91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

Well I finally took my car out to the track......and found out it is dead crawlin

My best was a 15.46 @ 93 with NO HOLESHOT whats so ever. The car kept bogging out of the gate and either dying out or i would get out of it. It turns out I had the little spring/nipple thingy in the dist. cap in backwards so ti was arching and running like crapola and my accelerator pump for my primaries wasn't squirting right and the power valves werent allowing off idle power.....stupid vacuum.

So I am going to pull the dist. and carb apart, block off the power vavles and jet the carb richer, and get a new cap and rotor........all in all I had a BLAST. It was my first time racing at the track and I really enjoyed it despite all the problems......plus I was running E85 so haha to race gas. So hopefully in a month I will be much faster with all the bugs worked out.

BTW anyone have a 3 series carrier?? I would prefer non-posi cause thats all I have the money for and I will just weld the spiders for now, but let me know

formula forever

what track did you go to? i want to take my car to the track but have not gone to one yet. well it a good thing you already know what the problem is. and as long as you had a good time thats all that counts.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I was at Great Lakes Dragaway, or some people call it Union Grove, or The Grove.

I lucked out, my buddy that was with me has been messing with Holleys and cars since before I was born, and he knew right away the problems I was having. I just wish I had the parts with me at the time, but I think I have a cap and rotor at home, I just need to find it

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

fix the carb the right way, not blocking off the power valves either. that will foul out plugs unless this is going to be a track only car now?

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

looking like it is only going to be that, i barely drive it as is, so it wont bother me having to clear the carb out when I am driving on the street, plus I will just lean the idle circuit out when I street drive it.....so no biggy to me

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i don't see how the power valves are hurting you at the track at all? replace them with the proper ones and it should be fine. the only reason you "might" want them gone would be for consistency for bracket racing, but even then most people keep them still.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

my buddy was telling me since i have the cam i do (i showed him the spec sheet) that the engine doesnt produce even vacuum, and since power valves rely on vacuum and really only effect idle and just odd-idle fuel flow it wont harm me if i taken them out.

plus i am more concerned with launching the car and getting off the line then just driving it. plus the car despirately needs a gear in the rear, it really picks up top end but it doesnt make up enough for the bottom end

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i'm sure your cam isn't too crazy, if it's 260-270 @ 0.050 with .650+ lift then yes, you can ditch them, but i doubt your motor is crazy like that. my solid cam works really well with the power valves, they make them all the way down to 2.5" of vacuum. i have 6.5 in mine and make 8" vacuum at idle and 15" at 1500-2300 rpm. you need to check out your cruise vacuum and go from there. Typically you ditch the power valve and need 6-10 jets larger, but it will buck and pop and foul out plugs in general driving. hop onto aim if you need to discuss further: eighty4fourz28

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

i will hit you up

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Who runs E85 on a motor with 11.5:1 compression running lean?

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

it was more an ignition problem and timing issue than anything else. i bought the parts for the carb a little while ago and going to tear into it tonight

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you know with E85 you need to run 30% more jet at least compared to a typical engine at WOT. i'd guess your jets around 80/90 for the combo.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

not yet, they are jetted 67/73 for the combo......but it will be rejetted this evening

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Whether it was an ignition problem or not, you are absolutely crazy for running at the track with E85 in an 11.5 motor while you're worried its running lean

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

what do the plugs look like after a WOT pass?

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Probably bright white with a lot of little pieces missing

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

Actually they looked nice and a medium shade of tan/brown. All of them looked like that, however the set I had in the car for the first few runs had some life taken out of them, the gaps on a few of them were WIDE open. Looks like if I was running some nitrous thru the motor.......which I wasn't....yet. But the car ran with the other plugs

one wheel peel

my only question is why? e-85. you concerned about fuel mileage?or the cost of gas?which i dont understand either cause if you got the money for the motor and parts hwy skimp running e-85? maybe there something i dont know about e-85?

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm interesting, actually I feel kind of like an ***. E85 has a higher octane, like 100-105 from what I've read online. Obviously its not recommended for gasoline cars, but I'd imagine it shouldn't do much damage to a carb setup.

Like Steve said though, you should jet it richer because it still probably is running too lean...which is still bad, lol

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

The money has always been tight, it took me 6 months to get all the parts for the engine together, and the trans took about 2 months and then my parents gave me a "we love our son" loan to fix it after it broken, so in a sense money is an issue.

plus there are VERY few places to get race gas around me, and when they do have it people i know have had ruined engines cause the owners put either kerosene or diesel in the tanks and never clean them properly when it comes time to put race gas back in......and they places that are cool are a long drive and that is even more money i burn to get their.

and E85 is roughly a 105 octance gas because it has so much more alcohol. It burns at a cooler temp despite the fact it takes more to get the correct A/F ratio. I did some research for it and ALOT of import owner who autocross their cars have tuned the engines for them. There are a few guys running around with E100 (100% ethonal) which is roughly equvalent to 114 octane. And the price is unbeatable, for 2.49 a gallon as compared to 3.59 for 100 race gas, 8.00 for VP 108, or 5.19 for 110 from a Philips 66.

Plus it burns a ton cleaner and how many people do you know who run E85 in something that "should" run 12's when I am done??
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yeah I know it is running lean, off the line it bogs out because it doesnt have the fuel to get going, but once the engine is spinning i have no problems. i have the carb apart and notice it has all kinds of cool parts in it, bigger pump cams, the non-stick gaskets, has big jets just not big enough, the secondary metering block has some goofy stuff done to it

but i am going to knock the jets up 2 more then if i was rejetting it for race gas

MattW

iTrader: (1)

i have the open diff outta my 3.73 7.5" rear end....lemme know if you are interested.....

mustbeatmopar

I ran a 14.25 with a stock motor, and just some suspension mods....


your car looks mean, let us know how it does once its running right.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

i maybe contacting you with an answer tomorroww

3.8TransAM

Most testing gives a RON rating on E85 at 105+.

Most ends up being 108-111 in practical experience.

Get yourself a wideband, dropping a few hundred $$$$ will save u time on tuning and gain u mileage, power and engine life.(in my opinion it will cut true detailed tuning time in half if not more)

later
Jeremy

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I would LOVE to do that, but I am a broke college student.....hell I just went to a swap meet today to sell some junk (basically) to pay bills (granted I made $200 but hey)

rokn91rs

i have a complete 3.73 posi rear. if you are interested let me know.

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

i maybe interested. i found out i maybe able to use the rear end posi and gear from the 4th gen rear end in my car, altho a different gear ratio will give me something to mess around with, i will let you know as soo and i swap them

91CamaroRS305

iTrader: (2)

I got the 4th gen posi in with the gear, can is TOTALLY different, now I need to worry about getting it to hook it is now all over the place and blowing the tires away when I get on it. I can even break em' loose shifting into second when I am on it, or spin them from a 30 mph roll.

Today the drag shocks go in the rear and the front sway bar is coming off, so hopefully I should get it to hook harder with the weight transfer going right.

BTW I put some 93 octane and the car runs almost perfect, now I need to tune the carb and set the timing and it is off to the track maybe this weekend or next to test it out....can't wait, SHOULD be a whole lot faster!!

taengineering

Sounds like you and I have similiar problems. Haven't read much of the posts, but go buy the $100 accelerator pump tuning kit, the 40 dollar jet kit and take a vacuum gage and figure out your correct power valve. 4" or 6" of Hg below normal readings. As for the distributor, does it give you true timing readings with a light, or is it all over the place? If it is, get a vacuum lock out and go from there.

back to the carb, with the tuning kit, change out the accelerator pump cams for larger ones, and change the actual squirters to larger bore ones( all in the kit) once you get a good amount of flow, you cans stop going up in size,***don't forget about the secondary squirters either. Also check to see if the carb linkage is off, make sure the primary barrels are about 1/2 way open before the secondaries start to kick in. see whay this gets you...