Which SFC's to go with?
#1
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Which SFC's to go with?
I've seen two types. One like spohn's where they weld to the skirts of the car and one where it just has a long bar that connects the back subframe to the front. Any advantages over the other? Also, which brand is better to get. I know spohn makes some damn good products but I heard thier SFC's are smaller compared to others. Thanks.
#2
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I think you heard "smaller" in one recent post about exhaust clearance. They aren't small, I'll tell you that. On one side, they do get thinner to allow for some clearances, but this barely an issue.
From what I've seen through everyone's posts here and my own experiences, Spohn is hands-down the way to go on a street car. You may have your car setup for street/strip or street/auto-x or whatever, but if you're trying to stay within some kind of close-to-stock form, then go with Spohn. They're very strong, do not hinder ground clearance, and do not hinder stock exhaust routing or brake/fuel line routing. People argue back and forth whether it's "better" to directly connect the subframes like Alston or not, but this is really a moot point unless you're pushing a hell of a lot of hp and torque. At that far of a point, you're looking at some mean custom exhaust work and custom frame support (roll cage, etc) if you want it done right. I'm talking like 9 second cars and faster before this makes a difference.
From what I've seen through everyone's posts here and my own experiences, Spohn is hands-down the way to go on a street car. You may have your car setup for street/strip or street/auto-x or whatever, but if you're trying to stay within some kind of close-to-stock form, then go with Spohn. They're very strong, do not hinder ground clearance, and do not hinder stock exhaust routing or brake/fuel line routing. People argue back and forth whether it's "better" to directly connect the subframes like Alston or not, but this is really a moot point unless you're pushing a hell of a lot of hp and torque. At that far of a point, you're looking at some mean custom exhaust work and custom frame support (roll cage, etc) if you want it done right. I'm talking like 9 second cars and faster before this makes a difference.
#5
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Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
From what I heard, you can install Spohn and Alston SFCs without having them interfere with each other.
So if you can't decide which ones to get, just grab both and have the best of both worlds.
So if you can't decide which ones to get, just grab both and have the best of both worlds.
#6
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L 350 V8 TPI
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
My Spohns have absolutely no clearance problems, and the car feels more "together" when i go up driveways or hit a few bumps here and there. Plus the reassurance in your mind that you know that u have a nice full frame now is always good to have instead of that uni-body POS!
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#8
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Pros: no stitch welding required along the side-easier install; have cups at each end to weld the frame rails onto; also bolt in.
Cons: No stitch welding along the sides- stronger IMO; cups may not fit right and you'll have to mod them to fit tighter.
I like the Spohn SFCs better but it's a "harder" install as there are more welds to be made. A few others and myself are having issues with the Alstons we bought:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=240731
Ed
Cons: No stitch welding along the sides- stronger IMO; cups may not fit right and you'll have to mod them to fit tighter.
I like the Spohn SFCs better but it's a "harder" install as there are more welds to be made. A few others and myself are having issues with the Alstons we bought:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=240731
Ed
#9
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Originally posted by ebmiller88
Pros: no stitch welding required along the side-easier install; have cups at each end to weld the frame rails onto; also bolt in.
Cons: No stitch welding along the sides- stronger IMO; cups may not fit right and you'll have to mod them to fit tighter.
I like the Spohn SFCs better but it's a "harder" install as there are more welds to be made. A few others and myself are having issues with the Alstons we bought:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=240731
Ed
Pros: no stitch welding required along the side-easier install; have cups at each end to weld the frame rails onto; also bolt in.
Cons: No stitch welding along the sides- stronger IMO; cups may not fit right and you'll have to mod them to fit tighter.
I like the Spohn SFCs better but it's a "harder" install as there are more welds to be made. A few others and myself are having issues with the Alstons we bought:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=240731
Ed
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by CaysE
Two more cons: Loss of ground clearance and dual cat/aftermarket exhaust routing issues.
Two more cons: Loss of ground clearance and dual cat/aftermarket exhaust routing issues.
I didnt notice much for ground clearance loss, nor did I have any problems with my aftermarket exhaust.
#11
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Even 1/8th of an inch loss of clearance on these cars is a lot. It's just my opinion though and why I went with Spohn. I'm sure you could get the Alstons installed and then get custom exhaust routing done without a problem.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by CaysE
Even 1/8th of an inch loss of clearance on these cars is a lot. It's just my opinion though and why I went with Spohn. I'm sure you could get the Alstons installed and then get custom exhaust routing done without a problem.
Even 1/8th of an inch loss of clearance on these cars is a lot. It's just my opinion though and why I went with Spohn. I'm sure you could get the Alstons installed and then get custom exhaust routing done without a problem.
#16
Kenny Browns. Nothing less.
Are they just like the picture here, at the top??:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=6&pcid=36
If so they look extremely similar to the proven Spohns with the extra bars crossing in towards the center.
What seems to be better about them is the large cups cradling the rear lower control arm area.
Any installed pics? I'd like to see how they fit.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
i have alstons and im not very happy with them.
i have alstons and im not very happy with them.
#18
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
Do the Kenny Browns cause any clearance issues including with a 3" exhaust system? I really want to see a pic of them installed also because they look like the strongest or at least beefiest SFCs out there.
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Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
Here are some pics. My car was a t-top car and it was rock solid. Anyone thats ridden in it will tell you the same. I had custom duals routed in the stock locale and the subframes still fit great.
Last edited by No4NJunk; 05-25-2004 at 08:49 AM.
#23
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Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
They are bare metal when they come. I undercoated them and then undercoated the whole underside of the car. Those pictures were taken after we had snow a few years ago. The white stuff is sand and salt.
#24
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Screw those damn Alstons.
My issues are straight forward I just had to look past the $200 and a weekend spent under the car to see that the SFC's are GARBAGE! I've had my SFC's on my 91 Formula for about 4 years now. They were one of the very first modifications I performed on the car and the installation reflects the abilities I had at the time. The bottom line is that they DID NOT FIT CORRECTLY out of the box. Now I would say that my skills are improved enough that I could modify them to fit properly. However, I don't feel that for $150 for some tubing, sheet metal, and powder coating, I should be required to be a skilled metal worker. In my honest opinion I think they should fit right the first time, without any modification.
The result of the fitment problem is a nasty clunking from the STOCK dual cat exhaust hitting the SFC's. It varies from a constant clunk every time the engine turns over to an occasional clunk when going over dips/bumps in the road. Adjusting the cat hanger and y-pipe-manifold connections makes little difference.
I bolted the SFC's to the body, then had them fully welded. I noticed no change in performance, creaks, rattles, door closing, etc. This was in a hardtop car with stress cracks in the roof from body twist.
The ground clearance issue is the least of my complaints, but no modifications would have prevented this since its a design flaw. They bottom out on bumps in the road, access covers in gas station parking lots, misc garbage on the interstate, etc.
They might as well be bare metal since the powder coating got scratched up pretty quickly from normal use of the car.
BTW this is a nearly stock, stock ride height, 91 Formula...
My issues are straight forward I just had to look past the $200 and a weekend spent under the car to see that the SFC's are GARBAGE! I've had my SFC's on my 91 Formula for about 4 years now. They were one of the very first modifications I performed on the car and the installation reflects the abilities I had at the time. The bottom line is that they DID NOT FIT CORRECTLY out of the box. Now I would say that my skills are improved enough that I could modify them to fit properly. However, I don't feel that for $150 for some tubing, sheet metal, and powder coating, I should be required to be a skilled metal worker. In my honest opinion I think they should fit right the first time, without any modification.
The result of the fitment problem is a nasty clunking from the STOCK dual cat exhaust hitting the SFC's. It varies from a constant clunk every time the engine turns over to an occasional clunk when going over dips/bumps in the road. Adjusting the cat hanger and y-pipe-manifold connections makes little difference.
I bolted the SFC's to the body, then had them fully welded. I noticed no change in performance, creaks, rattles, door closing, etc. This was in a hardtop car with stress cracks in the roof from body twist.
The ground clearance issue is the least of my complaints, but no modifications would have prevented this since its a design flaw. They bottom out on bumps in the road, access covers in gas station parking lots, misc garbage on the interstate, etc.
They might as well be bare metal since the powder coating got scratched up pretty quickly from normal use of the car.
BTW this is a nearly stock, stock ride height, 91 Formula...
#26
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Originally posted by camaro05
I wish I would have seen this a few days agao. I just ordered them on friday.
I wish I would have seen this a few days agao. I just ordered them on friday.
#27
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Car: Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 with stage 3
SFC's from Competition Engineering.
I ordered mine from Summit. The instructions were straight forward, but for get the factory exhaust.. I Had to get true duals run along the outside of the connectors, there was no room for mufflers, so i have to order bullet mufflers... BTW dont let Race Related in Florida put on you sfc's. He doesnt work on F-bodys, he told me this after he did the installation..
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I hope they stop all the squeaking. that is mainly what I bought them for and to help stop the body flex. it feels really crappy.
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Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
I'm surprised no one is using the Global West SFC's. IMHO, these are the best and my preferred choice. I got a good deal on the Alstons, so that's what I currently have waiting to go on the car.
However, if my Alston's give me problems during install, I'll pitch them and go with Global West.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=6&pcid=36
However, if my Alston's give me problems during install, I'll pitch them and go with Global West.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=6&pcid=36
Last edited by BretD 88GTA; 06-02-2004 at 01:55 PM.
#33
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Car: 1982 camaro (13.063 @ 105.61mph)
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: T5 with a 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by Trans Am#5
The fit perfectly and don't cause any clearence issues. I am always suprised by how few have them....I may be the only one around here.
The fit perfectly and don't cause any clearence issues. I am always suprised by how few have them....I may be the only one around here.
#34
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Dr BBS
just receive my set of hotchkis today Can't wait to put them on... Maybe this weekend if I can find a little bit of time
just receive my set of hotchkis today Can't wait to put them on... Maybe this weekend if I can find a little bit of time
#35
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Car: '85 Camaro
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
So do you get the SFCs and fit the exhaust around them, or get the exhaust and fit the SFCs?
Which ones literally connect the sub-frames, and where do they connect?
From looking underneath my car I would like a bar right by the rocker panel that angles forward to the front of the sub-frame, a bar that goes straight back from the rear of the front sub-frame, and a couple of diagonal bars from about the middle to the points closest to the wheel wells. I still haven't seen the rear subframe yet to understand where all of this stuff would connect.
What grade steel is used? Is it cold or hot rolled? How thick should it be?
My sub-frames look kind of beat-up from jacking up the car and appear to have holes stamped in them. Should I get some plate steel to firm them up? Should I seam weld the rocker panels?
Doesn't this have to be done on a jig so the car doesn't get a torsional pre-load?
Thanks,
Jason
Which ones literally connect the sub-frames, and where do they connect?
From looking underneath my car I would like a bar right by the rocker panel that angles forward to the front of the sub-frame, a bar that goes straight back from the rear of the front sub-frame, and a couple of diagonal bars from about the middle to the points closest to the wheel wells. I still haven't seen the rear subframe yet to understand where all of this stuff would connect.
What grade steel is used? Is it cold or hot rolled? How thick should it be?
My sub-frames look kind of beat-up from jacking up the car and appear to have holes stamped in them. Should I get some plate steel to firm them up? Should I seam weld the rocker panels?
Doesn't this have to be done on a jig so the car doesn't get a torsional pre-load?
Thanks,
Jason
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