supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I have an 83 CFI car that I just converted to a T5 which turned out to be totally junk. So now I am going to pull the trigger on an LT1 / T56 combo (I know that dosent quite make sense). The issue is that I can find any paired LT1 / T56 combos locally and I think I might have to piece it out.

I found a local guy that said he would sell me a 96 LT1 transam motor (alum heads) with computer and harness for $1000. He said it has a 100,000 miles on it and runs great, no smoke, smooth and powerful. It has a 4l60E behind it and he said he would let that go for another $600 and it is a fresh rebuild and new converter. He also said he would warranty the motor and tranny for 30 days.

Does that sound like a fair deal? I would rather get the motor and source a T56 from somewhere else since I would need to get an auto shifter, undo all of my wiring, and change my console back over to slide the slush box back in there.

But, I also would need most likley need new hyraulics, clutch, turn the flywheel, and a tranny crossmember to do the T56 right and hope it is in good shape and dosent need a rebuild.

Should I just suck it up and pick up the 4L60E to keep things simple and play it safe?

Should I skip on the computer and just take the harness and find a 95 computer?

Thanks in advance!

cuisinartvette

Dont want to be a wet blanket, swaps can be fun but lets be real, theres nothing special about a high mile sbc even if it says Corvette on it believe me, stock youll be underwhelmed if youre expecting somethign fast. Those things averaged 14.0-13.9, not much better than a TPI.

Sounds like a rip. 100k isnt anywhere near fresh, by the time you get that all together and things working you coulda built a nice Gen 1 motor. Can always use a converted LT1 intake and save yourself a lot of hard work and coin.

Dont buy it when people say their 100k mile car is fresh as new never burns any oil etc. Believe me it does, and 100k is a lot of miles. May not be ready for the junkyard yet but would be hesitant about leaning on one.

That wiring deal is going to be a pain in the butt. Accessories, brackets etc youll need all that too for the LT1 swap. Id pass.

TexasLT1

Pretty much this. Find another engine for cheaper if you really want to do an LT1 swap.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

That is the best deal I can find around here. I can probably talk him down on the motor. I have scoured ebay, looked on message boards, looked at craigs lists between here in New Orleans all the way to Houston. Everyone wants 1000 to 1500 just for a motor, they all have more miles on them and are usually missing stuff.

I am not sure where you guys get your good deals at, but I havent found one for under 800 that is complete with a computer and harness and local.

I can hear and see the motor run here, I can get a warranty with it, and I dont have to pay 300 to 500 in shipping.

I have found a few on ebay for what I guess would be a decent price, but the shipping kills you. I don't think I am going to eek out decent power in my CFI 350 without some serious coin and I still need to get another tranny. I dont think another T5 is a good choice even behind my weak CFI 350.

If you guys have some better ideas I am all ears. I just dont think I can take my current 350, slap a converted LT1 intake, get a roller valve train, and get a better computer system for what I would have in a LT1 swap.

What about a LSx swap? Would that be more feasable and cost effective?

TexasLT1

A 30 day warranty is garbage. It will probably take you that long just to get the swap running. Not to mention, take the $1600 you're looking at spending here, and double it for a rough guess at what it will cost to complete by the time you nickle and dime it together. If you want feasible and cost effective, rebuild what you've got. Doing an engine swap won't get you either.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

$1600 is not my budget. My real budget is somewhere around $3000. Out of that I need to solve my tranny issue and I would like something better in fuel injection department. I have some garbage 883 heads on my 350 and all I know is that the engine has a small cam in it and was rebuilt about 10k ago (before me). Has great oil pressure and dosent smoke or anything. I would like to pick up a little fuel economy and jump up to some better technology in the fuel injection department.

Would a 5.3 and auto work better for a swap? Or should I really stick with my CFI and work with it?

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I just found a 96 LT1 with 73k and a t56 with everything from the harness to the hyraulics for $1,500. Is that a better deal?

84redta

iTrader: (34)

That's a great deal, I'd go for it being local. I spent $2100 for an LT1, 4l60, and a T56, and sold the 4l60 and everything i didn't need for $750, making my deal of a $2100 spent a total of $1350, so that's right in the ball park of a good deal. Normally those packages come to $2000 on average. Does it come with pedals? That won't be cheap, about $100 on average ebaying it.

92droptopws6

iTrader: (10)

I would snap this one up quick! I have been doing Lt1s for almost 12 years and have had a ton of fun along the way. They can be had at a good price just have to be patient. Do yourself a BIG favor and put new bearings and oil pump in whatever Lt1 you get.
Lt1
Ls1
Don't matter the both have it goin on!

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Can you just throw bearings at a used crank? I was afraid to do that myself, so I just did a HO oil pump, but skimped on the nylon coupler lol.

92droptopws6

iTrader: (10)

You sure can and highly advised...... BUT make sure you look at every old bearing to be sure you get the proper size cause they may have been changed..... Don't skimp here get good PERFORMANCE bearings the factory bearing suck!

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

It is located like 8 hours away which will suck, but I think a $175 in gas would probably still make it a good deal. Thanks for the suggestion on the bearings. Would you reccommend a HV oil pump or high pressure pump? I heard HV oil pumps will run the pan dry and it is better to have a high pressure pump. I had planned on pulling the pan and checking stuff out and chucking a better cam in before setting it in the camaro.

Since I already have a T5, well sort of, will the 4th gen hydraulics work with my 3rd gen pedals?

BCdawg57

iTrader: (1)

yeah the hydraulics will work fine, if i can remember right, the clutch pedal needs a little rigging to work right but its doable, works fine for me. Some people prefer the 4th gen pedals for the feel or some bs but the 3rd gen ones will get the job done.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Ok cool. How do you like your hotcam? I have heard it is not the best choice, but it is a good one. I will be using shorty headers and probably a magnaflow cat back system.

Do you still retain decent fuel economy? I know it is an oxymoron talking about fuel economy and performance but can I reasonably expect high 20's on the freeway?

84redta

iTrader: (34)

3rd gen pedals used here, and i believe they are zip tied because I haven't figured out the peg yet. The issue is there is no way to really mount the hydraulics cause thirdgen uses plastic bushing that breaks when u take it apart and 4th gen uses a clip, so most people move the 4th gen stud to the 3rd gen set.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Nevermind on that deal. The guy wanted $1500 just for the transmission setup and he just sold it. He did say he had a low mile 97 ram air with t56 coming in today and he said he would give me the whole setup soup to nuts for $2200. Is that still reasonable? Or now are we talking about the high side of what it is worth?

cuisinartvette

All you need with a sbc is a stock pump thats it. Always check bearing sizing on the LT1, they were known to be a little on the tight side of clearancing thats why you hear of so many spinning bearings. On the coupler steel is the way to go

There is nothing bad about an LT1 swap but it can get complicated. Accessories, wiring, cooling, little nickel and dime stuff etc. It can add up unless you really know what youre doing and are very resourceful, dont require help (paying someone) to help.

If you got 3k to spend keep your Gen 1, put an intake on it maybe score a deal on a better head toss a cam in it. You wont notice a difference between that and the LT1 believe me. The point of compression or reverse cooling youll never notice, nice to have an all but still. Not trying to steer you away from this just being honest.

LT1 parts arent cheap either, no blocks out there, the WP/opti setup, heads etc are bucks up stuff in comparison to Gen 1.

What about a cam, some trick flow or edelbrock heads for 1000 convert your intake, headers injectors and a tune it should run real well and no swap needed??

Projects, they always run more than you think, never been able to do one yet for what I thought even after adding a $ Cushion. 2000 turns into 3, then 3500 then it needs something else, or so it seems.

BCdawg57

iTrader: (1)

There is no difference between a 97 and 96 engine. So i would say that the price difference is rather large. Dont let the ram air mislead you, that and maybe the exhaust was the only reason for hp difference, and ram air wouldnt work on your car anyway.

As far as my hotcam, yeah i like it alot. I sometimes wish i went a little bigger, but that is to be expected. I get roughly 25 mpg on the highway.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I understand and appriciate you trying to steer me in the direction of logic. The more I think about it maybe some vortec heads and a LT1 conversion intake on top. I am an ASE master tech so I dont need to farm anything out work, wiring, or fabrication wise. Would I be able to put a 94 to 95 computer on it? I just dont know if I want to go through the learning curve of trying to learn to tune this old CFI to make it run right.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Yes you can revert back to a 94/95 computer. I'm running a '93 engine on a 94/95 computer and enjoying the extremely cheaper and easy to use tuning software. $2000 is average for LT1/T56 complete package including pedals and all. Talk him down to that and it won't be as bad, but figure at least $500 towards exhaust, I spent $1000 alone going from headers to tail pipes 3" and all new. But tell him you want to drive the car around before you buy the engine/tranny. You can use the 3.42 axle too to enjoy the swap a little more, but thats more cash.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

The lt1 is IMO better than a gen i sbc IF you can get a good deal on one. I got one complete with under 75k miles on it for $600. Already has a Mezier electric water pump, new springs and crane gold 1.6 rockers. I know it runs good too because the car it was in went 12.25@110 NA.

If you can get a good deal and can do the swap yourself there's no reason not to. Stock the heads perform on par with most budget aluminum sbc heads. No need for a different intake. Just ported heads, bigger cam and supporting mods. The aftermarket is small yes but there's everything you need to run bottom 9s. There is technically one aftermarket block but good luck finding one, otherwise the stock one has ran single digit times without worry. Its stronger than a gen i block easily.

As for the original poster, IMO anything over 8-900 is territory for a 6.0L LS truck motor. You need to stay at 700 or under for the complete engine if possible for it to be a worthwhile deal. For not much more than that 2200 you can get a pull out LS1 and matching trans.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I dont know where you guys are finding those super cheap LT1/T56 combos and LS1/T56 combos at, but I cant find them with decent miles around here. Everyone wants $2500 to $3000 for 120K plus LT1/T56 combos and LS1/T56's are going for $3500 to 4k.

Either way, economics say the LT1/T56 swap is better even if I cant find the deals you guys are finding. Time is not on my side so I cant wait around for the perfect low mile and cheap combo. By the time I wrangle up a T56 to replace my T5, get the conversion flywheel (2pc rear main motor), a set of aluminum heads, roller cam conversion, DCS CFI intake, EBL + computer, and another harness pigtail to convert my harness for the newer style computer I will have much more then the cost of a LT1 and T56. Even if I have to cough up $2000 to get it (which isnt bad considering the going rate of a complete T56).

I didnt list headers and exhaust because the same thing works on both and will happen either way. The only other real big cost is getting a T56 trans mount for like a $100 and I will probably send the computer out to get VATS and emissions stuff removed for about $150. The only main fabrication thing is notching the K-member for the AC (easy), and the only time consuming part is the wiring harness which wiring is my specialty.

I am mainly arguing with myself so please continue to comment. I appriciate the feedback.

t.p.engineerin

Ive really been thinking about doing a lt1 swap in my camaro im tired of carbs and close to 300 factory hp aint bad at all if you ask me plus ppl around here sell lt1s dirt cheap and think vortecs are made of solid gold or somethin. Id like to put a lt1 in my truck also that would be cool pop the hood on a square body and bam lt1 lol, but getting back on subject used lt1s around here usually go for 500 or so idk if u can find 1 for that out your way. Good luck on your project!

84redta

iTrader: (34)

why not use your original tranny mount and make your own T56 mount?




Cheap, less than $25 total, and no ground clearance issue what so ever like many aftermarket versions. (Disregard messy welds, never cleaned them up)

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I can find LT1's by themselves in that price range, but they always have high miles and are never complete with harness and computer. They are usually caprice motors and have 150k and up.

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

84redta, thanks for the pics, didnt even think about that. I can do that for free. I have some plate steel, angle iron, and a buddy that will either weld it up for me, or I can borrow his millermatic and do it that way.

What headers/Y are you running, I like the fit of your Y pipe. My factory stuff is hitting my SFC's and banging around.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

I'm glad you asked, I got sick of hitting my alstons, so I had to make a custom pipe :

(sorry for how big they are)






I'm sure it creates a little back pressure on the exhaust, but hooker 2055s i believe header to high flow cat, company is slipping my mind right now, to that pipe wrapping around subframe connectors, to a hooker cat back exhaust, steel pipes with black muffler and dual chrome tips. Was under $1000 I think all together front to back 3".

t.p.engineerin

yea i wouldnt want a caprice one i wasnt thinking about you wanting a t-56 that would make the price shoot up ive been looking at them with autos ive also been looking at buying a 4th gen car but third gens just look so much better

92droptopws6

iTrader: (10)

Use a standard oil pump but use the "white"spring to crank the pressure up.
There is nothing wrong with a CAPRICE/IMPALA Lt1 just be sure it is the Lt1 and NOT the L99 pull the cam out and put a real cam in there and get some aluminum heads for 200.00 bucks or so you will be 700.00 invested theen pick up a T56 swap for 1200.00 tops and get the F body MAF since its 3" instead of the tiny b body maf.............

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

From skimming through the novel I read above,
-you have an engine that was rebuilt at 10k and has some kind of cam in it
-want better fuel injection or computer system
-want a T56

Another option I haven't seen thrown out there yet is to keep your 350 and upgrade the wiring/computer using a 24X or even a 4X computer conversion using the newer 12200411 PCM. 24X is with coil packs, 4X is with the vortec dizzy. I've started picking up parts for my LT1 mostly just to get rid of the optispark. From shopping around finding used parts and doing the wiring myself I estimated a 4X will run about $400 and the 24X conversion about $600. May need TPI/LT1 intake and other parts that may add to the estimated prices.
More info here:
www.eficonnection.com
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...-opinions.html

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Well, I am going to pull the trigger on the LT1/T56 swap. Talked to the guy today and he came down a little on price. I will get everything I need minus a few small things all at once.

I have tried to crunch numbers to justfy keeping the CFI setup, but it dosent make sense to throw money at my current setup AND get a T56. I will never get the same level of perfomance out of my CFI system for the same amount of money of a LT1 swap. It might make sense to keep my CFI motor if I also didnt need a tranny too.

I am thinking big ticket stuff at this point will be the Hedman headers, Y pipe, and hooker exhaust.

I will also jerk the pan, replace the oil pump and bearings and might have the crank turned or cleaned up. The last time I threw new bearings on a used crank it ate them and destroyed the crank (yes, I verified I was putting the correct bearings in it).

Speaking of oil pump, where do I find a white spring? Wouldnt it make more sense to just get a HP oil pump?

BCdawg57

iTrader: (1)

GM white spring
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-3848911/
easy way to bump up the pressure without really increasing the volume i believe, i have one but i forget the details.

Usually with a HP pump you also get High volume, and there have been cases where you can suck the pan dry in high rpm i believe, and the volume just isnt nessesary. This is all from a not too good memory so forgive me if i'm wrong.

If you put that t56 in you prob will want to get lower gears in the rear to really enjoy the swap. I'm waiting to pull the trigger on my 4.11's

84redta

iTrader: (34)

3.23s will be slightly better than my 3.08s. They sucked, it was like driving my original LO3/T5 all over again lol.

irocwagon

TP WHERE IN SC ARE YOU.....
lt1 t56 swap.well got one but raedy for my L98 intake to lt1 intake swap and t5 for t56..most people wont be able to tell the difference,hopefully the l98 will be faster since its a 383(lt1 is no slouch, car runs like ab @%#).....hope you enjoy your swap,biggest difference to me is the sound,well my lt1 feels way stronger

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I am going to pick up my new-to-me LT1/T56 combo tomorrow. I am getting everything from the radiator to the pedals. I wont be using it all, so I will be selling what I dont use.

I have 3.23 gears and I just rebuilt the whole axle and tossed a posi in it. Might not be great out of the hole, but I am sure I will make out with some decent MPG's.

I am not completely sure I want to toss new bearings in the bottom end. I know you guys said get good steel backed bearings, but summit lists like 60 different bearings ranging from cheapy summit bearings to high dollar coated bearings. Can anyone recommend a good specific bearing for the mains and rods that wont break the bank?

Also, should I turn the crank? Or just slap new bearings in it?