Need to lower times
#1
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Need to lower times
I need some suggestions from some seasoned racers. I would like to find a way to lower my times.
Timeslip
60' ---1.783
1/8 ---7.728
1/4 ---12.004
1/4 MPH 116
The car is a 406, miniram,700R4, 3.73, Nitto DR, Dual 3" exh.
3500Lbs., with A/C.
I could use some advice, I don't know much on how to read timeslips or comparisons. Thanks
Timeslip
60' ---1.783
1/8 ---7.728
1/4 ---12.004
1/4 MPH 116
The car is a 406, miniram,700R4, 3.73, Nitto DR, Dual 3" exh.
3500Lbs., with A/C.
I could use some advice, I don't know much on how to read timeslips or comparisons. Thanks
#2
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Nothing wrong with that timeslip.
If you want to go faster, get some weight out of that heavy car.
If you want to go faster, get some weight out of that heavy car.
#3
I agree...shed some pounds. Remove unused seats, use racing buckets for the front, fiberglass hood, remove ac, windshield washer resivior and pump, aluminum water pump, aluminum radiator, tubular front bumper, removed airbag, remove front swaybar, lightweight flywheel, driveshaft, and wheels. removed floormats, a diet for yourself. Each one of these things by itself wouldn't make a huge differance, but add it all up and you shave several hundred lbs.
#4
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 92superram
I agree...shed some pounds. Remove unused seats, use racing buckets for the front, fiberglass hood, remove ac, windshield washer resivior and pump, aluminum water pump, aluminum radiator, tubular front bumper, removed airbag, remove front swaybar, lightweight flywheel, driveshaft, and wheels. removed floormats, a diet for yourself. Each one of these things by itself wouldn't make a huge differance, but add it all up and you shave several hundred lbs.
I agree...shed some pounds. Remove unused seats, use racing buckets for the front, fiberglass hood, remove ac, windshield washer resivior and pump, aluminum water pump, aluminum radiator, tubular front bumper, removed airbag, remove front swaybar, lightweight flywheel, driveshaft, and wheels. removed floormats, a diet for yourself. Each one of these things by itself wouldn't make a huge differance, but add it all up and you shave several hundred lbs.
Installed Aluminum Radiator, Removed EGR, Removed Air Pump, Removed Catalytic Converter, Removed All other Smog Devices, Removed ECU, Removed Wiring Harness for ECU, Removed Heater Core and Lines (for now), Removed A/C Compressor, Removed A/C Condensor, Removed A/C dryer and all related A/C items, Removed Blower motor and Blower motor housing from firewall, Removed Jack and Spare Tire from rear of car, Removed Cruise Control, Removed Washer Resevoir, Removed washer pump, swapped to a th350 (does this save any weight?), removed back seats.
The Car has a 350HO crate motor and turbo 350 tranny. the only options i havent deleted are power locks and power windows. thanks
#5
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Well, there are some tricks to squeeze out more ponies, but if you still have AC I'm guessing you're going for streetability.
Some things we did on a short block.
1) Low tension top ring
2) crimped oil ring
3) no secondary ring
Total torque to turn the short block was less than 40 inch-lbs Engine burns a pretty good amount of oil every pass. We also set up the rear a little tight, because the pinion tries to push the ring out the back of the diff, so it gets where it's supposed to be if it's a little tight. Anything not involved with passing tech or going forward went bye bye. It was a well known fact that you didn't lean on the front bumper, or it would fall off.
For a street car, balance the CCs and springs on the head. Set the pinion at about 5* down so you don't get as much U joint drag. Ditch all of the insulation under the carpet, scrape as much undercoating, and other useless crap off the bottom of the car. Push the calipers in before you run so they don't drag, of course this means you can't touch the brakes before you run. Makes staging difficult. Have to do the E-brake stop. That's a NASCAR trick, so I don't know how well it translates into drag racing. Make sure the AFR is tuned well and also tune the timing. Ice the hell out the miniram, and don't run the car long at all before you stage. I hear that tubular front bumper is good for 80 lbs or better. Could probably do the same thing with the rear.
Some things we did on a short block.
1) Low tension top ring
2) crimped oil ring
3) no secondary ring
Total torque to turn the short block was less than 40 inch-lbs Engine burns a pretty good amount of oil every pass. We also set up the rear a little tight, because the pinion tries to push the ring out the back of the diff, so it gets where it's supposed to be if it's a little tight. Anything not involved with passing tech or going forward went bye bye. It was a well known fact that you didn't lean on the front bumper, or it would fall off.
For a street car, balance the CCs and springs on the head. Set the pinion at about 5* down so you don't get as much U joint drag. Ditch all of the insulation under the carpet, scrape as much undercoating, and other useless crap off the bottom of the car. Push the calipers in before you run so they don't drag, of course this means you can't touch the brakes before you run. Makes staging difficult. Have to do the E-brake stop. That's a NASCAR trick, so I don't know how well it translates into drag racing. Make sure the AFR is tuned well and also tune the timing. Ice the hell out the miniram, and don't run the car long at all before you stage. I hear that tubular front bumper is good for 80 lbs or better. Could probably do the same thing with the rear.
#7
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I should drop some weight but don't want to lose the street enjoyment. I've thought about the radiator and fiberglass hood. Me going on a diet wouldn't be all bad either . Thanks again for the help
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