Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
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It has Been a long time, Workin alot lately.
I almost got the car ready for the strip should be there this year.
I got a bunch of new stuff heres few pics I still need to pull the headers and get the powder coated they sure started to rust fast.
Still Needs a lil cleaning up I jus got the sub frame connectors in All i lack is the roll cage i jus got to get it welded in.
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Last edited by 92 CaMaRo Rs; 04-19-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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looks nice, thats wat i wanna do with my 92 rs. its getting there.
__________________ CLEARING HOUSE!! EVERYTHINGS FOR SALE- my car-parting out 1987 Camaro IROC-z tpi, chipped, 700r4, black interior, 4th gen dash swap, 4th gen wheels, and all the other parts i have. ask i prolly got it!
Looks good so far. With that cam i would say a 3800-4000 stall, if your stuck on a 3.73 gear i would say to run a 26" rear tire to help overall gear ratio, 27" max for a bit mroe roll out and traction. Stock rear end even with all the axle tube welding, pre loaded rear diff cover, etc... i still ate up 4 of these running high 12's years back sheering the teeth right off the ring gear and that was only 1.7? 60's.
I would venture a guess at high 11's given all the specs. Patriot heads are much better than stock iron but can still use some work based on the guys i see trying to run them locally. Port size to cam spec is about spot on so that is nice. Fuel pump is way too small, esspecially with the fuel line you have, do yourself a favor and mount a fuel pressure guage in a position you can watch it when going down track, it will help you solve why the car acts funny at the big end...been there done that with every red, blue, black pump holley had to offer years ago before i got a bigger better pump that could keep up down track and not go from 8psi idle to 3psi at WOT and lower by the 1000' mark.
Carb will work for now, but definately step into a larger cfm when money allows, call Pro system and you will get a custom built carb to your exact combination cheaper than a box stock holley that will need lots of work to run as good as Pat's carb.
you'll be eating up a little hp using the stock water pump along with the added weight of it.
I'm not trying to nit pick your combo, just showing you the area's you will see increases when time and money allows you to change them based on experience.
I got 4.56 gears cause its a 1/8 mile here. I know i could use a much larger stall it went from being street legal to nothin but drag so i have some area to improve i know.
As for the carb i knew i could use a bigger one but the guy that built my motor said it was perfect =\ what cfm you think i should go. And what fuel pump would u recommmend.
water pump isnt stock but its not aluminum we painted it red is all.
__________________ Engine- 69 350 .40 over, 185cc patriot aluminum heads 2.02 valves 1.60 exhaust 64cc, .40 over flat top speedpr pistons, 442 steel forged crankshaft,1.6 roller rockers erson roller cam 548 lift cam. 298/306 duration, victor jr tunnel ram 6 inch high rise, 750 Holly 4 bbl double pumper.Accel high performance dist. 8.5 accel wires 10.5.1 compression
Transmission- 700r4 with tv tv boost valve .500" 4th gear superhold dual servo low rev boost valve beast sunshell master kit with zpac 3/4's extrawide high performance band 29 segment sprag high performance shiftkit also has corvette servo rear planet with oil baffle borg warner low roller clutch trango high rev return springs trango maual valve body shift kit with 3000 stall conveter, and Megashifter.
Rear end- 10 Bolt 28 spline 7.5 with Moser axels, welded posi unit, Richmond 4.56 gears, new seals bearings everything. 3/4 ton springs in back with new shocks its been welded around the tubes and housing and has braces coming from housing to tubes.
Exhaust- head man shorties with side pips 3 inches wide
5 gal. fuel cell 1/2 line to holly red fuel pump 1/2 line to bg 5000 fuel filter 1/2 line to holly reg 3/8 line to dual line for carb
8 point roll cage subframe connectors 90/10 drag struts 4 inch hardwood cowl.
I got 4.56 gears cause its a 1/8 mile here. I know i could use a much larger stall it went from being street legal to nothin but drag so i have some area to improve i know.
As for the carb i knew i could use a bigger one but the guy that built my motor said it was perfect =\ what cfm you think i should go. And what fuel pump would u recommmend.
water pump isnt stock but its not aluminum we painted it red is all.
Look into the Magnafuel or Aeromotive pumps for a long term high output pump, once you get it out with the fuel system you have, provided you mount a fuel pressure guage within easy sight making your run you will see it drop big time in pressure since it's just not enough to keep up under load on an engine making good power. I know other's have had luck with it (blue and black) but my old 388 making roughly 525-540hp the red dropped me .3 one day after the blue took a dump and all the local store had was a red, front end dropped like a rock around the 1000' mark. Being's how your running 1/8mile it may be just fine, but let that thing stretch it's legs on a long track and you'll see/feel what i'm talking about.
Just about every dyno shop will monitor how much air is being ingested intot he engine and to them that means, "well at max output your engine (i'll use mine for example) is only sucking 798cfm so they'd be inclined to say an 800cfm carb is all i need. The reality of the situation is it's very hard to over carburate a race engine, esspecially a drag race engine. ET may not pick up but mph, Pat at Pro System worked hand in hand doing engine dyno testing and then the same customers engines in the cars on the track, and like i have personally seen, when dynoing and jumping up carb sizes it screws the curve's up, makes them peaky, makes them come in soon and fall off quickly, but on the track it's a completely different story, they have ALWAYS picked up ET and MPH. I was running my current 950HP on my first very very mild 355. Originally i had a 750DP on it and bought the 950HP (1 or 7 brand new and ever increasing carburators i bought that season for both trying to go faster and experimenting purposes, each time i increased cfm the car picked up. I went from 13.7's to 13.00 at the end of the year with the largest of all carburators installed. (i started with a 600cfm and increased upto the 950HP)
Same story when we dynoed the 550hp 383 in my uncles truck, the dyno said we only needed 670cfm at max effort, I asked they install a 850 they had in stock and everybody said it lose power since it does'nt need that much...and it did on the dyno, it dropped way off to the tune of 20hp and 15tq. so they sold him a 750HP. At the track however, after a number of runs and really good baseline with the 750, i took the 950 off my car and stuck it on the truck...should slow down based on dyno reports right?? Wrong, we picked up 3mph and .02 in ET with zero tuning to his engine, just stuck it on off my 355 and ran it so there was more in it obviously.
Alot of times dyno guru's get tunnel vision, and that's why those of us who have dynoed know the numbers are just that, dyno numbers, and we care about track numbers since we're not racing dyno's. They're a fantastic tuning AID, nothing more.
I finaly got all got almost all of the car back together so i rolled it out and washed it .
I ran it for a lil bit I have open headers right now took exhaust off for a bit. It was extreamly loud but ran smooth i was happy with it I need to put my slicks on the back but i didint want to till i was ready for the track Still need to install rollcage hopefully this weekend.
CLEARING HOUSE!! EVERYTHINGS FOR SALE- my car-parting out 1987 Camaro IROC-z tpi, chipped, 700r4, black interior, 4th gen dash swap, 4th gen wheels, and all the other parts i have. ask i prolly got it!
