383backinblack

It's getting there, now that were past the "machine every part to make it fit before you can bolt it on" phase......

This should handle the massive power alot better than the stock block and the old rods and crank would have over time

I got the heads torqued down today finally, now all i have left to do is check the pushrod length and setup the valve gear, and glue on the intake.....then it'll be dyno time.

heres some pics.




heres the lockwire/o-rings....

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timing set on...



head gaskets

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heres the block all painted....took some time to mask it off and do it nicely...

383backinblack

timing cover on


oil pan on...





heads on.....

creepingdeath

Ive never seen an engine like that before what is it? Very nice though

383backinblack

its a 383 SBC lol......nothing super special about it, its just really really good parts

thanks man

86TA355SR

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Nice work, that thing is going to be awesome. What induction system?

SilentNight1647

What kind of rods are those? They look pretty meaty. I don't know about the aftermarket block though. I have heard nothing but bad things about them from all the guys who make big power around here. They all tell me that when you get one you have re-machine everything just to make it not so the whole thing doesn't bind up and explode. Thats a cool timing cover too, looks spendy. And just out of curiosity did you put the head studs in and slip the heads on over them or put the heads on the dowels and put the studs in through the heads? Looks like a fun project and it should last for a really long time.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

^.... you already know how I feel about the new setup, congrats man!

-Rob

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Your suppose to put the studs on the block first then slip the heads over, atleast what i was told.

What are you using to prevent leaks with the studs? I heard they are almost impossible to seal right, and you'll always have one or a few leak at some point.

What power numbers are you shooting for? I dont recall seeing any build posts by you with your goals, i'm just curious as to what your looking for out of the combo. It looks great tho!

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a nice high HP build. When I spend that much on parts and machine work I throw in the extra couple of bucks to have them assemble it. Why bother saving pennies and doing it and adding a reason for them to say it is your fault if it fails?

383backinblack

carburetor lol....thanks man.

383backinblack

you have to do that with ANY new block......thats how they're made.......any block thats brand new has to have the bores finished and the mains align honed.....if you buy a POS world products block or something, it might be a problem with bad core shift or something.......this is a dart little M.

there wasn't more than .0002 difference on any of main bearing clearances......which is stellar.......but there is alot of work with the caps being so large, you have to make sure your oil pan will clear them, all the oil galleys have threaded pipe ports for dry sump oiling so the appropriate ones need to be plugged and/or restricted....etc.

They make aftermarket blocks un-finished like that for a reason, because they don't know what you're going to do with it.....and alot of people want to machine the block THEIR way......so thats the biggest reason.....infinite configurations really.

The timing cover is from ATI and its a special one for the big block seal, because my crank has a BBC snout....and yes its pretty beefy, everyone at the shop commented on it lol.

You put the studs into the block first to make sure they're seated correctly.....it would be a pain to put them in afterwards........its not a big deal on this block, because it has blind head bolt holes.....but OEM blocks have some studs that protrude into the water jackets and those have to be sealed so the coolant doesnt leach up the studs.
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not with a dart block, the head bolt holes are blind.....they don't go through the deck into the water jackets.....no sealant required.

I don't do "goals" so to speak because that usually just leads to people talking s***.......but it was damn near 1,000hp at the crank before.......so it should make well in excess of that i hope.......as it made 827hp at the wheels, with only 20psi and 6500rpm (as opposed to 30psi and 7500)

thanks man.....i'm pretty psyched about it

383backinblack

thats why i built it WITH them, its in their shop lol.....it was well "supervised" by a guy with alot more experience than i have......its more of a collaborative effort, but they definitely did all the machine work.

it will be my fault if it fails......first of all, i assembled it.....and there are only so many things that can go wrong that are caused by machine work/assembly anyways......so thats not really a concern.

all the bearing clearances are right on, the mains and cam bearings are super straight......the thrusts are all perfect......

a RIDICULOUS amount of care went into putting it together, and its going to be broken in on the engine dyno anyways so anything that comes up will be handled right away anyhow.......

suffice to say, im not concerned about it......these guys have done great work for me for a long time, this was more of a "lets see what we can do with this thing" project than an everyday business project.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Did you work with Golen on this build? I remember you saying you knew the guys at that shop. i'm considering a shortblock from them

Anyway, with that power in mind, the only s*** talking that will be done is by you lol thats some bragging rights there man! good luck with that. i'll be looking for updates on this one!!

383backinblack

yup up at golens......good people, good work.....excellent shop. Chad's a great guy and all those guys know their s***, very very meticulous assembly.

they're world famous for their lt1 stuff, and their new lsx stuff is pretty sick too.......i was there last week when they had the guys bring in the first set of the gm ls6 heads with the full cnc port job on them.....sick looking stuff, great flow numbers.

i dunno man, one thing you learn in the car world.....is no matter what you do people will ALWAYS run their mouths about it lol

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

Looks killer man! Should scream for sure. You'll deffinately break the 1k hp mark this time. And i second Golens, i have a buddy with a 95 that had his 383 LT4 built up by them, he was at 595hp before the F1 was even bolted on. Thing is a monster. Where are you located at? Wouldnt mind doing some grudge racing when it warms up a bit.

383backinblack

im in massachusetts......

golens is pretty much the world authority on lt1/lt4 stuff haha....you should see how many of those engines they have up there, its insane. Chad's one of the only guys out there thats an expert on those motors and they build some damn nice ones.

They're local to me, and good guys.....i've been working with them for like 6 or 7 years now.

SilentNight1647

I apologize if I came off a little critical I'm just very skeptical of aftermarket blocks at this point because I've never broken a stock block even in my IMCA motors. It looks like you covered all the bases with this motor I applaud the effort put into making a bulletproof bottom end, I know it's not easy. I was just curious how you did your studs, I did mine the opposite way on a stock block and just used some aviation gasket sealer on the threads and none of them leak. Just two different ways of skinning the same cat.

383backinblack

ya it really doesnt matter, but i've never seen anyone put them in afterwards before.....just seems like alot more work to me, as you can't see the base of the stud......

OEM small blocks seem to like tp split open at about 950hp......alot better than a ford sb, but scary nonetheless.....just looking at the dart blocks is pretty impressive how much beefier they are everyplace than the factory blocks are......its a nice part.

Jeremy Brown

very nice stroker

Jeremy Brown

4 bolt main what kind of pistons are those I wonder seems different