305 TPI + cheap mods = surprised
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
305 TPI + cheap mods = surprised
Well i took the car to the track today... on a nice sunny afternoon roughly around 45 degree's..worst part was that there was a head wind of approx 15-20 mph down the track.... first we'll start with what the car is.. and the mods
1991 Firebird Formula... T5....305 TPI...Dual Cat....3.42 rear
Mods: Custom CAI, Knocked Down EGR walls, Advanced Base Timing to 10 Degrees, Deleted Muffler, Bumped Fuel Pressure With a Quarter, TB bypass and thats it....Oh and on my Falken Ziex 512's... (normal street tires)
onto the best 3 times of the day
60 ft - 2.1188
330ft - 5.9899
1/8 - 9.2281 @ 76.77
1/4 - 14.3151 @ 96.54
60 ft - 2.1250
330ft - 6.0019
1/8 - 9.2422 @ 76.91
1/4 - 14.3310 @ 96.33
60 ft - 2.0790
330ft -5.9941
1/8 - 9.2532 @ 76.53
1/4 - 14.3691 @ 96.17
overall i was very impressed.. i was expecting 14.5's at BEST with it being a poorly prepped track... next is hopefully a set of headers and some stickier tires and 13's
1991 Firebird Formula... T5....305 TPI...Dual Cat....3.42 rear
Mods: Custom CAI, Knocked Down EGR walls, Advanced Base Timing to 10 Degrees, Deleted Muffler, Bumped Fuel Pressure With a Quarter, TB bypass and thats it....Oh and on my Falken Ziex 512's... (normal street tires)
onto the best 3 times of the day
60 ft - 2.1188
330ft - 5.9899
1/8 - 9.2281 @ 76.77
1/4 - 14.3151 @ 96.54
60 ft - 2.1250
330ft - 6.0019
1/8 - 9.2422 @ 76.91
1/4 - 14.3310 @ 96.33
60 ft - 2.0790
330ft -5.9941
1/8 - 9.2532 @ 76.53
1/4 - 14.3691 @ 96.17
overall i was very impressed.. i was expecting 14.5's at BEST with it being a poorly prepped track... next is hopefully a set of headers and some stickier tires and 13's
#2
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Car: 3
Engine: inboard
Transmission: underfloor
That sounds good! I have done a 14.37 at 96mph in an Lb9 t5 car with baffles cut out of the airbox (camaro) siamesed runners, similarly cleaned up plenum, Hooker shorty headers with a cutout after the Y pipe, 10* base timing, but 3.08 gears. Pulled a 2.08 60' with drag radials. With the cutout capped and running through the catback I did two 14.73's back to back. Your car was obviously a g92 optioned car.
Mine also has 189,000 miles and smoking valve guides. It was 60* that day with minimal wind.
Mine also has 189,000 miles and smoking valve guides. It was 60* that day with minimal wind.
#4
Great times. My old 305, years ago went 14.15, with a one time best of 13.99, with more mods than you have. The 305 91-92 SD Fbodys ran pretty strong from the factory, with the most power of previous years. Definatley get some stickys before you do anything else. You will be suprised again.
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally Posted by DON 88T/A
Excellent...with headers/sticky tires a solid 13 sec.timeslip for sure...just shows what a well tuned 305/5spd combo is capable of...
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#8
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
thanks for the replies guys... i'm not even 100% sure if my cars a G92.... if it was would that be in the RPO codes? because the only ones i have that i can recall are the GU6 and G80 which is just POSI and 3.42's....
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Car: ws6
Engine: ls1
Transmission: m6
Axle/Gears: 3.42
ya check the RPO codes it would be in there. G92's are fairly rare....Be cool if you had a 1LE. Those are very rare though, and tough to come by.
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
its not a 1LE because i have A/C...and a Steel Driveshaft... i'll check for the G92 again when i leave class (sitting here right now) but im pretty sure it wasnt there the first time i looked... i could be mistaken tho...
#11
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
well i just checked my RPO sheet.. and theres no G92 anywhere...just the GU6 and G80....oh well....i almost had a G92 car!
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
Originally Posted by jethawk
well i just checked my RPO sheet.. and theres no G92 anywhere...just the GU6 and G80....oh well....i almost had a G92 car!
your not all that far off,, drop in the vettes oil cooler, dual cats, and some other bs parts and your good... nice times.
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Honestly... i have no clue what its at...i just put a quarter into my stock FPR...i read somewhere it was good for a few more PSI...i should probably check what its at right now....but whatever its at.. its working for me...
#15
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Yah LB9 5speeds can run well. check this out, nothin but a trans swap.
2800 Vigilante converter
TransGo shift kit
engine in sig
13.9@98.5 1.9 60ft
TKO600 5speed
engine in sig
13.70@100.5 2.1 60ft
Check it out, I gained .2 in the 60ft but still dropped .2 in the quarter and gained 2mph!
swapping from an automatic to a 'stick is like drinking Samuel Adams beer, "always a good choice"
2800 Vigilante converter
TransGo shift kit
engine in sig
13.9@98.5 1.9 60ft
TKO600 5speed
engine in sig
13.70@100.5 2.1 60ft
Check it out, I gained .2 in the 60ft but still dropped .2 in the quarter and gained 2mph!
swapping from an automatic to a 'stick is like drinking Samuel Adams beer, "always a good choice"
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
I JUST FOUND THIS THREAD and i must say very nice times man. these are mostly the exact same mods i am doing to mine. im looking for gears now, and i have located a t-5 and am probably going to swap it in i always wanted it to be manual but... quick Q though how do you advance the timing?
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
disconnect the EST wire on the passenger side in the engine bay... its a tan wire.. with a big weather pack connector... cant really miss it... then loosen your distributor hold down... its a 14mm nut...i found it kinda hard to get at...but dont loosen it to much... loosen it so it takes a little force to move your distributor.... then hook up the inductive pick up on your timing light to the #1 spark plug wire... and the positive and negative clamps onto the battery.... start your car... and and point the timing light.. and your timing tab which is right over your balancer more towards the driver side... then just turn the dizzy to ether advance or retard the timing to what you'd like... if your timing tab is all rusty you might have to get some sandpaper and sand off the rust so you can see the numbers on it... or if you have an advancable timing light.... set it to what you want your base timing to be... then turn the dizzy till the line on the balancer (you'll see it when your timing lights going) lines up with the biggest valley on the timing tab (biggest valley is normally 0 degree). Once you have the base timing to what you want it set at... turn the car off... tighten down the distributor... then turn the car on and check your timing again to see if the distributor moved.... if it didnt... turn the car off again... reconnect your EST wire...take out your timing light.. and your ready to rock an roll!
if someone reads this and i forgot something just chime in...
if someone reads this and i forgot something just chime in...
#20
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Originally Posted by mw66nova
how much is a Tremec TKO 600, RAM clutch and Pro 5.0 shifter? also, can this hold 500hp without issues? how 'bout 600+hp?
The TKO600 will stand up to 600hp, hence the name. Talk to Ray Brock at 5speedtransmissions.com, the TKO600 is $1900. My car and tons of install pics should be on his site very soon actually. I am using a RAM powergrip clutch that is the next step above the normal replacement clutch (it was around $330). RAM rates the normal replacement clutchs at 450hp I believe so I have no idea what the Powergrip is rated at. The clutch disk is organic on one side and ceramic or something like that on the other. It chatters from time to time, has a stiff pedal, and engages quick, but man does it bite. Talk to anyone with a stick, the Pro 5.0 shifter is a no brainer.
Yah my trans and clutch are way overbuilt for my currrent motor, but now I am prepared. My current 305 is down what I estimate to be about 30hp to what it could be for 2 reasons, I do not have a roller cam,(i want less duration but more lift) and my compression is probably down to 9:1 because I am using the stock GM L98 .050" gaskets with my stock pistons. I also still have the stock intake parts but the jury is still out on how much of a restriction they are. All on the stock chip as well. Laugh all you want but I would like to attempt to build another 305 now that I know more about it than I did when I built this one. Full machining, blueprinting and balancing, all the small stuff. I think I can milk 350hp out of the LB9 if I do it right and still average 18-20mpg city and highway like I do now.
#21
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oh, i still plan to build that 334 that i talked about so long, but this particular car is for going fast, and the 360 gets the job done.
i'm looking for when i go to put more power to the ground. to have a 700r4 built even more than i already have is going to be a $2500 endevor, and i'm not sure i wanna stay with auto, but i DO want to keep OD. all i know is that my tranny is rated to 400hp, and i'm making 430ish right now, and i plan on a biggER cubic inch sbc and want something that can handle 550ish hp.
i'm looking for when i go to put more power to the ground. to have a 700r4 built even more than i already have is going to be a $2500 endevor, and i'm not sure i wanna stay with auto, but i DO want to keep OD. all i know is that my tranny is rated to 400hp, and i'm making 430ish right now, and i plan on a biggER cubic inch sbc and want something that can handle 550ish hp.
#22
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Originally Posted by jethawk
disconnect the EST wire on the passenger side in the engine bay... its a tan wire.. with a big weather pack connector... cant really miss it... then loosen your distributor hold down... its a 14mm nut...i found it kinda hard to get at...but dont loosen it to much... loosen it so it takes a little force to move your distributor.... then hook up the inductive pick up on your timing light to the #1 spark plug wire... and the positive and negative clamps onto the battery.... start your car... and and point the timing light.. and your timing tab which is right over your balancer more towards the driver side... then just turn the dizzy to ether advance or retard the timing to what you'd like... if your timing tab is all rusty you might have to get some sandpaper and sand off the rust so you can see the numbers on it... or if you have an advancable timing light.... set it to what you want your base timing to be... then turn the dizzy till the line on the balancer (you'll see it when your timing lights going) lines up with the biggest valley on the timing tab (biggest valley is normally 0 degree). Once you have the base timing to what you want it set at... turn the car off... tighten down the distributor... then turn the car on and check your timing again to see if the distributor moved.... if it didnt... turn the car off again... reconnect your EST wire...take out your timing light.. and your ready to rock an roll!
if someone reads this and i forgot something just chime in...
if someone reads this and i forgot something just chime in...
Should this be done at operating temperature?
#23
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
hehe yea... thanks... i knew i'd probably forget something!
anyways i might be going to the track again this coming sunday... and i might drop the tire pressure down some... and try adding a little more timing and maybe come out with a 14.2 or 14.1... that'd be pretty sweet!
anyways i might be going to the track again this coming sunday... and i might drop the tire pressure down some... and try adding a little more timing and maybe come out with a 14.2 or 14.1... that'd be pretty sweet!
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Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
Nice times. Hopefully you get improve even more next time out.
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Car: '92 Toyota Pickup
Engine: 22R-E
Transmission: 5sp Manual
Axle/Gears: 4:??
Nice times, give yourselves credit as well. Would be nice to see that thing hit 13's w/ only those mods. Very Impressive.
#26
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1991 Firebird Formula... T5....305 TPI...Dual Cat....3.42 rear
G92's had the 3.42's and bigger l98 cam and were rated at 230hp. base Lb9 was just 205hp. if your car is just the base then with those mods, those times are even more impressive
#27
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula WS6
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
well if it helps i got my car dyno'd when i just had my custom CAI, TB bypass and Knocked down EGR walls... and made 206 RWHP and 291 RWTQ....so either i got the G92 options without the G92 RPO code... or i have some kinda factory freak...
#28
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
If you have dual cats, you have a 230hp,, but it may not last due to your engine getting hot quickly. Drop in an oil cooler. The dual exit exhaust is nothing special and it really doesn't help, same plumbing,, the only difference for the dual exit is the muffler.
Base 5 speed is 220hp. Auto car had 205hp.
Base 5 speed is 220hp. Auto car had 205hp.
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