cali92RS

Im in the process of installing a 9" rear and connecting it to a Spohn Adj. torque arm. The TA has two sets of mounting point, and i have it currently attached to the drivers side, but things just arent lining up properly, ie the drivers side LCA and the yoke is in contact with my exhaust. Would installing the torque arm using the other set of holes alleviate this problem?

v6#21

Ken, My pinion yoke comes into contact with my exhaust also when the car is jacked up and the axle drops out from under the chassis ride height.

When the car is on all 4's and ast normal ride height it will never hit the yoke onto the exhaust, yet it will when the car is jacked off the ground.
Hope that info helps

Dean

cali92RS

That does help with one of my questions Dean...
But it still is cocked about 1-1.5" to the rear on the drivers side....my passengers side LCA is attached, but the drivers side cant, and thats making me wonder if i have it attached to the right set of TA holes.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

You have to use the inner most holes for the 9". That is what they are there for.

cali92RS

Im not sure what you mean by the inner most holes. There's 2 sets of holes, drivers side holes and passenger side holes.

I think i may have found the problem, it seems the torque arm, for some reason is about 1" too long. Is there any way i can shorten it? I was thinking of I can loosen the bottom bolt (circled)on the front mount and rotate it back (in the direction of the arrow), it would shorten it enough.
What do you think??

Kat

iTrader: (4)

1:The ones towards the drivers side. The ones that are in the middle of the bracket.

2: Length doesn't matter, but if you want to mess with it you can turn the solid rod ends in a few turns on the rear bracket. As long as you make equal turns in you'll be fine. IIRC the adjuster has it out 4-5 turns from the shop.

v6#21

Also Ken, make sure you are not tightening the two large bolts that hold the torquearm to the rearend until you have the LCA's attached. This will allow the torqre arm to not kink to the rearon one side of the car making the wheelbase longer or shorter on the opposite side of the car when the first LCA is attached. Even then you have to kind of (carefully) kick the rear axle into position with a little persuation from your foot to get the front mount to swivel enough forward or back so the 2nd LCA attachment can be made.

After both are on, then put a jack under the rear diff and jack the axle up into the chassis at aprox ride height (no springs installed yet) and then tighten and touque the LCA's and torque arm bolts.


ps- this whole assembly alignment is so much easier if you have adjustable length LCA's (less kicking to align is then required). You simply adjust the LCA till the mount holes line up and slip the bolts in. Then you simply read just the LCA to its proper length using a tape measure to get both sides the same length from bolt to bolt (good starting reference, then an "very Good" alignment shop can and will adjust the rear thrust angle of the car so any doglegging under hard acceleration is eliminated. This can not be adjusted out if necessary with non-adj LCA's)

cali92RS

Well, whats happening to me is the front mount is not swiveling at all (as i tried to illustrate with my kindergarden like artistic skills above). Bolts torqued down too tight there?? Not lubed enough??

Also, I do have adj. LCAs, but i didnt want to mess with the current length of those because right now they are equal length.

Thanks Dean and Kat for the suggestions...keep em coming

cali92RS

Well, the bolt I circled was torqued like a *****. I loosened it up to where it was allowed to swivel, and that pretty much solved that problem. This weekend, im gonna tighten everything up, adjust everything, bleed the brakes, and that should be it.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

Cool

Just make sure that bottom bolt is tight enough not to make noise but loose enough to move freely