Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Crossfire, I didn't cc the chambers so I can't tell you exactly what CR I am running. I did remove a fair amount from the chamber though because I specifically wanted a lower than stock compression ratio.
I am guessing that I am at about 8:1 or slightly less. A lot of guys run too much CR on a boosted engine, the IMO the least amount of compression that gives you the spool up you want is the best way to go. And if you don't get the spool up you want, run a nitrous system on a window switch. I have a 125 shot just to spool the turbo and it gets things going in a hurry. I also hardly use any nitrous because I have it shut off at 16 psi.
On that 11.2 pass I was running 23ish psi of boost with dual nozzle methanol injection.

About the TPI, another thing I learned about boost... it will do wonders for your intake restrictions. I am running a STOCK throttle body which is tiny. iirc 52 mm single bore (can't remember for sure right now). Moral of the story, I wouldn't get too wrapped up in air flow if you are going to put some boost to it. You need to focus on engine management, preferably something with wideband feedback and staying out of detonation. This means either running race gas, or my favorite, alcohol injection. Horsepower is just a matter of increasing the boost if you avoid detonation.
If I was going to build a turbo thirdgen from an LB9 I would just run methanol inj. a megasquirt, some cometics, a lot more injector, and an 8:1 CR. With stock unported heads and TPI I can't see any reason why it wouldn't run 10s. With a completely stock long block I ran a 7.2@97 in the 1/8th with my turbo buick. There's nothing about that engine that is any better than your 305.

Doom86

I'm kinda glad to hear I'm not the only one. That makes me feel better not pulling them this time. I bet Street Lethal should be good too with his heads.

I had the same problem too, stripped threads on countless nuts and a couple studs and had to re-thread the studs using a die, all that and on the very last one of 16 it cracked the stud boss when it broke loose. Did you use some oil on the nuts? It helps, but still hard to pull.

The 083 heads using the same method and hardware (highest grade nuts the hardware store had) it took 1 nut to pull them all and very little effort.

Xophertony

::subscribed::

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Overwhelmed with work would definitely be an understatement lol. It's coming along slowly but surely, as I fixed that little problem where the TPI intake seats on the cylinder heads. TPI setup has been done, gaskets have been trimmed to match, and I have my injectors all ready. I was such in a rush to get it done in the beginning, but I was forced to slow the build down (sorry about that), as work became very very demanding....

joker0907

sexyness!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Thanks. I'm going to retain the White/Blue look of the anniversary style on the exterior, so I hit the runners with the same blue as the injectors to go along with the scheme under the hood, and then I clear coated them. Also went with a blue BBK afpr, just waiting for it to get here and then I'll throw it on....

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

Looking good! I'm eager to see how it performs.

trbo355

I just found this buildup and its pretty damn cool! For the record, so much info gets thrown around during a magazine writeup that its hard to stay dead accurate. My 218 duration cam wasnt in the engine solely to pass emissions but made a hell of a good turbo cam that happened to be laying around in my garage.
I couldnt pass emissions forever due to the 55 lb injectors and poor MAP resolution in the super low RPM ranges. A set of 17 lb injectors and a 1 bar MAP tune got it to pass.
The Summit 224 cam performed virtually identical to the 218 dur. Comp 268. The cam you picked should work pretty damn good. I also like the TA-49 turbos but your gonna need to spin them HARD to get the power number you need. The Compressor map says 20 lbs max but run those bitches 25 lbs as the power level you find in that last 5 lbs boost KICKS ***!
The 305 bottom end should survive the power. Did you crank the head bolt torque at least 80-85 lbs? It takes that much to make the gaskets live. I think you should pony up the cash for a Holley Commander 950 computer and re-pin a stock TPI harness to mate up to it. The computer is 500 bucks and worth every penny.

Get 55 or 60 lb high Z injectors and let it rip. Also you might as well score a used NOS system and hit it with 100 or so shot as it will help it get off the line without a transbrake and preserve the rearend for a few passes. 9's is a pretty lofty goal but i think you can pull it off! Its gonna take some good HP to make up for the lazy launches compared to what i do with a transbrake. If you can crack some 1.6xx 60 ft times, the rearend should live but your gonna need enough HP to run at least 135-138 mph trap speed to make it happen.
Im pretty excited for this build! Oh yeah, on the sublect of all my free dyno time, borrow someones Innovative wideband and find a long stretch of road and you can accomplish the same level of tuning with a little patience.
The ignition timing is easy. Set it at 22 degrees WOT and never look back. Any more will just kill the bottom end and (at least on a 350) left only 5-10 hp on the table from optimum no matter what cylinder head i ran. Your stroke length (same as a 350) sets your advance requirements more than anything and the smaller bore shouldnt change things much. After that, dont run it lean and keep the octane up and no amount of tuning errors will kill it before you hit the sweet spot!

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at 28psi with a good intercooler in order to make this happen if you can manage a reasonable 300fwhp/240rwhp before boosting, so it's not like it's out of the question, but not really easy either. Just for fun if we look at making 350fwhp n/a, then 22psi should get a 9 sec. pass.

Doom86

It's very well possible he'll be making over 300hp at the flywheel depending on how the heads were worked.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

The head gaskets were brought down to a torque value of 75 foot pounds, but once I got some heat into them I would have gone back and finalized them at 85 foot pounds. When I explained that I fixed the TPI intake to cylinder head issue, this was because I decided to go with another set of heads that I had entirely (a set of 333882's 1.94/1.50). More flow on the intake side as opposed to the 416's 1.84, but compression would now be lowered even more because of the 882's 76cc, so its off to the machine shop to get compression back to 8.5:1. Throttle Body is 54mm (900-cfm). Should make over 300-FWHP w/out boost, but because of the low compression, not by that much.

trbo355

The 882 castings have a much better deck surface compared to the lightweight cast 416 and should help seal the head gaskets better at high boost. When my car first got running, it had a bone stock TPI with a 58mm throttle and minor port cleanup and the difference in HP between a Dart 200 cc aluminum head and 991 casting truck head (with 1.74 intake valve) was only 20 hp at the peak. Aint that crazy?
The rest of the dyno graph was identical with torque and HP till the very top of the pull where the airflow challenged heads lost 20 hp. It was pretty damn amazing how such a crappy head could damn near equal the bad boy aluminum heads! The turbos i had back them were stock 87 GN and the ENTIRE combo was very well matched even with junky heads due to turbo size and TPI runner size.

I think it made around mid 500 whp and would run 10.20 to 10.40 in the 1/4 mile. After adding the 100 shot of juice it went 9.75 baby! The race weight of my car and driver is 3660 if it helps you guys calculate hp required to go a 9.99

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

When I got 1.6x, I usually get to around the 10.0 mark with traps in the 137-140mph range.... The few 9 second passes I got were in the 1.5x 60's I believe it was. 9.93, 9.97, 9.86, all with traps in the 139-141 range.

12.5psi was 640whp on a mustang dyno through a very loose converter Th400 trans on my setup...i think my car is fat. Was 3450lb with me in it when all motor/nitrous 383. I thought I only added 50 lbs of turbo stuff but it may be closer to 100-150 for some reason and I even replaced the steel hood with fiberglass...and I put on 10-15lbs so.. I just noticed the front end sits lower than before on same suspension. And I find it harder to push in and out of the garage than before

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Okay, the snow is finally off of the car, and I can finally continue lol. The car was literally buried for the last two months, as New Jersey got bombarded with snow, and the temps were so low that everything turned to ice, and just stood there. Global warming my @ss lol. The tracks (Atco and E-Town) open next weekend, and I'm hoping to get the car there for a naturally aspirated baseline. It was 62-degrees yesterday, and is almost just as warm out today, so I'm trying to get a few things done to it to make it road worthy because there are still a few things missing....

GTA Sammy

iTrader: (1)

You're lucky!
We got dumped on again last night and it feels like -22*F
Hard to work on an engine with no light at the end of the tunnel.
Probably get to drive the car again by around mid to late April.... grrrr

Can't wait to see how your project turns out!!!!

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

How did you get the nuts off the buggered up studs to re-thread them? I kind of went a different way but will someday get back to them but for now, I just left them sitting in a corner.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

So how's the build going? That other thread got me interested in catching up with this...

I'll give you a bit of an update on mine (although mine has been slow going because of work and life getting in the way), I've decided to do a bunch of things that I don't like necessary (that I've even said I'd avoid in this thread) because they're the best parts I have laying around:

• Snagged a cheap set of LT1 heads that I'm converting and porting. Hell, cheap, decent ports, 1.94/1.5 valves from the factory, screw in studs... Don't like it but should make a little more power then the 416's with less work and less weight, and I get to play with the Bridgeport To that end I snagged some LT1 style guideplates (they have a slightly different spacing, and will probably use the springs and Scorpion 1.6 rockers that I have sitting in the basement,
• LT1 heads- logical extension, use the LT1 intake... now where did I put the one that I converted way back when? Can't find it but I have another if I don't by the time I'm ready to run, I wish I could remember how I measured the location and angle of the distributor hole on the first one... all I remember is that it worked, and that was with much more primitive tools than I own now. Anyone have a 94-97 fuel rail crossover tube sitting around? I've got the rails, my wife did something with the tube and I can't find it (probably shouldn't have left it in the living room on the piano, huh?)
• Talked to Cometic- I have my own headgasket PN they listened to what I was doing, thought it was interesting and decided that I shouldn't run any of their standard designs, a couple of days later I have a CAD drawing of _MY_ headgasket in my inbox. 305 bore diameter, large valve reliefs to clear the LT1 Chamber/large valves, custom pattern, .027" thick (wanted to keep quench as tight as possible, feel that's more important than final compression, I'm hoping that opening up the chambers a little and some chamber mods I want to do I'll end up with a compression in the high 8's). BTW- they said that i shouldn't try ordering from summit, they'll mess it up. Then their shipping department sent me the wrong ones...
• I've got some 83pph injectors coming that should keep the engine happy even if I run something like e85 (turns out that the only E85 station in the area is on the way to the track)

BTW, while I had the ear of some Cometic engineers I asked them about the coating thing. They basically said that it's a little bit of truth and A LOT of internet rumor. They recommended that I coat the faces for my application (mostly because they realize that most of us will not get the chance to get their spec'ed RMS finish, in my case, the block is staying in the car, not getting machined), but not to mess with the layers, and didn't seem to like the copper spray, recommended using Hylomar spray (I like that stuff anyway).

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I wanted you guys to hear what the 305 (310) sounds like with the 224/230 camshaft. I decided to go with the Holley HP Dominator for the EFI control, as the self-tuning w/boost will save me loads of time as opposed to burning chip after chip. I plan on ordering that shortly, so the TPI setup is waiting patiently on the shelf. For now though, I slapped on a set of crappy headers (open, no y-pipe), the L69 intake manifold and carb, along with a distributor with vacuum canister, and the stock mechanical fuel pump. Again, this is just so you guys can hear how it sounds with the cam. The carb is completely untuned, and this is a cold start. I wanted to blip the throttle because the engine is VERY responsive, but the neighbors will definitely start complaining. But anyways, here is the idle with that cam installed (sound quality isn't too great, but you'll at least get the idea)....

http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=100_0541.mp4

Drac0nic

Hard to hear over the background noise but it seems fairly smooth. Definitely smoother than I woulda thought. Had a vacuum gauge on it yet? Just morbid curiosity on what it pulls at what RPM. That's a healthy cam for a 350 much less something with 14% less cubes.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I know, its hard to tell from the sound in the video. The carburetor was essentially untouched, the only thing I did was pull the mixture screws out and made a slit in them with a hacksaw so I could grab them with a flat screwdriver and set the idle mixture, raised the fast idle screw a tad, then adjusted the choke. That of course was done to break the cam in. The L69 rods, air bleed, and secondaries weren't touched. The vacuum gauge reads 15" at idle, won't go any higher. Don't want to run it too long without coolant though. It sounds quiet in the video using that camera, but its extremely loud with open headers, and it definitely has lope, but I was expecting a lot more though from what others were suggesting about this cam. Once the Holley EFI control gets here I'll install the TPI setup. The weather is slowly but surely reaching the 70's, so I can start on the intake tubing and Intercooler installation. Already have someone wanting to run me using the carb though, does anyone want to see what this thing will do against a '79 Trans Am 400 w/4-speed at the track before I start working on the Intercooler....?

Drac0nic

this could be interesting, if you have some rods laying around to futz with the Q-jet I'd be really tempted to do it. If you walked him with a 305 I bet that guy would be pissed. 15" is very good. A lot better than I would have expected.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

15" of vacuum @ 1000-RPM in Park, showing around 13" of vacuum in gear. Was talking to Holley about their new HP EFI Dominator, and the features are unreal. Can't wait to get it installed, as I'm very tired of proms. The tuned port injection should do extremely well with it. I'm so tempted to run this guy with the carb until the fuel injection is on, just for the hell of it. I'm even thinking about dynoing it once it's dialed in with the carb lol. I definitely won't be running that cc-quadrajet and L69 intake manifold though, if I do it I'll run that Holley ProJection manifold that I was working on a few pages earlier with a Carter AFB that I had lying around practically forever. Was going to sell the manifold cuz I'm almost finished with it anyways, but might as well see how the worked 305 does with it. I trimmed the divider down some, just need to smooth out the edges and she's finished. The intake ports are enormous....

rustrider73

bring it to nythirdgen dyno day
http://s9.zetaboards.com/nythirdgen/...7269820/1/#new

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

That sounds like a great time! It's so hard for me to make a meet with you guys when it's in Queens, and it would be even harder for me to bring it to Ronkonkoma lol. When the heck are you guys gonna come down to Raceway Park and help represent the F-Body's?

I'm prolly gonna have it dynoed over at Krazy House Customs....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd0gYpQvmso

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

It's officially the first day of spring here in Jersey at 7:00 tonight, and its still freaking freezing outside. Today I'll be pulling that horrid stock brake booster out, and replacing it with a much more reliable one. I already started on the engine bay, as I couldn't take looking at that white and surface rust combo....;

Drac0nic

Are you going hydroboost? That looks a lot better, I sure wish mine looked that good.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Thanks man. I was so sick of the white/blue scheme, and I just wanted to hit it with the black because it looks so much better. Today I pulled the interior and placed it in storage, and went and got about 90% of a donor car's black interior. I got the carpet laid out in the garage, just need to finish vacuuming it, then shampoo. Basically the car is going to be pearl white w/black interior while I run it. I already finished cleaning and installing the rear carpet, along with the black interior pieces that I picked up. It's looking much better than what it was in my opinion. Once I get the front carpet cleaned and installed, the black 4th gen seats will go in....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I thought about it, but I honestly talked myself out of it though. Hey, how did that Edelbrock blow-thru carb work out for you? I converted an AFB for blow-thru a couple of years back but I never used it, then eventually sold it. I have another one lying around though, and I'm toying with the idea of using it for boost w/this motor until the fuel injection goes on because I really don't want to bother myself with a naturally aspirated engine on the dyno. I still have twelve sets of thermoquad nitrophyl floats lying around, as well as the correct needle and seats, and I can have the carb converted in a couple of hours. Hmm....

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

So, what are you going with for booster that's more reliable?

What paint is that in the engine bay? Looks good...

WRT to the carpet, you'd be amazed how good you can make old carpet look with some simple green or similar degreaser and a pressure washer. Carpet/vinyl dye can do wonders also.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

do you plan on running it with full interior? or are you gonna rip everything out and just leave a seat and the dash? is the chasis setup/legal to go 9s?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

The stock booster was badly rusted from sitting, had a bad leak coming from that area when I pressed on the brakes. I fixed one leak, but it didn't do the trick, so I just pulled a newer booster out of an '89 Z28 which was in much better condition and installed it. I used a steam cleaner for the carpet, it came out pretty good. In the engine bay, I lightly sanded down the stock paint in the good areas, but then sanded the surface rust down to bare metal and hit it with prime. I coated the engine bay with four coats of Black Rustoleum using a gun, but I didn't clear coat it though....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Full interior, definitely. The chassis will be good for 10.0 (six point cage), as I'm only looking to touch the nines with the 305, and if I run slighly faster/quicker than 10.0, I will just get warned, but even if I get warned though, it is still mission complete....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Gonna show you guys an extremely cheap alternative for a blow-thru carburetor while I wait for the Holley EFI control. I have a Carter 600 AFB w/manual choke that I am going to convert so I can run the turbo right away, and will show you how easy it is to do. This isn't intended to take anything away from the professional shops that will convert the Holley's for you, because they do an excellent job, this is just for the do it yourselfer who's looking to spend under $100.00, carb included. While I get ready to start documenting it for you guys, I sanded down and painted a non-AC box that I had lying around, and am redoing its' wiring so you won't even be able to see it. Gotta have heat as well as a defogger, those who run at night at the track on the east coast know exactly what I mean....

Disregard that fugly tire and rim, I only use it to move cars back and forth lol....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Engine bay paint is done, newer brake booster is installed, just need to bleed the brakes now. The a/c delete box above isn't going to be used, as it doesn't line up right without whacking the wheel well down a little with a hammer, and I really don't want to do that, so I'll just get a regular 82-92 box off of ebay. Pulled the panel and wipers off of the cowl because I'm going to prime it then paint it white, also gonna start mocking up the turbo headers soon....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not going to bother with the carburetor anymore, as I'm sick of looking at it, just going to focus on installing the turbo headers and the exhaust, and Intercooler for now. The alternator is pissing me off too, as I think I'm going to lower it completely out of sight. When I lift the hood, I just wanna see engine and turbo's, nothing else. I picked up a twin catalytic converter setup from a newer 3rd gen, and I'm going to set it up as a true dual exhaust, should be fairly easy to do. Drivers side downpipe will be tough, but it's been done of course. The converters flow just as good as straight pipe <cough> that's all I'm going to say about them <cough>....

Drac0nic

Are you doing the N10 setup N/A or turbo too? I might be able to see where you're coming from about the carb intake, but as long as the alternator doesn't hit one of the turbos who cares IMO.

Can't wait to see the headers, I think that it will be a lotta fun to see especially since you have this wierd thing called "room" to play with in making them!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Really fell behind with this build, so I'm not even going to bother with natural aspiration anymore. I want to get the turbo's on as soon as possible, and I'm going to start pulling the nose clip off to bolt on the Intercooler. I might have no choice with the alternator though, because the way I'm welding the turbo flanges on the manifolds the wastegate will be right next to it, and I need all the room I can get in that area, especially with the way I'll be running the oil return lines. It'll look much nicer with the alternator out of the way too lol. I also have some floor pan patches to make, because there is no way I am welding a cage to the stock floors, as some areas are very very weak....

Orr89RocZ, could you do me a big favor, can you measure the distance between the turbo flange on your headers to the exhaust port on the cylinder heads on your setup? I need to know how high up in inches you went because I'm really trying to avoid cutting the hood....

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

if your shooting for 9's, i would ditch the dual exhaust idea. too much weight. imo, of course.
with a twin turbo setup adding weight to the car, you will need to be making some huge power for a 305. car will need to be pretty dang light.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I was thinking of running 2 1/2" intermediate pipes just after the catalytic converters exiting just before the rear tires, this way it would save me the weight of the muffler and the tubing that goes over the axle. Would just need to fab up some hangers for them....

Edit: Maybe even use resonators just before they dump....

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

huh, almost looks factory but the factory setup didn't have the nice Y, was that fabbed by someone (I don't seen welds where I'd expect them if someone made it from parts) or is that a flowmaster or similar part that I don't know about?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Good eyes! Here is the Flowmaster ID after the converters (won't be using this part of the exhaust though)....

1987CamaroZ28

liking this build, keep going. I know there are many things in life that make us put our projects on hold. Good for you.

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

if you can pull this off, i will for sure second gues throwing out my 305 for a 400

project89

iTrader: (1)

rob have u read the jy grenade on ttf ? that guy went 9's with a stock jy motor in a firebird theres no reason the stuff u have now cant get u there

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, that's Marty's thread, he posted a few posts up in this page (he's trbo355). I was just working on the exhaust manifolds brazing them, and I'm thinking Diggler has a point, I'm really over-doing it with all of this unnecessary weight. A single 66 should land me a nine second pass, let alone the 76 that I already have, so I'm thinking scrap the twin turbo idea again because that's a lot of weight up front. Especially since it is so tight (not tight in a good way lol) by the brake booster, and squeezing in a downpipe is just going to cause a headache. So just to recap what I'm running engine wise, fully siamesed TPI setup (52mm throttle body), same ported heads from the beginning of this thread (decided against the larger 882's), 224/230 cam and 76 turbo. If it holds, it should get me there....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Thanks man. This winter was nuts, it was one thing after another, but now I'm just focused on getting it done as soon as possible....

If it holds together, it should....

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

i may just send you my car and have you do it for me. lol jk

project89

iTrader: (1)

use the 882's i gave ya theres guys on ttf making over 1000 hp with those heads

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

With what kind of work done to them (who, I haven't spent much time around there for a while)? My worry about this kind of thing with 882's is that they are prone to cracking in some locations in daily driver use, the extra heat from this kind of thing I would think would pretty much make it a given, just a question of how long it will take depending on how much the thing gets driven....

project89

iTrader: (1)

one of the guys that comes to mind drives a twin turbo front engine dragster
ill see if i cant find u some links to a few of the guys runnning those heads
he said alls he had done was some cleanup work on the heads