Tokico Shocks and SLP lower control arms
10-12-2002, 01:14 AM
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Tokico Shocks and SLP lower control arms
Hey guys I was wondering if any of you have used Tokico Premium Shocks and or/ SLP lower control arms? I have a serious case of wheel hop and I was wondering, since I need new shocks, if these shocks along with SLP lower control arms would help at all. I am also on a tight budget, so I can't afford LCA relocators for the car. I really don't want anything welded either. These shocks seem good and affordable. I need something that works with Eibach pro kit lowering springs. Will lower control arms plus two new shocks cure some of this problem?
I have a race with this mustink soon and I know my car is way faster, but ever since my lowering springs I've had wheel hop. I gotta get something that is fast and will do the job. My car has to launch good like it did before the springs.
Also,
I was wondering if I could install the rear shocks now and in about two weeks or so install the front shocks. Is this safe??
Any feedback is greatly appreciated thanks.
I have a race with this mustink soon and I know my car is way faster, but ever since my lowering springs I've had wheel hop. I gotta get something that is fast and will do the job. My car has to launch good like it did before the springs.
Also,
I was wondering if I could install the rear shocks now and in about two weeks or so install the front shocks. Is this safe??
Any feedback is greatly appreciated thanks.
10-12-2002, 10:08 AM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Don't bother with the SLP LCAs. They are stock ones.
Get a pair of Lakewood LCAs, IMHO the best bang for the buck on a street driven car. And, the thing you need the most, is LCA relocation brackets. Right now the rear of your LCAs is probably 2" higher than the front; imagine what happens when you push forward on it.
You hit the gas; the tires hook up. THe rear begins to push forward hard. But since the LCA rear attachment point is higher than the front, that make the rear end want to rotate upward. So it does. It rotates upward far enough to unload the tires, the tires lose traction and begin to spin. Th epushing force goes away. The springs begin to push the rear back down. Presently the rear has moved back down far enough to load the tires, which hook back up. The forward pushing force resumes. The rear end tries to rotate up.... etc. etc. etc., about 5-7 times a second depending on the exact springs, shocks, & tires you have.
Sound familiar? The root cause is the bad suspension design from the factory, aggravated by altering the ride height.
Get a pair of Lakewood LCAs, IMHO the best bang for the buck on a street driven car. And, the thing you need the most, is LCA relocation brackets. Right now the rear of your LCAs is probably 2" higher than the front; imagine what happens when you push forward on it.
You hit the gas; the tires hook up. THe rear begins to push forward hard. But since the LCA rear attachment point is higher than the front, that make the rear end want to rotate upward. So it does. It rotates upward far enough to unload the tires, the tires lose traction and begin to spin. Th epushing force goes away. The springs begin to push the rear back down. Presently the rear has moved back down far enough to load the tires, which hook back up. The forward pushing force resumes. The rear end tries to rotate up.... etc. etc. etc., about 5-7 times a second depending on the exact springs, shocks, & tires you have.
Sound familiar? The root cause is the bad suspension design from the factory, aggravated by altering the ride height.
10-12-2002, 07:31 PM
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This may not be the answer that you're looking for, but as said above: Wheel Hop - Re location brackets - welded on.
Spohn's are about 65$, plus install.
Excellent bang for the buck and did fix my problem.
Spohn's are about 65$, plus install.
Excellent bang for the buck and did fix my problem.
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