JungleMan

OK, so ever since I did my rear end swap back in December I've noticed this noise whenever I turn a certain way...never bothered me much until lately, when I just was tired of hearing it and decided to find it.

Well I found that this seems to be the problem (see attached image), this is on the driver side of the car, i believe this is the lower control arm but not sure. Anyways, when the car is shaken from side to side, the black part seems to move back and forth-- almost as if the hole that the bolt goes through is too big, or something. SO basically the whole rod moves back and forth and isn't tightly connected.

Can someone help me figure out
- what this thing is called
- what exactly needs to be replaced
- a guideline for how to do it? I have replaced the whole rear end in the past but I'd rather not drop and reinstall the whole thing if I don't have to.

Thanks

JungleMan

Oh, forgot the image, sorry

SLAYER6669

iTrader: (1)

That's you're Panhard Bar.. Not exactly sure what could be wrong with it short of a worn bushing maybe?

JungleMan

OK, panhard bar, thanks! I guess the first thing I'm going to try is swapping out the bushing. I looked it up and I can grab a new set for about $15.

Now, as for replacing that bushing...it seems to me that the rear is also supported by the shocks, so I could basically just unbolt right where the picture is, put in the new bushing and bolt it back up? Or is there more to it that I'm missing?

I'd prefer to spend as little time on this as possible...

Thanks.

paulmoore

That is the panhard bar. It is what controls the side to side movement of the rear axle when going around turns and keeps it centrally located. Either the bolt is not tight enough, or the rubber bushing is wasted. When you did your axle swap, did you tighten everything up with the car still in the air? It is a common mistake. Any bushing on any suspension part should only be tightened with the weight of the car sitting at ground level. If you tighten up bushings with the car in the air, and then lower the car down, you stand a good chance of tearing up the bushing. If I could recommend something, you are better off getting an aftermarket pahnard bar with poly bushings that are greaseable. Just my

90Formula-X-F

I had the clunk issue with my panhard. I took my 1/2" impact and tightened the helk out of it and it stopped the clunk. Fuel pump change and the clunck came back. Tightened extremely tight again. Noise gone.......

JungleMan

Thanks for the tips...yes, I did tighten everything with it still in the air. I'll break out my air ratchet tomorrow and try tightening it up while on the ground. If that doesn't do it (which I don't imagine it will), new bushing time.

I really don't want to shell out the money for a new panhard bar but do you think I'll really need one?

SLAYER6669

iTrader: (1)

I'm selling a spohn tubular panhard bar with poly bushings if you're interested And no its not really "needed" but the poly bushings are nicer than rubber..

JungleMan

Can't I just get poly bushings for my existing panhard bar? I found these which seem to be what I'm looking for:
http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/inc/...l?v=1&pid=5635

"Installing Energy's Suspensions HYPER-FLEX? performance polyurethane bushings will make...."

SLAYER6669

iTrader: (1)

Not sure, someone else will answer that I'm sure.. I think the point of the tubular one is it's a little stronger than the stock one.. Either way it's not a huge necessity to replace ahead of other suspension parts IMO..

SLAYER6669

iTrader: (1)

Yep those are poly bushings. Also check out you're local auto parts stores, I think advance, autozone and pep boys all sell energy suspension bushings now.. They may be cheaper in store than spending money on shipping.. worth a shot.. Not sure if they stock the panhard bar one's though..

The spohn bar also has grease fittings on it so you can regrease them easier..

90Formula-X-F

This a case hardeded bolt. An Air rachet won't even come close to tightening in up enough.. Get a breaker bar on it and tighten it up good... I doubt you'll break it but if you did your not out anything but a bolt. I have not hurt mine and I've laid into it hard.

Oh and replace the whole thing instead of rebush it. those bushing don't install that easily.

JungleMan

Well that shop just happens to be pretty close to my hosue and I couldn't find the right part on AutoZone...but anyways

I'll consider replacing the panhard bar since I need an adjustable one for lowering anyway don't i? But anyway, what's difficult about installing a bushing? It looks pretty easy to me.

Also, whether i'm installing the bushing or a new panhard bar, do I just simply unbolt at the point where the pic was taken (and the opposite end if i'm putting a new bar on) and rebolt, or is there more I have to disassemble?

paulmoore

An adjustable panhard bar isn't necessary if you are only dropping about a inch or so but it is good to have. Any time you lower the car the rear axle will want to shift to one side. The adjustable panhard will allow you to center the axle as best as possible. You don't even have to put the car up in the air to replace it. Just unbolt it from the rear end bracket and the body bracket and put the new one in.

CrazyHawaiian

Cheapest fix is to just do the bushings. Either rubber or poly will make the noise go away, right one for you depends on how you use the car. Bushings usually need to be pressed in, you could also use a vice. But I've never done the bushings on a panhard bar so I'm not sure how they install. When I work on my car I like to leave it in the air so I can get under it and grab parts of it to leverage myself when tightening things back up (always using a torque wrench). You can simulate a loaded suspension by leaving the chassis on jackstands, and using a floorjack on the rearend diff, lift it until the chassis barely lifts off the stands. Then if the floorjack fails you still have the stands as backup. This method of using the floorjack to load the suspension and jackstands as backups seems to work great for me and allows me to install stuff while still under the car. I also use this method when doing front a-arms.

90Formula-X-F

The reality here is you have a rattle that apeared after you had it apart. Make sure the right bolt is in it, shank diameter... Comare it to the other side. if it is put it in there and tighten the living p**s out of it and your done. I know this because....
30 years experiance, G.M. factory trained, ASE mastertech and I've seen not only personally on my own car but others too..