia rotor

Calipers are not on as I still have the factory wheels and am waiting to order the new 18" wheels. That will probably happen once the fenders get on and see exactly how much room I have and determine what I can fit without sticking rubber out past the fender lip.

looking good. Kinda like I did my old side bars.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...e/DSC02731.JPG

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...e/DSC02732.JPG

Ooo nice. I like hows yours has another bar coming down to where the hoop hits the floor. How does your car feel with the cage you have in with the supercharged 383 LT1? I will have a similar build so. Do you feel that it could use mroe stiffness or its ok for street use?

thats a different vert I had. Not this one.

I plan to finish the bar in my current vert similar to the last car. That one pictured was a T top car I converted to a vert. So it was really stiff. It had sfc's and the hoop was tied into thru the floor.

Oh ok. One thing that I didnt do was run the hoop through the floor into the SFC's. Is that really a big deal? The shop wanted to charge me more money to do the extra work involved which isnt much but at the time I didnt want to argue with them.
Mine as currently welded to plates that are fully welded to the floor.

Its more work then just cutting a hole and dropping the hoop thru. Is it that much better for xxx amount of $. I dono. I did my own.

Id just have em plate it. Thats how I did this vert. Now I need to finish the side bars/back bars/etc...

Dropped in the engine and tranny today... that was fun

Anyways ran into MAJOR problems... first I have Spohns k-member with UMI solid motor mounts. Got one bolt in the other is off by the entire diameter of the hole (7/16"). I tried swaping the motor mounts but that still didnt do anything.

Not sure what to do here, I tried raising and lowering the motor, side to side, basically everything. Right now only one bolt is in and the other side is resting on the mount.

Also the bushing for the tranny (urethane mount for T-56) does not sit on the Spohn torque arm - there is about a 1/4" space between the trans mount and the bottom of the bushing... what is going on here? I dont see how its not dropping down, because only one motor mount bolt is in and its not even tight.

I will post pics shortly.

I might have missed it but what D1sc kit are you going with? Will an L98 bracket bolt up to the LT1 block? I would assume the LT1 setup won't work since it puts the blower down where the steering box is?

Ok, so I am just going to get the shop to level the motor and just make a custom mount for the other side... its too late to figure out what is wrong (k-member or the solid engine mount or something else?). Progress pics attached.



I am running a manual rack and pinion so I do not have the steering gear to worry about anymore. Also I might run the corvette LT1 setup. I will only have an alternator as my other accessory. If the corvette setup does not work then I will be going with custom brackets and mount where I can fit.

pics...

Ok, so while the body work is being finished I need to start looking ahead at the wiring. I had a new LT1/T56 harness made and need to wire it all up with the existing as I need...

I am looking at all new Autometer guages most likely all electric... I do not want all sorts of extra lines for the mechanical guages specially with fluids going through them. Anyone have suggestions/thoughts from what they have done or seen?

Also, what other guages should I purchase other than the factory instruments... fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, boost ga (for supercharger), what else? I need to start looking through autometers site

Update, car is at the shop getting headers made. The shop is United Exhaust and two of the guys that work there are from Kooks - they didnt move with them down south. So basically kooks headers without the name tag...

Anyways, they start as 1-3/4" and step up to 1-7/8" and go into a 3" collector. Exhaust will be dual 3 " exhaust. I wanted an x-pipe but you know our cars... no room at all for one.

I am cutting out the rear seat pans and putting the mufflers tucked up in there and just welded the floor above it. Subs and amps will take the space back there.

Here are some pics...

pics..

Are you getting a Spohn roll cage? I'd like to know how it fits and what options you got. Thanks.

I did get Spohn's 8-pt cage. And it is currently installed. I ordered the mild steel kit with swing outs for the doors. But then I decided to go with bars that bent down and ran under the arms rests on the doors. I like this look a lot better so I am not sure how the swing outs would have worked or looked. I just had new bars made for the sides. The hoop and the rear bars seem to have fit just fine. The kit comes with plates to weld to the floor pan and they are installed and the front plates are bent slightly to run up the rockers. If I did this over I would not use the plates welded to the floor pan but have the bars go through the floor and have them welded right to the subframe connectors for a much stronger connection.

overall not a bad kit but I should have jsut went with a custom setup as i ended up changing it some. If you are not looking for anything crazy and can weld it up yourself this can be worth the money. If a local shop is welding it up I would check with them for pricing first because it may end up costing more to buy a kit and having them weld it in instead of them just making your bars and welding it up.

I feel these kits are for people who dont have the tools/facility to bend pipe but can weld and want to save some money.

Thanks, great review. I'm becoming more and more fond to this style, usually seen in Drift cars now but kind of resembles yours ever so slightly.
Picture 1
Picture 2

2010 Camaro Drift Cage
Article on the 2010 Drift Camaro

I think I may do it Drift style. As I do want to keep it somewhat easy getting out of the bucket seat and harness, haha. thanks again. Saved your pictures for reference to the style

no problem. thats pretty interesting too, although a little more than what i want to do with this car. I am trying to keep from having any bars through the dash or around the windshield... maybe one day i'll build a monster 68-69 camaro with the works

That color is AWESOME! I can honestly say I hate you :-). I always wanted to a stroked LT1 and the supercharger will make it even better. Keep the pics coming. This is like porn to me!!!!

Haha thanks for the compliments. I am keeping this thread going as i make progress. headers should be done by the end of this week but due to rain i might have to leave the car until next week.

I am really happy with the color as well. I went a long time debating between various reds and Kandy Apple Red. I really wanted the kandy color but got talked out of it due to costs and what if's about getting scratched or damaged body parts... The color looks amazing in the sun and looks a lot darker at night.

Update - headers and exhaust are done. they were tacked up in place as of this morning and should be fully welded by now. Here are some pics - dual 3" exhaust with flowmaster mufflers and custom center mount tip. I had the rear seat buckets cut out so the mufflers are tucked up a lot higher. The spohn trans cross member was notched on both sides for the pipes. I am working on a way to reinforce it some more case we removed quite a bit of the flanges as you can see. Headers are gone for jet hot coating. exhaust is getting painted with high temp silver paint to just keep the look clean.

Pics..

two more

where's the gas tank going to go?

lol good question. I am having a custom aluminum tank made to fit in between those pipes and if I need I will cut up the rear trunk space some more, i already raised it but should have waited to cap it up till later... live and learn i guess.

Heya, you told me to come back here, I want to see how low the car is sitting with the drop spindles....come on, let me see the sexyness.

Sorry for the long wait here... been busy working. Just got the headers back from jet hot coating which came out amazing. you can see the step from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8"

Car is at the body shop for the final time before it comes back completely painted with wheels and at ride height.

After i have to wire up the engine, run brake lines, install fuel system, and then get the interior back in with autometer gauges (waiting on hawks here to push out their 90-92 cluster)

Here are some photos updating the project. We are running into major problems with the SS Hood and the 5" rear wing. I am extremely disappointed in how poorly these things line up. Its horrendous and is requiring hours of body work to make lines straight and make things fit some what correct. The curve of the hood does not follow the curve of the fenders and the rear wing is all sorts of misaligned. Its almost as if these things are made with minimal measurements and enormous tolerances...

Any ways. here you go. I went with a custom flat cowl and cut the back of the SS hood. you can see where the hood hits the cowl and this is where they are going to make a cut to make it sit right. Not sure how we will align the curve of the hood to the fenders yet.

pic of the rear. The side pieces for the 5" wing are some what ok. the driver side lines up and sits real tight up against the quarter but the passenger side does not fit as well.

awesome build!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Those headers look sick! Are they planning on reproducing them at all? I'm looking for a set to replace my hooker clones when the L98 comes out of my car. Already sent Ed Quay an email but so far no response (only been a full business day). But I like the looks of yours as well...I want something in the stepped variety and much better ground clearance than what I have now.

These headers were custom made based on my motor/tranny and suspension setup. One of the guys that used to work for Kooks stayed here in LI when Kooks moved down south. He now works for flow rite headers and they are the ones that made it. Absolutely love how they came out. These cant really be reproduced because they will not fit other thirdgens exactly like mine. Other thing with these is that they can only be installed and removed from under the car and the car must be high off the ground to allow enough clearance to slide them down back and out. Some what of a pain but looks great.

Thanks for the comments. Hoping to have everything lined up and painted in a couple more weeks. The shop is busy with other cars coming in and out so mine is on the back burner if they are crazy busy which is helping to keep my cost extremely low.

I think I soiled myself!!!!

She looks effin amazing!!!

beautiful looking setup. really looking forward to seeing how that center exhaust looks once everything's been painted. keep the pics coming!

Thanks guys. Yea the center mounted exhaust is coming out great. And it wasnt cheap for that either. Custom welded stainless steel - it is absolutely mint! I am going to polish it up some to get some more shine out of it if its possible.

Lookin' good man.

Update, So I have been working on the car and moving towards getting things finalized but there is a still a long way to go...

I keep running into dead ends and am hoping you guys can shed some light on some of these items...

1 - Where does everyone get the bolts/screws to install all of the engine sensors? I did not have the opportunity to get a complete LT1 from a junked car for this build so I dont have all the old stuff. Where can I get this stuff? I tried various variety packs for screws and what not and nothing has worked and I cant keep spending money and driving to ACE all day... Also need bolts for the thermostat housing - any ideas?

2 - I have a holley 58mm TB. It came with a weird gasket with a lot of little holes in it to go on the underside of the TB. What is this for? The TB did not come with anything to mount to it to use with the gasket. I installed the TB and not sure what to do for the underside of it.

3 - How do I mount the MSD coil? I checked the shop manual and it shows an ignition coil module and the coil mounted together somehow. How are you guys mounting the coil? Are you using an ignition coil module?

4 - What kind of coolant over flow tank are you guys using? I am looking for some type of aluminum can. any ideas? Anything specific i should look into for this?

5 - are you guys using the factor oil pressure switch? some cars had it located above the oil filter and others had it somewhere behind the fuel rails... Do I need this?

Thats all i am caught up on for now.. im sure more will come..

1.) The bolts I used weren't exactly for the LT1 but they share the same thread as all the other smal block chevy's for the past 50 years.

2.) This is probably the water bypass gasket that goes on the botton of the TB. This was designed to take heated water from the engine and warm up the incoming air.

3.) the factory coil is riveted on a bracket that also has the ignition module on it. You can probably fab something up but check ebay since it will be pretty cheap.

4.) I used a 4th gen bottle that also serves as the batter tray.

5.) I am using the switch by the intake. Either place will work as long as they are not open. You don't "have" to have a sensor but that is where the gauge will go.

Here are some updates... everything is done except wiring, fuel lines, and brake lines. Hoping to get wiring done in the next week or so...

Other items -

- cant get driveshaft into the T-56. I think Spohn's drive shaft loop hits the driveshaft. ANyone else run into this problem with the T-56 swap crossmember?

- who has custom made radiator shrouds? Looking for some information on how to make a shroud to hold down the radiator. Since the radiator is angled im also worried about the bottom sliding forward from bumps in the road so I need to find a way to make sure the bottom doesnt slide either. any ideaS?

Car is done with all body work. Last thing i need to do regarding paint is the strut towers but that'll be after i get the car aligned and the suspension dialed in. I dont like how close the Spohn coil over is to hitting on all sides. almost leaves little to no room for adjustment.

Here are some pics of the car back at home. now fuel lines, brake lines, and some more wiring then hopefully she fires up

few more. Love how the rear came out.

Wheels are ordered and will be a couple weeks to make. Hoping to get everything finished up by then and can get the car right out after the wheels arrive for spring time.