noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Finally getting started on this project i'm not looking to break any records. This car went 13.2 @ 103 with stock suspension with adjustable torq arm and 3.73s little cam and flat tops I'm hoping to get high 11s to low 12s with this engine and turbo but when it blows im hoping high 10s to low 11s with more boost and built motor. Im a college student so this might go sorta slow, hoping to have it running by april of '10

here is my first build thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...blue-bird.html

ENGINE
keeping what i have in there for now until something breaks
-hydro. roller. 212/218 .488/495 112 lsa cam 1.6rr
-stock bore 350 hyp. flat tops
-64cc ported heads
-single plane victor jr intake

FUEL
I am hoping to put the carb in a box and ship it to the guys at CSU for the blow thru mods and get one of their carb hats. I will be running a mallory boost referenced fuel pressure regulator 4309 with -6an feed line and -8an return line. Right now i will keep my single walbro in tank, i can always put another one in later on. 2 -6 an lines to each bowl.

IGNITION/TUNING
I ordered a msd 6al-2 digital programmable 6530 so i can tweak the timing curve as well as launch controls and rev limiters. I will lock timing at around 36* and adjust everything on my computer. Magnetic pick up distributor and blaster 2 coil

undecided on wideband should i go lc-1 or aem uego???

TURBO PARTS
master power t70 with .96 housing, -3 an oil feed line with no restrictor, -10 an return line. 2.5" hot side pipes to a 31x12x3 intercooler and 3" from ic to carb hat and 3" downpipe. and 3" borla cat back system. Havent decided on headers yet but i think i might give those chinese single turbo headers a try.

DRIVETRAIN
swaping rear end with my brother, he is getting my freshly rebuilt 10 bolt posi with 3.73s and i'm getting his freshly rebuilt 9 bolt posi with 3.45s i figured lower gears would help. adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard arm, umi lca, and relo. brackets. I have KyB GFX all around but might go with 50/50s in the back all through a t56 and since i have all the interior out i will go ahead and install the roll cage.

MISC
Not the right place to talk about this but i ripped all the interior out and will be installing a 02 ws6 dash with its matchin center console for a 6speed as well as a full autometer gauge set

All comments, concerns advice are appreciated

This is gonna be interesting!!!!!

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

this one needs some sandblasting


test fitting the intercooler

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

It looks like you did your research to pick those parts. Sending the carb out is a smart thing in terms of taking that out of the equation of things that could go wrong. What size Holley DP is that?

I don't know if you have the 3" outlet flange for the MP, but I came across this flange & clamp and it fit on the MP T70 I had in my hands. The price is right.

UNIVERSAL 3.0" V-BAND VBAND CLAMP KIT 1CLAMP/2 FLANGES!
speedyracer-honda ( 2587 [Feedback score is 1,000 to 4,999] )
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...Q5fAccessories

I have the single setup on an engine in the garage right now. If you need any pics let me know. I think I posted pics with the driver's side measurement before when people asked about steering rod clearance.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Yeah def. i figured i might as well spend the extra money on the carb and have it done the right way. It is a 750 cfm

thanks for the link, the price is much better than what ive been looking at, i just needa find the mild steel one.

I do have a question about the headers, what spark plugs did you use? i know runners 6 and 8 get in the way and normal plugs dont fit. I saw some accel shorties but i could find any step cooler plugs

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Like most ebay china parts AD, it is misleading. The two rings are magnetic as in a magnet sticks to them. It is either mild steel or a 409 sort of stainless. Judging by the color it is mild steel.

I will look at the plugs later today and get back to you.

defaced

iTrader: (6)

I'm subscribing to this. Love watching other people's build threads, especially when they involve a turbo.

Very nice looking car man. Love the color and really diggin' the wheels.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Also wondering what plugs are a step colder and are shorty style to fit my hookers

elano

iTrader: (2)

This is an awesome setup, keep up the good work!!!

sleepybu

whats the inlet and outlet sizes on the compresser

thanks

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

thanks guys.

I beleive the inlet is 4" and the outlet is 2.5"

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

i sand blasted the intake last night and cleaned it

and pained it

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

i also made an upper mounting bracket for the intercooler i still have to make a bottom one but i ran out of steel



Im gonna have to make some relocation mounting bracket for the power steering lines


im gonna have to get creative with the bottom mounting bracket for the ic.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

doing a little bit of test fitting with the headers,


i have tall valve covers to clear the 1.6 rr so i will either have to modify that one valve cover or ad like a 1 1/2" spacer to the turbo manifold other thand that the manifolds fit decent, i just ordered a 2.5" stainless steel vband assembly kit for the crossover pipe and i have to modify the manifold flange to clear my fan switch and the gauge sender unit on the heads.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Looking good man! I love the colour and stance of the car.

wanna do me a huge favour? I am deciding between the super vic and the vic JR.

How tall is the vic jr or how much hieght do you have from the carb flange on the vic jr to the top of the cowl. I measure around 5.5 with a super vic on my car. I wanna see if I can get away with a stock hood on a vic jr with my 2 inch tall FAST throttle body and 4inch tall carb hat.

Thanks

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Ill get you some measurements when i get home, im planning on taking the old air-gap off and put the new on so pictures should be up by tonight. I have a ram air hood but i think is 2 inches talll

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Jay, i got you some measurements and got stuck under the hood while measuring haha, from the carb flange on the intake to the hood there is about 8 3/4" of space


ok so i was able to get some cold range shorty style plugs at a local performance shop they are autolite ar132 for anyone needing short cooler range plugs


I took the performance air-gap intake off and test fitted the victor jr and come to realize i bought the wrong one, it is the one for pre 1986 sbc heads with angled center plugs

luckily i was able to put it on the milling machine at home and fix the holes so that wasnt a biggie, i will hopefully put it on tomorrow.

92RS(real slow)

curious how did those chinese turbo manifolds work out? did they fit well?

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

one of my previous posts with the pictures of the turbo test fitted explain the fitment of them.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Awesome thanks so much man! Looks like Ill just do a Victor JR, I was thinking it would hurt my hp a little bc i plan to make 850whp.

Your doing a grat job so far! Keep it up!

Jay

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

huh... I've been assured that there is no way a 4bbl TB+ carb hat will fit under a stock hood with any single plane. I have an accel 1000cfm 4bbl tb sitting around and a vic jr... what 4" carb hat are you using Jay?

noboostnogo- nice build, but am I allowed to chuckle about you sending the carb out yet (the whole reason you gave for not keeping the FI in your other thread was because you didn't want to have to send out to someone that has never seen a picture of the car for tuning...).

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Im using an extreme velocity carb hat, My throttle body is only 2 inches tall, its the lowest profile one made I believe.

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

lol you do have a good point. I did convert to carb so i didnt have to have someone else tune it for me but lack of time is making me send my carb out for the blow thru mods i will be doing the tuning myself and change jets etc accordingly. I just see this as pointing me in the right direction with the carb and ill go from there. Also this is a one time only instead of having to get a new chip everytime i up the boost or upgrade something.
BTW you have some great memory lol

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

so ur putting all that under the stock iroc hood?? my measurements are on a ram air hood which is like 2" tall sorry for the missunderstanding

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

picked up some new parts on thursday

oh boy was it a paint putting the roll cage in a 2 door car i should have driven the truck


msd 6al-2 digital programmable finally came in, all the wiring is still in the box


and finally the rth gen dash,

Damon

Looks like a nice build. And who doesn't like having their own milling machine?

Coupla little things I may be able to help you with....

Those lines that are obstructing your intercooler piping down by the bottom of the radiator support..... you can ditch those. It's a REALLY CHEESY power steering fluid cooling system. Just a loop of tubing on the return-side of the power steering pump that runs along the bottom edge of the radiator support. In my experience, totally worthless for actually cooling the power steering fluid. Either install a REAL cooler, or just ditch the whole mess and run the return line direct from the steering box back to the pump (like zillions of GM cars had for decades without any problems). For drag racing or a street/strip straight-line performance application a power steering cooler system is........ well........ not strictly necessary.

Spark plugs..... Autolite AR plugs are fantastic plugs for clearance and making power, plus they are far less prone to detonation in a boosted/nitroused application than typical street-style plugs with a projected nose and full length side electrode. Unfortunately, the side-gap design is strictly race car stuff. Notice how the side electrode doesn't go over the top of the center electrode- that's a side-gap plug. They will wear out NIGHTMARISHLY FAST if driven on the street. Forget thinking in terms of how many thousands of miles. Think more like how many hundreds of miles. And you won't need to pull off your shoes, or probably even use your other hand to count how many. I won't be offended if you don't believe me right now. Just stick this one in your memory banks for when you're pulling your hair out why the motor isn't running quite right on your first trip home from the dragstrip.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

wow that is great to know i would have never expected those plugs to only last so little time, what plugs would you recommend?? i need them to be short style and cooler range due to header clearance

I did build some relocation brackets for the power steering lines but with the stuff you mentioned i might as well get rid of it and replace it with -6 lines.

89FRMLA350

Great looking car and nice build!

Damon

What plugs?..... would have to do some research. Normally, I'd use a set of Autolite 24 (just 24, no other letters or numbers). They're semi-shorty, one heat range colder than stock and fit your stock cast iron heads. Unfortunately, they are really better suited to N/A combinations since they have a projected nose and are designed for a gap of about .045".

For a forced induction application you really want all that BUT in a non-projected nose design and built for a smaller ~.035" gap.

Honestly, what comes immediately to mind is a set of inexpensive Accell shorty plugs. I know they make a set designed for your heads (tapered seat, 1/2" thread reach) and I know they are non-projected nose and built for a gap of about .035". Multiple heat ranges are available.

I pulled this after just a quick (non-thorough) search of the Summit site:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-8178/

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Hey I run TR-6s on my car, I gapped then tight at .028, seemed to work really well on my setup This was on 8psi, 6300RPM making 583 to the tire and a bum tune


Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info Jay, i might have to take mine back off and close the gap a bit more, i set it to .036 they were pre-gapped at .025. If what DAMON was sayin is true i will be havin to replace plugs in a few monts after i finish it so i will give those a try. How is your build coming along?

1970judge

What brand are the turbo manifolds?

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I can tell by looking at them they are the ebay/China/SS Auto Chrome small block chevy single turbo manifolds.

The come with a log style pass. side header, a regular driver's side header, and a cross over pipe. They were running about $250 shipped.
They are made of some sort of stainless steel 18 gauge with a 1 5/8" pipe and 2.5" crossover pipe. The flanges are mild steel.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

i was playing around in the garage the other night and took some measurements of the wall and it seemed to me like they were ~.064 which is 16ga. im gonna have to double check and take some pictures. That same night when my dad was milling the header flange to clear the water temp. sending unit he was saying that it seemed like some sort of stainless steel which was really hard but magnetic. how could i tell if its stainless or mild steel? it failed the magnet test lol

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

what wastgate are you going with? just wondering cause i have a pair of the same turbo headers siting around. do you plan on modifying your serpentine belt set-up?

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

just a 38mm, i do have to bore out the wastegate flange hole because it is only about 34mm

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

If you cut off the pipes going into the log header you would find that the log headers holes are only about 1 1/4" where the 1 5/8" pipe is welded on for the two end pipes. If you cut off the wastegate pipe at the log header you would find it is worse. I don't think the 34mm hole will really matter.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Hey thanks for the measurments on the intake I borrowed one to make sure and it fits on the stock hood.

Had to go prove everyone it DOES FIT

383 LT1
Poly mounts (so raised the motor a little bit)
Victor JR
FAST 1370CFM Throttle Body
Extreme Velocity O-ringed carb hat (3.8 inches tall)

Fits

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE: i'm gonna go ahead and put another walbro 255 in my take so ill have the dual walbro mod and be set with the fuel volume. My original plan was to go with -6 an feed and -8 an return

should i do -8an for both feed and return??? anyone know of a reliable hi-flow fuel filter???

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Mine is -8an feed, -6an return, works fine. wouldnt hurt to do dual -8a tho.

I also run 2 255's, make sure one is on a window or boost switch so they both arent always running and heating up!

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

i cant go with a smaller return due to carb backpressure and probably some rich problems. I think im just gonna do -8an feed and return

Good idea, i didnt think about that. Ill probably pick up this switch next time i go to my local performance shop
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=SNO-81014

what kind of switch did you use? i plan on running individual relays for the pumps, one that comes on with key switched 12v, and the other run the switched 12v through the boost switch and have it come on aroun 2psi or so

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

oh yaa duuuh forgot blow thru CARB hahaha. I actually just use my Mallory 685 box to control it and my meth.

BUT a cheaper was is go on ebay and search "hobbs switch" or boost switch and they should come up.

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

i havent been able to do anything lately, theres like 12" of snow on the ground and we're supposed to get another snow storm this weekend

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Snow sucks! I was in your shoes last year workin on my first detup in my moms driveway! Snowed alot!

I started runnin outta things to do so I started sanding my car hahah

Cant wait to see more progress

Jay

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

this is all ive done in the past couple days

i replaced the power steering loop with some teflon stainless steel braided lines


i machined the driver side header so it would clear the temp sender unit and wrapped it


i got a proform 35gph water pump and put it on


and finally i cut out all those little holes on the firewall as well as the big square so it will be easier to weld a new piece on there and later on in the future when i pull the engine out for a rebuild it will be easier to shave the engine bay and paint it blue

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

are these the same fitting you used on the steering box? I knoe the stock ones look like this but I never checked the thread.

Thanks

Jay


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EA...6ERL/?rtype=10

da.slyboy

iTrader: (1)

Someone put a little too much weight on that poor air filter

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

yeah that is one of them and here is the other http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991955ERL/
The return and feed are two dif. sizes i cant recall which one is which tho

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

yeahh it kinda got in the way and i didnt see it so i stepped on it, oh well