When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Do you have the Information/ Part-Numbers for the Mating Connector, to your 7-Way Metri-Pack 150 Connector?
I also just wanted to mention that Delphi has a massive Connector System Catalog...
(and I do NOT mean a paper-catalog, I just mean a huge selection of Parts).
The Parts used on the Cars/ Engines that We normally use here, are only 20 to 30 Percent of what Delphi produced.
They have Connectors/ solutions for many different applications and needs.
Anyone here can ask Me about whatever they need.
I could use help again with proper connector for 1998 Camaro coolant temp sensor. This is the 3-pin version (12551708 maybe) that's so handy with LS swaps in our cars. I think the answer is in TAXI 12078088 but I can't find a copy anywhere.
I can find connectors that will plug in but the problem is the cable seals are too large for 22 AWG cable. Everything I've found is going to leak. I have a suspicion GM used 12110192 but the seal seems to be sized wrong.
Regarding LS1 Camaro intake air temp, I think 15335987 is the correct GT 150 Mini shrouded connector, correct? Appears to be the match for temp sender 12160244.
I'm actually flying through the list now with your help!
I could use help again with proper connector for 1998 Camaro coolant temp sensor. This is the 3-pin version (12551708 maybe) that's so handy with LS swaps in our cars. I think the answer is in TAXI 12078088 but I can't find a copy anywhere.
I can find connectors that will plug in but the problem is the cable seals are too large for 22 AWG cable. Everything I've found is going to leak. I have a suspicion GM used 12110192 but the seal seems to be sized wrong.
The #12078088 Data-Sheet does include the Part Numbers for the 3-Way Metri-Pack 150.2 (Pull to Seat) Connector, with different sized Cable-Seals.
It also includes the Part Numbers for the actual Cable-Seals without the Connector.
The Cable-Seal with the smallest holes, is #12110072 (TAN).
The Connector with this Cable-Seal, is indeed #12110192.
Nice job!!!
Also, there is Taxi #12078092, that is only for the Cable-Seal Information without the Connector Part Numbers.
Here is an Image of the Part Number Chart from the Data-Sheet:
I personally do not use the Pull to Seat Metri-Pack 150.2 Connectors anymore.
The Slimline GT 150 Connectors replace all the Pull to Seat Connectors, if you ever want to change.
Regarding LS1 Camaro intake air temp, I think 15335987 is the correct GT 150 Mini shrouded connector, correct? Appears to be the match for temp sender 12160244.
I'm actually flying through the list now with your help!
Also correct!!!
That Connector is available with No Shroud, a Half Shroud, or a Full Shroud.
-None: #15449027
-Half: #13520104
-Full: #15335987
Also, GT 150 Connectors that use a Shroud, or Half Shroud...
Can use a CPA Lock.
Part Number #15317832.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 12-16-2021 at 02:10 PM.
I personally do not use the Pull to Seat Metri-Pack 150.2 Connectors anymore.
The Slimline GT 150 Connectors replace all the Pull to Seat Connectors, if you ever want to change.
Yeah, I was wondering about that. The GT 150 slimline for my Holley fuel pressure sensor (15477863 replaced by 13602480) appears to have a different pin dimension though. What part number GT 150 slimline would plug into the '98 Camaro coolant temp sensor? My connector won't reach the coolant temp sensor or I'd just try...
Edit: Nevermind, I found a spare in my Holley harness supplies and it plugged right into the coolant sensor. Problem solved!
The Slimline GT-150 Connector Part Numbers for the 3-Terminal Sensors (TPS, Coolant, MAP, Oil-Pressure, ETC) are:
Connector Assembly: #13602480 (the same Part Number that you had Posted):
The TPA is #15452678:
The PLR (if you ever need to replace it) is #13602479:
The Terminals for this Connector are the same as the Connector that you are using for the Air Temp.
In your opinion, is it even worth the trouble to build a sub-harness for LS1 knock sensors, or should a person just buy the pre-made harness from GM, 12601822 ? I haven't found the bits and bobbles to build a sub-harness. Not sure it even matters if it requires special tools because most people wouldn't buy the tools for one job anyway.
2-wire non-resonant knock sensor (LS3 style) appears to be a GT 150 4.5 mm centerline (15374222). That drawing calls for cable seal 12191226, but I notice that's the same cable seal used in a Micro-Pack 064 connector for Multec fuel injector. Is that really the correct cable seal for the knock sensor?
The terminal called out for the knock sensor is 12191818 which is indeed a GT 150 terminal, but TAXI 12191815 indicates the typical cable seal would be 15366021 (not 12191226). I'm confused which seal is most appropriate in this case.
Anybody know if the Gen III engine AC compressors have the flyback diode integral to the compressor, or does it need to be added to harness?
I have remnants of LS1 Camaro harness (my spare parts bin) and I don't see a flyback diode integrated into the harness. I also have a brand new LS3 crate engine harness and do not measure any type of diode in the AC clutch circuit when I probe the connector with a DVM.
Edit: Just saw in a 2000 Camaro wiring diagram that the diode is in the engine harness near fuel injector 2 breakout. I'll tell ya, I've stripped down two different Camaro harnesses in the past and don't remember anything like that!
In your opinion, is it even worth the trouble to build a sub-harness for LS1 knock sensors, or should a person just buy the pre-made harness from GM, 12601822 ? I haven't found the bits and bobbles to build a sub-harness. Not sure it even matters if it requires special tools because most people wouldn't buy the tools for one job anyway.
I am assuming that you are referring to the Gen-III Knock-Sensor Sub-Harness that goes into the Valley of the Engine.
That would indeed be GM Part Number: #12601822:
I believe those Retail for something between $40 to $60.
If that is correct, making one would be far less expensive than purchasing one.
The Valley Cover Grommets would have to be purchased from a GM Parts Department.
You would need to obtain:
-2 of Weather-Pack Knock-Sensor Connector-Bodies, 2 Cable-Seals, and 2 Terminals.
-1 of Metri-Pack 150 2-Way Male Connector-Body, TPA, 2 Cable-Seals, and 2 Terminals.
Like I said, the ONLY missing Parts (compared to a pre-built Sub-Harness) would be the Grommets.
The only Tools used, would be the Terminal-Crimpers.
2-wire non-resonant knock sensor (LS3 style) appears to be a GT 150 4.5 mm centerline (15374222). That drawing calls for cable seal 12191226, but I notice that's the same cable seal used in a Micro-Pack 064 connector for Multec fuel injector. Is that really the correct cable seal for the knock sensor?
The terminal called out for the knock sensor is 12191818 which is indeed a GT 150 terminal, but TAXI 12191815 indicates the typical cable seal would be 15366021 (not 12191226). I'm confused which seal is most appropriate in this case.
Yes the Gen-IV Knock-Sensor Connector-Body is Part Number: #15374222:
The current Part Numbers for the GT-150 Cable-Seals are:
-15366060 (Blue) 18AWG to 20AWG.
-15366021 (White) 22AWG to 20AWG.
The Delphi MULTEC-II Fuel Injector Connector does use Micro-Pack 064 Terminals...
However, it uses GT-150 Cable-Seals (NOT Micro-Pack 064 Cable-Seals).
So the Part Numbers for Cable-Seals that you found, are indeed correct.
MULTEC-II Connector-Body on the Left... and GT-150 Knock Sensor Connector-Body on the Right:
In the 2 Images above, the 2 different Connectors can be seen with the Bores for the Cable-Seals being the same inside diameter.
The 3rd Connector-Body in the Images, is a Slimline GT-150 3-Way Connector.
I included it because the Bore size is slightly smaller.
Some of the GT-150 Cable-Seals are also slightly smaller.
The following Cable-Seals have a slightly smaller outside diameter:
-15344324 (RED) 18AWG to 20AWG.
-15366022 (Green) 20AWG to 22AWG.
I recommend the above Cable-Seals for all of the Slimline GT-150 Connectors.
Anybody know if the Gen III engine AC compressors have the flyback diode integral to the compressor, or does it need to be added to harness?
I have remnants of LS1 Camaro harness (my spare parts bin) and I don't see a flyback diode integrated into the harness. I also have a brand new LS3 crate engine harness and do not measure any type of diode in the AC clutch circuit when I probe the connector with a DVM.
Edit: Just saw in a 2000 Camaro wiring diagram that the diode is in the engine harness near fuel injector 2 breakout. I'll tell ya, I've stripped down two different Camaro harnesses in the past and don't remember anything like that!
I always just install a Diode at the Connector.
I crimp the Legs into the Terminals with the Wires.
The GM knock sensor harness assembly (12601822) has a two pin connector that plugs into main engine harness. Anybody happen to know which pin (A and B) is the front knock sensor vs. rear knock sensor? That intermediate connector is not shown in the 2000 Camaro wiring schematics that I have.
The GM knock sensor harness assembly (12601822) has a two pin connector that plugs into main engine harness. Anybody happen to know which pin (A and B) is the front knock sensor vs. rear knock sensor? That intermediate connector is not shown in the 2000 Camaro wiring schematics that I have.
Knock Sensor 1 is the front most Knock Sensor.
It uses a Dark Blue Wire in most Schematics.
Terminal position "A" of the Metri-Pack Connector in the Image below, is for Knock Sensor 1:
Concerning MAF sensors, are any of the wires larger than 22 AWG?
All the wires appear to be the same size in the LS3 harness I have, but I kind of expected the 12V supply and ground to be 18 AWG or something like that.
It depends on Which MAF Sensor is being used (Model and 3-Terminal or 5-Terminal).
Are you using a 5-Terminal LS3 Part?
Some MAF Sensors will use 22AWG (0.35mm2) Wires for all 3, or all 5 Terminals.
However (just as you were thinking), Some will use 18AWG (0.80mm2) Wires for Ignition-Voltage and Ground.
To be safe, I build all 3-Terminal and 5-Terminal Harnesses and Pigtails with 18AWG (0.80mm2) Wires for Ignition-Voltage and Ground...
The remaining Wire, or Wires can always use the 22AWG (0.35mm2) size.
@QwkTrip You are doing an excellent job!
You are most welcome as always!
You are finding most of everything on your own; and learning everything as you go along.
It is most impressive!
You are going to become another one of the Delphi Connection System "experts", just like some of the other guys have become
(like Pocket and @scooter)...
Keep it up!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 12-21-2021 at 09:31 PM.
Thanks, bud. You're taking away a lot of the frustration of hunting down things that aren't obvious.
This is along the lines what I am thinking (see below).
Initially I had tooling in the bottom left, but cleared it out. Ideas are welcome.
I'm not worrying about wire colors since Holley is different than GM and so on so forth.
I also have a spreadsheet that keeps me organized and has the underlying tech data that helps me choose parts. It will also allow me to upload a selective BOM to Mouser. My plan is to hand that spreadsheet to Scooter as thanks for his help.
Does anybody know part number of connector for oil level switch in oil pan? I can see the pinouts in the wiring schematics, but haven't been able to track down a part number on the forums.
Does anybody know part number of connector for oil level switch in oil pan? I can see the pinouts in the wiring schematics, but haven't been able to track down a part number on the forums.
The early Engine Oil Level Float uses a 2-Terminal Electrical Connector...
and the late Engine Oil Level Float uses a 3-Terminal Electrical Connector.
The early Engine Oil Level Float uses a 2-Terminal Electrical Connector...
and the late Engine Oil Level Float uses a 3-Terminal Electrical Connector.
Which version are you using?
I didn't know there were two choices. Whatever is most likely with 4th gen F-body and C6 Corvette because those are the two oil pans most likely to be used with LS swaps in our cars.
Some day I would like to add that feature to my car but my existing oil pan doesn't have that option.
I didn't know there were two choices. Whatever is most likely with 4th gen F-body and C6 Corvette because those are the two oil pans most likely to be used with LS swaps in our cars.
Some day I would like to add that feature to my car but my existing oil pan doesn't have that option.
That would be the early Engine Oil Level Float uses a 2-Terminal Electrical Connector.
It is the 2-Way Black Metri-Pack 150 Connector, that I Posted earlier in this Thread:
It is Part Number: #12052641.
Be careful... There are multiple Black 2-Way Metri-Pack 150 Connectors that look almost the same.
The only difference being the Key-Way of the Connector-Body.
So confirm the Part Number before making a purchase.
Some of the C6 Corvettes used the 3-Terminal version...
So the LS2/ LS3 Corvette Oil-Pan would work.
Note: the Oil-Pan was the same for the Older LS2 Corvette and the Newer LS3 Corvette.
However the Older Oil-Pan used an Oil Filter Fitting for the PF46 Filter.
The Newer version used an Oil Filter Fitting for the (Larger and Better) PF48 Filter.
If you purchase this Oil-Pan new, it only comes with the Oil Filter Fitting for the PF48 Filter.
If you obtain a used Oil-Pan, you may need to change the Fitting.
Many years ago, I stocked a ton of the Oil Filter Fittings for the PF48 Filters...
I would convert/ upgrade all the Vehicles that came into My Shop.
Warning: if you ever attempt to remove one of these Fittings...
they can be very difficult to remove (they use a very strong Thread Locking Compound).
Pre-heat the entire Oil Pan in an Oven before attempting to remove the Fitting.
Many people used to bring me the Oil Pans that the Broke/ Cracked, trying to change the Fittings.
I hate TIG repairing Cast Aluminum... but I became pretty good at it!
I'm pretty much done except for auto transmission and drive by wire. I've never had either and know nothing about them and don't intent to strain my brain with that stuff. Going to rely on others to help with that and I can update my slide pack later. I'm kind of burned out with this as I've been working on it for many weeks.
Also want to work up a little section on harness splices. I found the AMPLIVAR splices and those look easy to use. I'm not familiar with selection of Delphi splices and it's not in the old connector catalogs. If anybody has suggestions let me know.
I'm pretty much done except for auto transmission and drive by wire. I've never had either and know nothing about them and don't intent to strain my brain with that stuff. Going to rely on others to help with that and I can update my slide pack later. I'm kind of burned out with this as I've been working on it for many weeks.
Also want to work up a little section on harness splices. I found the AMPLIVAR splices and those look easy to use. I'm not familiar with selection of Delphi splices and it's not in the old connector catalogs. If anybody has suggestions let me know.
The AMPLIVAR splices are perfectly fine...
The Delphi equivalents are the same thing.
I have all the Transmission and Electronic Throttle Electrical Connector information, if anyone wants it here.
I have all the Transmission and Electronic Throttle Electrical Connector information, if anyone wants it here.
That would be awesome. Instead of putting it here, it might be best if you just made a new thread that could be hot linked in the new / upcoming LS swap sticky. Might be good to separate the two different topic matters (two threads).
Power Distribution is ready for the sticky. I'm not going to have anything to add personally until sometime later in Q1 2022 at the earliest. The info there is solid as-is, thanks in large part to vorteciroc.
Power Distribution is ready for the sticky. I'm not going to have anything to add personally until sometime later in Q1 2022 at the earliest. The info there is solid as-is, thanks in large part to vorteciroc.
Okay, got another question about M/P 150.2 and GT 150 Mini connectors. I was trying to find a connector for the LS coils and noticed the kits online use a connector with a special key shape on the side of the connector body. It's not the half-round at the bottom of the body like shown in the Delphi catalog.
I think I stumbled on the right connector by accident (15354716) by searching through every 4-way connector at the Mouser website. But I can't find a line drawing anywhere to verify.
Also, in the event I can't find the correct connector assembly, is there a list of PLR's for GT 150 Mini connectors so I could just construct the correct assembly from a bare connector body? I'm guessing the connector body is same and the PLR's are what make the unique keyways.
The Electrical Connectors for the Ignition Coils, are the Slimline GT-150 4-Way (KEY) Connector.
The PLR for this Connector is the "KEY" shape.
I almost never find the PLRs in stock anywhere... but take the Part Number just in case you get lucky.
4-Way "KEY" PLR: #15336003.
The above Connector is: #15439568 (Mouser has plenty in stock).
The same type of Connector, but with the "Mushroom" PLR is: #15410728.
The "Mushroom" PLR is: #15326558 (good luck finding some).
The TPA for both versions of these Connectors is: #15305028.
That would be awesome. Instead of putting it here, it might be best if you just made a new thread that could be hot linked in the new / upcoming LS swap sticky. Might be good to separate the two different topic matters (two threads).
I am going DBW so I this would probably be of benefit to me.
There are SEVERAL Drive By Wire Systems...
that were produced from the very Late-1990s to the End of the Gen-IV SBC production, that we can use.
Most only differ slightly from one-another...
But there are different Modules, Throttle-Bodies, Throttle-Pedals, and Connectors for the different versions of the TAC System.
Do you guys have a favorite version of the TAC System?
I do not think that I want to detail all the different versions.
Let me know please.
Note: DBW is prohibited in My Shop.
It is not considered safe enough, in many of the faster Racing Classes.
It is also too easily manipulated, for my liking.
Sorry.
I forgot to say, if you guys have 1 particular favorite TAC System...
or even 2 or 3 favorite TAC Systems...
I would be fine with doing the detail-work needed for all the Parts and Wiring for each version of the TAC Systems.
I do not want to do 8 or 10 different vesrions, sorry.
QwkTrip would like a separate Thread for this...
So please pick the System or few Systems that everyone wants.
I'll start a Thread then, to go over the details.
12-14-2021, 05:56 PM
