I installed a Crane Compucam 2032 (270deg int duration,276deg ex duration, 110deg LSA) and i LOST over 3 tenths in the quarter! I have two theories: 1. I have been tinkering with the chip (w/moates software) and have made some very minor changes. Less than optimal at the moment however (tuning rookie). 2. I have 2.77 gears with stock tpi, stock heads, and stock converter. Im slightly over-cammed for the current combo. I think it may be a combination of the two, but mostly point number 2 - over-cammed, under-geared. I'm bummed. What does everyone think?

did you degree the cam when you installed it?

Yup, Crane recommended 0 deg so thats where i put it..

Oh yeah i'm runnin 46psi fuel pressure to help a lean condition that was there.. Turns out there was a few very loose intake runner bolts. I tightened em, but plugs still are white-as...

i would lean with a combination of the two but mostly number 1 or an install problem somewhere.

compucam 2032 is 214/220 with .45x/.46x lift if i recall right. step up from stock and should make a bit more power than stock thats for sure. Its not a huge cam over stock so the lowend will still be there, so the stock gears/tpi wont hold it back that much. you should only gain, not lose ET with that cam

I'm guessing its gonna want just a tad more fuel overall than stock and will like more timing.

Goodpoint about degreeing the cam, but if you used a aftermarket good quality timing set and installed it dot to dot, it should run just fine.

I'd datalog the setup and look at your BLM/INT values and then look for any knock retard in degrees. Use tunerpro RT for that and get moates ALDL cable for the scanning. Checking plugs will work great too.

without knowing exactly what your a/f ratio is stock, its hard to say if your new setup will need more fuel or not. my guess is it will need more, something like 5% more in the PE tables from 3500-5000 rpms.

Also try bringing in max timing sooner at like 3200rpms and keep it at 34-35 till 4500. Just something to try

But watch the weather and your 60 foot times. play with shift points too with the new cam. those factors in there could mean a 1-2 tenth difference. keep playing with it

EDIT: if plugs really white, then add 10-15% more fuel in the PE vs RPM table. the values in those tables are percentages, so just add 10 more to the numbers in those charts.

but did you actually use a wheel or did you trust crane and lined up the dots?

Thanks for the tip! But wont that table only help under high load conditions?

I cant datalog at the moment so i'll get a ALDL cable soon, hopegully the whole realtime setup too.
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We (my grandad and i) didnt use a degree wheel, we used a dial guage on the number 1 cylinder valve (intake or exhaust i cant remember) to check lift at 0.050" lift. We double checked the timing gear degrees as it was a real prick to get it on. The cam locating pin at the front was a bit long and made it difficult. It has a fairly new double row timing chain with about 10,000miles on it. I'm new to the whole valvetrain setup thing but my gdad know what he's doing so i try to learn from him.
Seem ok?

If the plugs are ghost white then obviously it won't run as well as it could. Get it tuned properly then post results.

IMHO, you are overcammed for your setup. Regardless of your tune (which is most likely off a good bit.)

Another thing to check, is valvespring tension.

keep adding fuel in small increments in the PE vs RPM table and keep checking the plugs after WOT passes. should see increased performance each time you add fuel your probly over 14 to 1 AFR now, my motor ran there this summer and still made 254whp. plugs were white, i never checked them. My injectors are 24lb advertised but i think they act like 23's or something. i was rich when i had stock 22's till they failed.

Kool, I upped the PE vs Fuel Enrichment scale by 10% across the board. Then went for a quick drive, bout 15miles, and they look no different yet.

Will this richen up part throttle settings? My PE is set to kick in at 70% throttle position if that helps....

you have to make a full WOT pass, then shut it off at the top of 3rd....coast to a stop, pull over and check the plugs. You can't make a pass, idle to a stop then check them.

no it wont change part throttle, as PE only occurs in WOT. AS above said, by the time you shut down from wot and let the car idle alittle, the lean condition can come back to make the plugs white

i would only try adding PE fuel in the 3000+ rpm ranges for now. If you want more fuel at part throttle you can mess with the MAF tables in the appropriate areas, or slightly fudge the injector constant, meaning make it less than actual injector value. injectors will control fuel across the board at all throttle responses. MAF tables will only effect the fueling for a specific range. Idle tuning uses MAF table 1, and most light part throttle is in table 2. table 3-4 is heavy throttle input like half throttle to 3/4 ish. Getting into 5-6 are WOT. For mostly mild L98's your barely getting into table 6. most of the good fuel in the 4000-5000 range is in upper ends of table 5 i believe based on my experience with it.

Some say never to adjust the MAF Scalar values as it effects alot of stuff. I say go for it especially in table 1-2. those are the main part throttle areas and i've found changing the scalars down 1 setting will really help lean it out. In your case you may want to try moving the scalar up one setting in table 1-2. maybe even table 3 just to see if it really changes the plugs.

Easiest quickest way to make the car run richer so you can get an idea how much fuel you need is probly to adjust the injector constant. if your running 22 lbs injectors, make the constant 20 and see what happens. it should be noticeably richer. Try that to see if the plugs change color. Then if it does you can change the constant back to 22, and adjust the MAF scalars/tables to bring the proper fuel in.