JUNKYTRANSAM

iTrader: (1)

i have 2 buddys who i've gotten into drag racing and hot rods here recently, unfortunatly one of them bought a stang, the other has an f body, but its a 81... we'd all like to build our cars to run strip, but also enjoy the street, We've come up with a plan, were gonna buy a piece of crap. and build it cheap! used pistons, the works.. We've already got a donor 305 block, we thought about steep gears, 4.86 or so, but will a 305 breathe enough? obviously its gonna turn some Rpms.. whats a decent set of heads to get a hold of cheaply? we've talked about 882s and dome pistons, b/c they had such a small runner volume. or would vortecs be better? its probably gonna get sprayed, and it prob not gonna last long, i know. any suggestions to make a 305 ride let me know, largers cubes practical, but were kinda wantin to see what we can do with this mouse..

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

junk the 305 idea, get a good running 350, vortec heads, 3.73 gears, comp XE274 cam and a 3500 stall TH350 and it should run bottom 12s in a 3400 pound race weight car with a performer rpm air-gap and a 750 dp holley.

that 305 will not like those rpms or those gears.

IROC4LIFE

YES.

This is the combo to start out with, its simple, cheap, and it WORKS. Not to mention later on you can toss a BAD *** cam at it with more gear/converter and should go mid 11's, or put the Juice to it.

Just to add, use TRW 2055 pistons, either LT1 (95-97) or Pink Rods (if you can't find those Scat I beams work great) and a Stock Steel or LT1 Nodular Iron Crank. (again if you can't find those, use a Scat 9000 crank) Ive seen little motor's like this go 11.20's@129mph on a 150-175shot in a 3200lb car on Radials.

IROC.

AlkyIROC

Don't waste your time with a 305 unless you're racing in something like Stock Eliminator. The small cylinder bore really restricts what you can do for performance. Start with the larger bore 350 since all the money you plan on investing into the 305 will be better spent on the 350. With the small bore 305, you can't put very big valves in the heads to help it breath.

882 are garbage heads. They're the best of the worst. There are much better factory castings to pick from.

I ran a dirt cheap 383 stroker into the high 11's about 8 years ago. 350 block, cast 400 crank, cast 350 pistons, 400 factory rods and rod bolts. I had some old camel hump heads ported out with big valves and springs. Solid cam with around .550 lift. Single plane intake with an 850 DP carb. Put power through a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter. 4.10 gears and 28" tires. I think I got a best of 11.8 at around 117 mph before the engine finally let go. Not sure if a piston or rod bolts failed but there wasn't much left of the engine. I yanked the heads and intake off and threw the rest in the scrap metal bin at work. There was nothing else salvageable.

85Firebird350

iTrader: (3)

Deffinately stay away from the 305's. I just sold a really nice 400sbc core for $300 so theres always better options. A nice 350 like mentioned before is a very good idea.

88bracketT/A

It all depends how fast you want to go. I built a 84 Z about 15 years ago on the cheap and got the 305 to go 12.87 before it grenaded. This is what it had in it:

Stock 70,000 mile 305 L69 short block
416 heads with a 3 angle valve job
Crane hyd. .467 I 494 E Dur 278 290 (used)
Old style Torker intake (used)
650 Dp Holley (used)
mallory unilite dizzy (used)
Hooker Long tubes with 18" collector extensions (new)
9" 4000 stall converter in stock 700R4
Stock 7.5 rear 3.08 gear with spiders welded together
9 x 28 Goodyear slicks
All steel body with full interior
Heater box and front sway bar removed
Sumped stock tank and holley blue pump.
All motor no spray.

Best et 12.87
Best 60 ft 1.75

After the 305 came apart I put in a stock 350 target short block and the 305 top end and it picked up 2 tenths. Then the 700R4 went and put in a turbo 350 and it was back to 12.80 's.

Best et 12.65 (with 700R4)
Best 60ft 1.67

With both motors the car was real consistant and went rounds.