Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Well my 4th gen car is got horrible rot in some really scary areas (frame and floor board , and up on the front shock mounts). Kinda outta work at the moment so a swap as to be what I can sell from the 4th gen to pay for it going into my third gen. I been researching all swap threads I can find, split on doing a carb swap than going with fuel injection. My donar car is a rusted out 95 Ta with a 4l60e. My 85 is a 5 speed, that with sale of the good parts and the auto will net enough funds to get a 87 on up flywheel to work on the back of my Lt1. I know this is not the most able tranny, but it has held up well over the years as a driver and will continue as a driver.

I know with the computer that is on now will yield better economy, but the swap that it entails scares me enough to consider getting a carb intake since I already have a brand new holly though only run maybe a few times, and a good hei. Also still love the sound of a Holly when your stomping on the gas pedal. I will be keeping stock gauges and looking for ports to plug in on the motor for oil pressure, and coollant temp.

Is it pretty easy to work out the wiring harness far as separating out or just folding up parts your not using? I already had done the passkey mod with resister so hopefully I can pull all that out when I pull everything from my donor vehicle.

I had posted the other day about removing the oil pump drive and Pocket was very helpfull, thank you very much. Seeing how quickly the carb option would be to get together with just me needing the intake and a fuel pump and pressure regulator, maybe I could do the fuel option later when the comfort level might go up and not in need of the car. My leather seats are going in too, and saving the 4th gen rear end for a later date to get the 4 wheel disc brakes too. have plans for getting some 4th gen wheels with front spacers from Skult, I hate those rims on it now that are some cheap rusty steel.

Bought some used headers for the 305 awhile back, boy they are big for a it with 1 1/3 inch primaries and 3 inch collectors, think they are headman shorties.

Just some thoughts at the moment.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Oh when funds allow want to invest in t56 also. Hopefully those new TFS 21 degree heads and a decent AI cam too. Motor has 152,000 at moment and still going strong. Love to see some extra torque from the carb intake too. Carb is a Holly 600 dp that seems really more suite for a motor of this size than my 305 was.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Read the LS1 swap sticky wiring threads. The same applies to LT1 swaps as far as the methodology to build the harness. Expect to spend a solid weekend or longer building the EFI harness. A 3rd gen harness can be cut down to a carb harness in a few hours though. A few hours saved vs a good bit of efficiency in the long run isnt worth it to me

I wouldnt carb the LT1

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Yeah all the computer carb Harness is already gone now for few years now, so it already simplified there.

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

adamwbennett

I am currently conducting a similiar swap using a lt1 and a 700r transmission. I have never worked with fuel injected motors before other than maybe changing spark plugs or oil. I found EVERY piece of info I needed to get me to where I am now on the swap, from this site and referrals from this site. I built my own wiring harness from the car and engine harness. None of it is very hard just time consuming and repetitive. Once its done the rewards of the fuel injection by far outweigh the cons.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

yeah it is looking that way now. Getting a freebie truck to drive around while the my 95 gets stripped, and put into my 85 TA. I was looking for the quickest way to get back to running. Getting ready to jerk out the 305 and clean things up to maybe make things look a bit prettier. Running trough all the wiring and a few other swap threads too. Would love to retain air as well, but that might be on the chopping block too, considering how much you gain in the pony count, and I have t-tops so cooling not much concern yet.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

AC doesnt draw anything when it's off. Thats a good bit of work getting it to function though

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, prolly just better to leave that project for after summer. I want to have this to drive since it been 8 years I had t tops and a 5 speed at same time. Just get bare min I need to run the car as fast and cost efficiant as posible.

adamwbennett

If you leave the motor with fuel injection, as long as you have the original harness its only a few wires you have to splice to get everything working. ITS REALLY EASY!!! I would buy a EGR delete kit (20$ or less), and have the computer tuned( 60 -120$ depending) and then do exhaust. The a/c I opted to delete. Who needs a/c in a camaro when you can just roll your window down and listen to that nice LT exhaust note......

carkook

I agree with everyone above, its really not the hard. With the tune I only really had to splice like 5 wires. I aslo made my own relay and fuse box to power stuff like the injectores and the switched 12v to the computer. It started first try.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Did you have the computer reflashed to disable the vats, or bring it right over to the other car?

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Got a few issues I need help getting sorted out first though with some driveability, nothing horrible, but something I might wanna get done first, but kinda curious about. Another bit that air pump getting chucked since it is not operating anymore.
Engine light comes on then goes off-vac leak?

As title states, my check engine light comes on when I am at anything more than idle, then goes out when it is just idleing at a light in gear. Had it scanned with a tech 2 when I worked at our local gm dealership bout 2 years ago. Only a couple of codes showed up with my map sensor reading low voltage, and my air pump non functional, it is seized up. l Also when it is cold and your going down the road it kinda surges when just coasting in 3rd or 4th gear, but seems to disappear when it get warm. i did notice that there seems to be a small amount of oil around the little plate that goes over the throttle body, and I do seem to have oil coming out the back of the intake dripping on the ground. Is it a possible that this is causing a pretty good vaccume leak. had a vaccume gauge on awhile ago seemed pretty steady around 19 or so, but does seem to shake more than I remember at idle in gear. The dealership seems to be the only place you can get the throttle body top gasket and they were very expensive, thought about just rtv sealant but one of the tech guys didnt recomend it, any thoughts?

Oh passenger side bank of injectors seem to be noisier (like louder ticking)than the driver side too. Did hear with a stethascope to isolate the noise. Got 152,000 on her.

I posted over on Ls1tech but not getting many nibbles this week yet.

carkook

Mine was from a 93, so it had the removable EPROM. Its a little chip on the board. I had a guy online make me a chip and send it too me. VATS was removed and had him do a few other things.

And about your check engine light, if its a 1995 it is OBD1, which is considered a failure for On Board Daignostics to most techs. It only really senses Open, Shorts, and small circuit faults. So that wouldnt really come on for a vacuum leak. I dont think OBD1 has codes for system lean or system rich I could be wrong though. It definatly moniters it with the O2 sensor but that is just for final fuel trim during closed loop operation.

The only thing you can do is runs the codes while the light is on and see your codes and go from there, or have a scanner and look at the computers input signals from sensors are and try too find something that doesnt make sense.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it just didnt make total sense to me, I have had a couple of map sensors in this thing, and with no real access to a scanner at this time. I know your supposed to be able to check resistance with a with your volt meter, but I havent been able to replicate the procedure, and the color code of what wire you test out of the harness is pretty faded too. Kinda why I was kicking the carb idea around so much, since all I would need is just the intake. Oh the fun of a good education and lack of a good teacher.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

For the MAP fault, check your wiring circuits to the PCM

Unplug the MAP and turn the IGN on. Next do a voltage test to the gry wire. You should have 5v +/- a few tenths. If thats good, then resistance test the ppl (or blk) wire to ground. The low ref ground leg is shared among several sensors so you can alternatively do a continuity test for the ppl (or blk) wire in the IAT or TPS. Resistance should be 1.5ohms or less
If those are good, then do a continuity test for the green signal wire to the PCM terminal, again 1.5ohms or less is pass

If all of those check out, you have either a bad MAP, bad ground, or bad PCM

The TB top plate gasket is cheap cardboard commonly found on ebay for a dollar or so. OEM is rubber and doesnt sesal very well after its been removed once. A vacuum leak will play havok on your sensors. RTV will do in a pinch, just be careful to not clog up the IAC and PCV trenches

I still wouldnt carb it

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for weighing on this other issue, I was waiting for you or 57kid to kinda maybe give advice and ideas. You guys have been doing alot of good right ups for some time, and been looking over some of other's posts on their ideas too. After getting all sensor work and wiring work squared away, and some other few other odds and ends (fuel pump isnt keeping pressure to the fuel rail for very long) I will swap the Lt over to the 85 with the 5-speed to get a running power train set up with the 95 seats going in for first phase and hopefully be able to enjoy it mostly this summer. Maybe get some body work caught up too.Then next fall I would like to take it down again for a dash swapas mine isnt to presentable anymore and the 4th gen is still pretty good shape.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Bad regulator or leaky injectors

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

We concluded that the fuel pump we put in has a bad check valve since it kinda popped up the day of putting in a new pump from O'rielly's. Since I am still under the one year warrenty gonna take back for a replacement first.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

not sure if maybe just not used to reading for ohms on my meter(82140 Craftsman)with it set on 2000k it read 019, set on 2000 which(13by the instructions is equal to one ohm) it read 1354 with key off, with it on it just went open so I take it that part was right. I read off the tps sensor too and got about the same reading. It is kinda an oddball looking reading to me so I am not sure what to make of it.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Use the lowest resistance rating on the meter

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

ok so lowest value would be 2000k, then 200k, 20k, 2000, 200 respectively right? Also when checking for resistance I have the key off right? My voltage ended up being as coming up at 5.05v.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You should have a 20 ohm setting

5.05v is fine for the TPS

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

it has a 20k setting, and I am assuming the k means thousandths, 200 was lowest without a k behind it. There is a another setting that has an audible sounds with a ground sign, and it read right up around 28. Like I said this has me pretty confused.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Well went out and used the onesetting that has the audle ohm and it made a 1 ohm reading, so that is good. I guess try a new map sensor at this point, since that would be the cheapest. Still would love to know what would cause a low voltage reading, but I dont have a scanner I can get my hands on to read while driving. I guess one of those things to get when money is available, already got a new mini lap top, just need a cable and program.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Well think I got the fuel pump issue solved and my funny hard start issue solved. I took the old pump that was just under a year old back in and swapped for a new one, and it def made a difference. It starts right on the first twist of the key, and power seems to really be right back to normal for an engine with this mileage. Granted I still have funny little surges from time to time and still sends the check engine on when you have anything more than an idle going. Oh well one little thing at a time.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

My 95 has mostly been parted out now and the body hauled off. My 85 now has the carpet from the 95, with the seats from the 95 also will be bolted in as son as I get all the carpet trimmed. This past week I have installed my Lt1 into using the Gen one motor mounts. With the sale of the front nose peice i was able to buy a UMI double adjustable panhard bar, and a pro 5.0 shifter for my t-5. When I was taking apart the motor I repalced all the seals in the oil pan, the rear main and will be doing a new intake gasket when I have finished converting my $45 Edelbrock Vic Jr to the Gen 2 motor. I ground the thermostat housing off, and am deciding whether to use epoxy or have the front water holes tigged shut. Still need to smooth it out some though as the grinder was busy bouncing about. A month ago I started also fitting the 95 spoiler to the back of the 85 along with doing the mirriors too from the 4th gen car.

I will post pics on the thread soon as I figure out how to do so, but so far I have posted to my profile an album if anyone cares to have a peek. I will warn ya it has a long way to go before it is pretty. Everything that I have done so far or bought has been with funds of parts sold, or reused from my 4th gen car. I hopefully will be doing a dash swap too, as i am planning on using after market gauges. Yes I decided to forgo injection too. Curioustiy has gotten the best of me how it will run, and starting from basics again to figure out the whole tuning thing, then maybe I will move on to learning injection. So for now it is going to be the trusty hei and my DP holly 600. Maybe this will help soften some of the torque a LT1 makes going through my t-5.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/album.php?albumid=3792

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Oh an added not I did get the 95 rear end in too, will be adding new calipers and new disc. The old stuff is thin and or stripped for bleeding. Used my old Lakewood control arms, but seems I lost an insert for the bolt that goes in the bushing on the driver side, I been keeping my eyes on the garage floor hoping to find it. I tried using the 4th gen brake cables, but I am not to impressed and found that using the 92 rear cables can be made to work with the rear end wit hthe 3rd gen parking brake lever. I like how it is adjustable where as the 4th isnt.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Have to repull the tranny again. Had a hard time getting it to reinstall, I used a pribar at the back of the tranny and a funny grinding noise as it slid in. Now when i push n the clutch I get almost to the bottom of travel before I get some engagement. I am wondering if I didnt bend something. The clutch fork was backward in the bell housing, and I pulled the tranny off the bellhousing and then pulld the bellhousing to turn the fork around. The tranny went in hard and was bouncing everywhere and think I pulled a muscle cause now my sternoum hurts. It is better a few days after trying the first time I tried to put it in. Maybe I better hold on to my auto tranny just in case I busted something.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Got the tranny stabbed back in after getting the clutch fork in, only to find out the force of trying t get the clutch to engage had cracked the slave cylinder. One new slave cylinder later and the tranny works great so far.Waiting so far for someone to buy the tranny and my shorty LT`1 headers so I can fund getting my balancer and intake done.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

After much going back and forth I just put on the injection intake, so now working on doing the harness. Here is the album in the facebook so far.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...00001004137227

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

I had my intake done locally for $75, but they only did the 4 holes per end which for the most part shoould be fine. His bridgeport couldn't get the middle holes, but he did shamfer my mounting holes so I will either tig the old parts shut of just jb weld it. I did grind off the thermostate housing and down to the part where it would have gone into the heads. Waitng for warmer weather to paint and put on engine. I do have the fuely intake on but I just am not up for wirng yet, even though I will be wiring in fan and fuel pump relays. Junkyards round here want way to much for a tpi fuel sender let alone a v-6 fuel pick up so just gonna use a inline fuel pump. Waiting for funding for some of my other parts like power steering hoses for a caprice, pieces for my exhaust. I have decided I will be using the Flowmaster merge 3 into 4 as a single pipe back, looking to use a Dynomax 4 inch muffler over the axle, with a couple of 90s or 45s, got a good deal in I think Jegs or summit, but I can get them for 39 a piece here locally, and pipe for 7.05 a ft with my work discount, just need to souce the exhaust tip turn down. Have the old 95 seats and carpet in with just some minor trimming along the edges, the pro 5.0 shifter is in place, and made me a pretty slick little spark plug socket that slides over the spark plug all the way down. A reguler socket doesnt fit with the headers in place and I have a feeling I will be changing plugs often, just anothe excuse t owrench on it right?

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Kinda figuring how to load up pics.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Tore down most of the way for some new interior, and need sme help in the body department. Was thinking of going to a look of the 82-84 T/A, kinda my fav, even though it is an 85.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Loading some more.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

some pics of the rear end from my 95, got disc for the rear fianally.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Some intake pics before the mod.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

After grinding water neck off, still workng on smoothing out front and sanding it down some.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Uploading some pics of final intake. It isnt perfect, but I think it turned out alright for a first time.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Intake went on a little tight from the machine shop on the corners. I think they might have got the gaskets slightly off center when they got things set up.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Some new updates, I had a new hose made for the power steeringon the high pressure side. It only cost 50 bucks, though i had to go back for another fitting since they had to cut length off, and they only charged 6.50 for the new one and pressed it on for me. One thing I like about how they did it, they used my old fitting and tigged ends on for the hose. Usually it is an o-ring that goes bad, or the hose delvelops a pinch hole from chaffing or age from cracks. I have enough left over for another hose if I need it plus another fitting for that end.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Why did they use the old section of line? The fitting is M16x1.5 O-ring which is common. Any hydraulic company should have a large store of them

Also, the hose will always leak if there isnt an O-ring present. It doesnt matter how tight you torque it. O-rings will live the life of the line as long as they're not disturbed. Removing/installing the fitting multiple times will kill one

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

I do have o-rings on the fittings, getting some new ones though. I went to a place caled TFE here in town. They make hydraulic lines for forklifts and such.

Transamthunder

iTrader: (1)

Just a small update, a few weeks ago I got my Rad from my 95 in the car with the fans. I used the heater hoses also from the 95 all hooked up. Started toput water in to check for leaks, and what ya know I found it about 3 rows down from the top. Well alot of time in the junkyard and some time on here and my solution was a mix. I used one from a 3.4 Camaro, with the driver side bypass plugged now. Seems to work ok, havent seen any leaks. I need to clean up some of my wiring but it might just stay there as the relays are on the frame horn, but some of my switches wiring running from the cabin needs slighty worked over wit hsome various lengthing so I can rout it up and away. Right now having regulator problems, pump is over running the carb and through the vent tube and regulator is not doing its job and returning fuel the tank. I have a pole in the water fishing for ideas in the carb forum. I had bought a pro comp pc2588 with duel ports on it. the original one was an ebay unit with one line which would not work for a carb.