LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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I think this will be the official thread for my build. I finally got the motor and the car back from the body shop (still a long way from finished).
Motor was originally bought from some kid that put in a new 383 rotating assembly. I bought it dirt cheap then decided to go with Golen Engines supercharger 383 build to run a D1SC Procharger. Chad did a great job with the engine and I just picked it up this past Friday.
Here are pics of where I stand now. Just the engine bay has been painted and the rest of the body work will be done after the cage is put in and the entire drivetrain/suspension is replaced (all spohn and some UMI parts and T-56 conversion from Auto).
There will be no A/C so most openings were blocked off with sheet metal and welded in place. I could have gone through and spend A LOT of money to fill ALL of the holes everywhere in the engine bay but the labor costs were just going to get too high and I just said forget it...
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__________________ 1992 z28 - soon to have 383 LT1 w/ fully ported aluminum heads and intake w/ T-56
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Also, the car used to be black and I am not going with the color Inferno Red Crystal Pearl (from Dodge).
The rear trunk space was cut out and moved up to allow for me to run a center mount exhaust like the 4th Gen Camaro SS.
The first day I got the car back I got the rear end out and getting ready for the new strange 12 bolt. Anyone know how much oil goes in this thing? Strange did not include any info for this other than there is no oil in it right now. Should I put in an additive as well? Strange shows it as optional but i'll need to figure out which one to use... any suggestions and how much of this goes in with the gear oil?
Billet Splayed 4-bolt Main LT1 block
Ported LT1 heads, 3 angle valve job w/ Manley SS valves (2.00 intake and 1.56 exhaust)
Eagle 4340 Forged Crank
UltraDyne Cam - 230/238 .573/.573 @114
Eagle 4340 Forged H-beam 5.7 Full floating Rods
SRP forged blower pistons
Comp Cams Pro Mag 1.5 RR
Canton 6 qt road race oil pan
Canton Valve Covers
All MSD ignition
Electric water pump
30 lb Bosch Injectors - for first 2-3k mile break in then increase when D1SC is installed.
Aeromotive Fuel system - fuel rails setup to run in parallel (not stock series style)
and much more...
The rear end is in with the LCA's. I still need to get the LCA relocation brackets welded in place but that will happen when the car can be rolled onto a flat bed to the shop doing all the welding work. Also the rear end will be painted once the brackets are welded on.
A pain to install and take things apart and back together but oh well...
Got the front K-member out and when putting in the new Spohn k-member I ran into a small snag. The k-member was not going in by about 2-3 mm.. literally. The car has been in a couple accidents before i got it so i assume that may be the problem. You can see in the second pic where the k-member is hitting the frame on the passenger side. A little bit of grinding and hammering took care of the problem. After test fitting one more time I then painted over the area with a rust inhibitor and looks like nothing was ever done. K-member went in just fine after, a very nice piece.
Thanks. I have been running into quite a bit of problems installing all the new suspension. Please see suspension/chassis forum for all the problems i have been having and to help me out
Yes the a-arms fit. The bushings are not wide enough for the mounting tabs by like maybe 1/8" or so. When you torque down the bolts the tabs bend in a little and make its a tight fit. But with the factory torque spec of 61 ft. lbs its too tight and the a-arms is very hard to move up and down with your arms and the bushings move with the a-arm too.
__________________ 1992 z28 - soon to have 383 LT1 w/ fully ported aluminum heads and intake w/ T-56
