slowTA

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to find the source of a really bad buzzing sound that is driving me crazy. It starts around 25 to 30 mph and by the time I get to highway speeds the floorboards are vibrating.

I was thinking it was the passenger side bearings untill I pulled them apart and everything seemed OK. Those bearings don't even have 100 miles on them anyway. The reason why I looked at the passenger side first is because I would be able to turn to the right (unloading the passenger side) and the noise would stop while the weight was on the left. So just for fun I take apart the driver side (older bearings, unknown age) and although the races seemed to have 'some' signs of age, it wasn't anything that made me pick my jaw up off of the ground. That is when I noticed the condition of the spindle (see the pic.)

The bottom of the spindle seams to be worn pretty well, (car has 144k miles.) I can actually feel where the bearing rides on the spindle. So I throw the inner bearing on the spindle and is seems to be nice and snug with no signs of any wobble at all.

So I guess my question is... would this cause that bad of a vibration, or should I look elsewhere? The passenger side spindle has a very similar wear pattern, but I can not feel it like I do on the driver's side.

boscheejosh

Yes, definitely your spindles are shot. This is probably because the bearing were set up too tight. The bearing will not show wear, when the bearings heat up and the roller expand they lock the two races together and start spinning the outer. The outer race will wear into the spindle like that and cause your vibration. I kind of sets up harmonics for the vibration. I did this also on my 86 Camaro. Bearing do need to be set up loose!!!

Hunter Motorsports

Agree that the spindle is now shot. The reasoning stated above however I disagree with.

It is not because the bearingd were "set up too tight" - a SMALL amount of preload is nesscsary to keep all the bearings aligned properly and running smoothly. This is a result of a siezed bearing - probably old and the lubricant broken down - and when the bearing siezes - well something has to keep rotating, and the inner race which is the part that rides on the spindle itself starts to rotate and very quickly galls the spindle like that.

Wheel bearings on our cars need to be re-packed with fresh grease every time brake pads are replaced for street cars - and more often on race cars. Bearing adjustment is also important - like I said - just a small amount of preload. On older cars the cassel nut does not always provide a fine enough adjustment - so I recommend upgrading to the 92 style nut and retainer. See your G.M. dealer for the parts. When replacing wheel bearings re-set preload after the first 500 or so miles (after a couple of tanks of gas) this is because the new bearings will take a set and loosen up a bit.

Use good quality high temperature wheel bearing grease - and if you race use the Red Line CV-2 grease. I have found nothing better than that for extreme duty - high temperature applications.

MrDude_1

ive never heard of the 92 being diffrent.....


can you share any more info on it?

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

this is what I was affraid of. The bearing in there now is not seized, I checked that. Maybe a previous bearing was seized in there.

I have never enjoyed setting these bearings at all. Here is what I normally do, plesae let me know if I am wrong. I get the bearings all lubed up and put everything together. I tighten the castle nut with an adjustable wrench until it gets nice and snug. Loosen it, then make it finger tight. Of course this never lines up correctly with the holes in the spindle. So I then pick up the adjustable again and turn it until I can find a good hole to slip thecotter pin through. By this time I am close to where the nut was when I tightened it the first time!!! I know that there are multiple holes in the spindle to choose from, they just wont line up until it is tight.

So whats the story with the newer castle nut? I've been using Valvoline synthetic grease but just ran out, so I'll look for the red line now.

MrDude_1

i do somthing SIMILAR but i err on the side of loose... and i also spin the wheel several times in both directions....

the result, even when erring on the side of loose, is almost zero side to side movement, and it rolls nice and smooth.


i also use the valvoline syn stuff.. mostly because we have about 2 cases of it.

Hunter Motorsports

The 82-91 cars use a cassel type nut and the cotter pin goes through the slots in the nut. The 92 cars use a thin nut and a seperate retainer that grabs the nut and has slots in it for the cotter pin to go through. Much more adjustable - you basically set the nut where you need it and put the retainer on to line up with the hole for the cotter pin. 1992 only got this setup - and I was not aware of it until I worked on a 92 car. When I saw it - I ordered the parts from G.M. and upgraded my car to use that setup.

G.M. has all the parts - just make sure you specify "nut and retainer for 1992 Camaro/Fireburd"

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I spin the rotor too. Forgot to say that. I really don't notice much of a difference when I spin the rotor, but if I do feel or see it stop as I tighten, then I know I've gone too far and back it off a bit.

But back to the topic of bad vibrations... I'll be checking the driveshaft and other stuff too. Can you tell I really don't want to replace these spindles?

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

So does anyone know the correct diameter of the spindle where the bearings ride, or should I just take the inside diameter of the bearings?

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

I was only able to find the retainer for the '92 setup. It was made by Doorman and it is made of very thin sheet metal. I'm just wondering if the GM version is any thicker?