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Torque arm, LCA's, SFC's

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Old 01-29-2003, 12:54 AM
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Car: 85 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Anoyone here make their own Torque arm, LCA's, SFC's?

After looking at the prices of tubular LCA's and especially adjustable Torque arms, I have seriously started to consider making my own (adjustable) torque arm using similar materials as most aftermarket units have. I.E. 1.25" OD x .120" wall DOM mild steel tubing, tig welded assembly, 3/8" mild steel mounting plates, GR 8 hardware & urethane bushing.

Questions

1) Has anyone in this forum attempted to make their own, if yes are there sketches or drawings with dimensions available?

2) Does anyone know where to get the Urethane bushing with the 1.25" hole through it for the tubular TA? (I know that Energy sells the stock replacement stuff but not sure about the non stock style bushings)

3) Does anybody know what types of adjustable Rod ends are being used on the typical adjustable torque arms out on the market. (I.E. Grades, thread and nut sizes etc..)

I am still convinced that I can make comporable torque arm(s) for a fraction of the price of a retail unit.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Dans_Zed; 01-30-2003 at 11:50 AM.
Old 01-29-2003, 01:05 PM
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Someone reinforced the stock one by welding 1/4" thick plates. He said he couldn't tell the difference, but I sure it didn't hurt it.....or you could buy one, copy it, then send it back.
Old 01-31-2003, 12:35 PM
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Car: '90 Formula 350
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Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
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I've never seen it done, but I have heard of people adding plates to reinforce the stock one like said earlier. I'm thinking about getting a new a one due to my massive spin. I think I might just get a spohn tq arm, I've read from somewhere that it takes 6+ hours to try to duplicate spohn's design and that's probably knowing what your doing.... which I don't... hehe
Old 02-01-2003, 05:07 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
I built my own torque arm out of 1.25" DOM 1.20 wall tubing. It is 27" long and mounts to a tunnel bracket. I used 3/4" rod end links to connect it to tunnel bracket and rear end bracket. It has a coupler to adjust the lenght (ie;pinion angle) of the torque arm. The front mount has a drop link to allow it to make an arc like the motion of the lower control arms when the suspension travel goes up and down.

I do not have any drawings or pic of it. It looks very similar to the one BMR Fabrication makes except for the front mounting is different. You can make your own if you have a little fabricating and welding experience. I will say it lowered my 60' times from 1.78 to 1.82's down to 1.62 to 1.65's. Being only 27" long it works like a lift bar lifting the body and planting the tires. Give it a try!! Good luck.
Old 02-02-2003, 08:28 PM
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406-Z
How do you find road noise now that your diff is connected solidly to your floorpan?

Roadnoise and drilling out the floor were the two reasons that drew me away from this style of front mounting. I guess it works better then the original style (tranny) mounting arrangement otherwise it probably wouldn't exist on the market.

Some pics of your fabbed parts would be great for a reference.

I'm gonna have to give it a try and just make one based on the measurements of the stock torque arm and designs of the aftermarket offerings (BMR, Edelbrock, Global West etc.)

No disrespect to the aftermarket manufacturers but these welded tubular products (PB, LCA's, TA's) are such a rip off considering that there is little or no engineering or design work behind them, they appear to be worth about $40 of raw material to mass produce, maybe an hour of fab work with an established jig and the selling price is in the $3-600 range?!?

All responses are greatly appreciated!
Old 02-02-2003, 08:44 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
Dan...Road noise is not bad. The car is noisy anyway with 3 1/2" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 2 chamber. I run solid motor mounts as well. I get more harmonics from the exhaust than the drivetrane.
Old 02-03-2003, 12:01 PM
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Car: 85 Z28
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Thanks for the info! Anything additional is always appreciated.
Old 02-18-2003, 11:56 PM
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Car: 85 Z28
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Anyone else with pics or plans??
Old 02-23-2003, 01:56 PM
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Car: 1988 Firebird, 2000 GTP
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" posi, 4.11
I'm also intereted in making my own Torque arm...if it's even possible. I'd like something simple like the stock one, but just so that it will provide better performance like the aftermarket ones. Like was said earlier, these are pretty expencive things. No offense as well, but I just can't afford to buy these things. It would take me years to build a suspension, and that's not even including the tranny/engine that I still need to work on.
Old 02-23-2003, 09:20 PM
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Building your own torque arm is surely possible, as you can see by looking at the design of all the aftermarket ones. Under the fancy powder coating is simply some formed mild steel tubing welded together and some drilled out 3/8" thick mounting plates. I know that's easy to say, because if it's so easy then why doesn't everyone make their own. It's not the simplest thing to do but surely not impossible. Like I said before the price that they are selling for is still not justifiable to me, and that is the only reason why I will make my own. I still haven't heard of anyone with an actual drawing or sketch of one that they made themself. I think I'll have to get one from the boneyard to copy while my car is sleeping.
Old 02-23-2003, 10:15 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
Here is a pic of BMR's torque arm. It is very similar to the one I fabricated. The only major difference is the front mount. I fabricated a tunnel bracket in stead of a mount accross the floor pans. The mount across the floor pan would be much easier than what I fabed.

I will snap a few pics of mine and post them for you to see. I don't have a digital camera so I will have to use the 35mm.
Attached Thumbnails Torque arm, LCA's, SFC's-torquearm.jpg  

Last edited by 406-Z; 02-23-2003 at 10:23 PM.
Old 02-23-2003, 11:42 PM
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Car: 85 Z28
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There is one other design issue with the original TA that most aftermarket arms adressed with a relocated front mount. I would do the same as well because essentially it retains the front section of the torque arm in case of failure (breakage). I read somewhere about an SCCA (or similar circuit type) racer who broke off his torque arm at the front mount (probably a stock piece) while braking heavily into a turn. The arm ended up digging into the pavement and then lifted the back end of the car up until the arm finally snapped in two and threw the car like it got kicked in the a**. Something to keep in mind when making purchasing or installing these arms.

I'll be looking forward to seeing your TA pics 406-Z.
Old 02-24-2003, 07:38 PM
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What about using jegs torque arm setup for $259 and putting on end links , then it would be adjustable.
I have seen on e-bay ones for $185 and they are the Mac torque arm , they say they are for a 93-97 but I think at that price you would be saving from not making the bar and mounting and so all you need is to put the end links on to make them adjstable.
These BMR , MAC and Jegs arms are all shorter an idea from the Trac-Link setup that Global West makes that costs over $500 and is winning races at SCCA events. I think Steve Spohn is using shorter length arms on the newer camaro 93 and up torque arms
Old 02-25-2003, 09:14 PM
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Car: 89 IROC
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homemade LCAs

I made may own lca's. I used 1" tubing, 15 5/8" long, i.d. must about .625". I had a machinist-friend thread the tubing for rod ends 3/4" x 3/4". He then made the adapters to mount them. They turned out great. You would think I bought them. Road noise is my only complaint. It's tolerable but not to my liking. I have around $50 in them and I didn't pay anything for machine work. It would not be worth it if you had to pay an hourly rate for machining. I would not go this route again. If you use a poly bushings all you need is a wire feed welder which I have. If anyone is interested in these, I would sell them.
Old 03-06-2003, 10:28 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
Dan...Here is a few pics of my torque arm. Not the best of quality for being under the car on stands. It would help if I had a digital cam. It's on the wish list!!
Attached Thumbnails Torque arm, LCA's, SFC's-ta001.jpg  

Last edited by 406-Z; 03-06-2003 at 10:44 PM.
Old 03-06-2003, 10:29 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
Two more shots.
Attached Thumbnails Torque arm, LCA's, SFC's-ta002.jpg  

Last edited by 406-Z; 03-06-2003 at 10:44 PM.
Old 03-06-2003, 11:01 PM
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406-Z That looks like what I just bought.

If that is what I think you have, I just bought the same set up.
I bought the Spohn 4th gen shorter torque arm for my 3rd gen. and of course will set the mount further back , also my mount is about twice the length, might be a problem , might not ...
did you make the mount and the arm.
the mount looks just like a Mac.
Is that what I am seeing??
Old 03-08-2003, 12:44 AM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
John, what you are seeing is not what you bought because this is a one off piece. I fabricated it a little over 4 years ago. I got the idea from a ladder bar set up. Yes it is a short arm, measuring about 26 to 27 inches if memory serves me correct. I have fabed several other pieces on this car, the exhaust being another in the pic.
Old 03-09-2003, 12:08 AM
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Nice work on both items 406-Z!
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