ineeedmorespeed

Check my sig for most of the details about my car.

Its main mods are an engine swap (305 to 350), exhaust, a beefed up 700r4 tranny and a mild cam. It has a 350 Vortec 1-pc truck block slightly built with the stock TPI unit, stock 19# injectors (from the original 305ci), stock 2.73 gears, and mostly everything else is stock other than the usual "tune-up" stuff.

Here is my timeslip:

R/T ... .446
0-60 ... 2.117
330 ... 6.036
1/8 ... 9.285
MPH ... 73.72
1000 ... 12.121
1/4 ... 14.569
MPH ... 91.35

I didn't have really **** for traction. Street tires with nothing more than Hotchkis subframe connectors.

Does that 1/4 time seem right?

It was my best out of maybe 15 runs throughout the day.

What do you guys think I'll run with the following mods:

HSR intake (or similar - vortec style)
SLP cold-air intake
58 mm TB
Comp Cam with a 230 dur and .510 lift (vs. .450 lift currently)
1 3/4 headers
24# injectors
March pulleys
LCAs and relocators
3.42 gears
100 wetshot n2o
MSD 6AL
MT ET Streets
misc rear-end "strengtheners" i.e. rear-end girdle, pinion spacer, etc.

I'm looking for an 11 sec street machine. Hence the n2o.


Do you guys think I should spend $750 NOW to upgrade my 10-bolt rearend to a 9-bolt BW with disc brakes installed and a 3.42 gear setup or should I stick with the 10-bolt and wait 'til later to upgrade rear-ends?

A better question: How much power can a typical 10-bolt GM rear-end with a strong axle, rear-end cover, pinion spacer, and 3.42 gears hold??? Is it mandatory to upgrade when running in the 11s???

I'm looking at at least another year before all the above mods are done...I don't necessarily have $$$ falling out of my @#!

Just for comparison:

If my only mods from this point on were upgrading gears from 2.73 to 3.42 and slappin' some slicks on there what do you think my 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would improve to?

Thanks in advance for anyone's input!!!!!!!!!

P.S.

With all the above modifications in mind and the goal to have an 11-sec street car should I just look to swapping in a built 383 stroker rated at 469hp?

ineeedmorespeed

any comments on this? THANKS!!!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

get the drivetrain squared around first with the ability to get the power to the ground. i personally have been 1.649 to the 60' and 87 T/A has been 1.3x's, all on a 7.5" 10 bolt with a cover, pinion spacer, lca relocation brackets and a good eaton posi. i'm still running stock 28 spline axles, i think 87 T/A upgraded to mosers. so here's what i'd do first:

-yes, 3.42's will help tremendously.
-put a cover and solid pinion spacer on it when you do the gear swap
-upgrade to a series 3 carrier made for 28 spline axles
-get some 28 spline axles from a 1990+ rearend(you may already have these as they started halfway through the 89 production year)
-lca relocation brackets, regardless if the car is lowered or not, having a suspension that is tunable is ALWAYS a good thing.
-sticky tires of sorts, i'm a big advocate of the M/T ET Street RADIALS, though a full slick will work too.
-i'd do this stuff to your 10 bolt instead of buying a 9 bolt cause you'll be money ahead. if you can setup gears, you can do all the above for $700 or less (look on here for good deals and whatnot on hard parts) but if you go with a 9 bolt, unless you have the rearend laying around (i'm assuming you're talking about an Aussie 7.75" 9 bolt and not a ford 9") you'll pay out the butt for the rear, then pay out the butt again for hard parts, cause they aren't as readily available. and when built right, the 10 bolt can handle a serious amount of abuse.
-is it mandatory? hmm...well i've broken stuff running mid/low 12's, so if you're planning on 11's...yes, i'd say so.
-look into getting a REAL torque converter by someone like Art Carr, ATI, BTE, Edge, Yank, or the like. those guys know their stuff and can point you in the right direction for converters. off the shelf just don't get the job done in a REAL performance application.

i could see you utilizing more camshaft, but honestly, do the things i said first, and they will help get the power you have right now down to the ground. make the car work together as a unit with all the parts working together, instead of working against each other. once you get a handle on the current power, THEN start adding more power to it...and please get some sticky tires!

ineeedmorespeed

Woh man thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

don't pay to put gears in a 10 bolt rear end. These are a dime a dozen at a junkyard, find one there with the gear ratio and posi options you want. pay $150-200 TOPS and take it home after checking it out at the junkyard.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

sound advice from mr. xpndbl. however, i'd still look at putting a solid spacer in it. it's a $20 insurance piece of mind type of thing...

ineeedmorespeed

Yea I did get the spacer all ready ;0) I'm gonna go to the junkyard soon. I need a couple things...my current rear axel is slightly bent. Obviously I'm replacing that but...what should I look to upgrade to? I thought a 28 spline was what was stock?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

28 spline is stock in 90-92 cars. furthermore, if you want 3.42 geared posi's check for option codes on the RPO sheet, and G80 for posi in the RPO sheet list. you can also find the "posi lube necessary" tag on the rear end if still present. then just remember what ratios you are looking for. 41/11 stamped on the ring gear would be 3.73 etc etc.

ineeedmorespeed

that is some good information I didnt even think to ask...thanks